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Yamaha CR-1020 restoration

quick one regarding the mod for TR712 and TR715.

I will do something in this fashion:

trannies.jpg
credit: @Oilmaster

Do i need to use special wires? (heat resistant?)

What can i use to insulate the trannies from the chassis?

Thanks!
 
esteboune said:
Oh no...

It seems that my predecessor applied super glue on the knobs...
I manage to remove most of them except for one.

I am afraid to damage the selector switch.

Even my little assistant is helpless!

Click to expand...

the knob is still there, no way to move it...
to be honest I am quite pissed off with the person that glued it.

In addition, I am very pissed off with myself!!!

I probably applied too much strength on this knob to try to remove it and as a result, the selector switch is malfunctioning.

I applied a signal on the AUX input, sine wave 1Vpp

The good news, I can trace it back at the Volume pot level.
The bad news, changing the selector switch position does not kill the signal.

I tried with Tuner and Tape, with the same result.

In conclusion, it seems that the selector switch conducts all the incoming signals at once.

then I will have to change it...

But how can I remove it ?!

options:

1. unsolder the selector switch and try to dismantle it ?!
2. sacrifice the paddle (saw) to remove the faceplate ?!
3. any other idea ?!

your help is much appreciated!
 
esteboune said:
how would you remove the paddle? gently saw it?
Click to expand...
Make sure the setscrew is backed off the shaft. Heat up the paddle with a heat gun and twist it CW while pulling -- Try to get it to twist. Keep turning it CW even beyond the physical stop.Either the shaft will break or the glue will break..
 
I am more and more thinking about changing the entire tone control board.

The Bass pot is not original as well.

 
Hmmm.... The Bass control is not suppose to be a paddle...

yamaha_cr_1020-3.jpg
 
avionic said:
Hmmm.... The Bass control is not suppose to be a paddle...

yamaha_cr_1020-3.jpg
Click to expand...

that is correct.
It seems that the replacement pot had a different shaft that did not fit with the original tone control knob.
Some kind of epoxy was applied to make the shaft round.
 
Hello
Quick update

Recap is done...

* E cap board
* Power board
* 2 x board

Re-assembly, Ok
Test with DBT, Ok
Relay clicks
Test Sound, Power Amp, Ok
Test Sound, Pre-Amp to Power Amp, Ok

As expected the Input selector switch is malfunctioning and will have to be replaced.
Damn glue!
 
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