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Yet another AR XA rebuild thread

Bkphoto said:
When in doubt do what they did....


But, now that I think about it a while you might need a separate ground after your mod...
Click to expand...
I did add a separate ground but after this photo was taken. Recommend separate versus one of the rcas.
 
Efver said:
What sort of mods have been done to your table, @Carbon13 ? If dont mind me asking
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Full thread of mine here: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/arxa-restoration-where-to-start.843753/

I did a new plinth, refinished top plate, armwand swap and rewire, rebuilt motor, polished main shaft ball end and crosshatched bearing well. Just added new switch and caps too when I did motor.

What I didn't do was the mass loaded subchassis and pulley, springs/perches, nor the sapphire cup bearings. Even still, I sold an Oracle deck that just can't compete with this.

And...I just snagged an ARXB and plan on going full out on it!
 
Nice job on your turntable @Carbon13
Could you explain the process of crossharching the bearings well a bit further? Have been pondering on how to do that.
 
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Please excuse the off topic question but I was interested in the idea of the foam under an open plinth that one of you “AR guys” had talked about, was thinking about using this idea with my denon project....does it work or is it a fugasi....? Again I apologize off topic question...
 
I have read about placing a small mat or cloth under the open plinth, on the shelf/ table the turntable is placed on. Is this the same principle that you are refering to?
 
Bkphoto said:
Please excuse the off topic question but I was interested in the idea of the foam under an open plinth that one of you “AR guys” had talked about, was thinking about using this idea with my denon project....does it work or is it a fugasi....? Again I apologize off topic question...
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it’s a bit hard to see but I have two layers of 3/4” foam here. They don’t touch the suspension and I believe do clean up the sound.

2EFF677F-2358-4966-91A2-4311A8A223A0.jpeg
 
My motor is getting really hot after about 20 minutes of running. It's the Haydon 1.5 watts. I have lubricated the motor by dropping oil down the shaft. I have replaced the capacitors with new ones with the same values. The motor runs freely and starts quick. Any ideas what I can try next? It gets so hot that I can't hold it in my hand. PXL_20201111_191012123.jpg
 
Efvergren said:
My motor is getting really hot after about 20 minutes of running. It's the Haydon 1.5 watts. I have lubricated the motor by dropping oil down the shaft. I have replaced the capacitors with new ones with the same values. The motor runs freely and starts quick. Any ideas what I can try next? It gets so hot that I can't hold it in my hand. View attachment 2031844
Click to expand...


Your in Europe correct? There needs to be the proper circuit for the 120Volt motor.

Not sure if anyone here has that info, if not try a step down transformer.

Athanasios
 
For what I understand, the AR XA was sold around the world and had the same motor everywhere, but it had different cap values. Mine for exampel, is a AR XA Universal, meaning it has two pairs of both capacitors and a switch to go between 120V / 220V. In my case I have made the wire scheme simple by removing the 120/220 switch, got rid of the caps suited for US market and replaced the old valued capacitors used for 220V with new ones with the same value. I have not checked how accurate it runs, but I'm guessing it keeps accurate rpm. The difference between 60Hz and 50Hz cycles in the mains will affect the speed, therefor the size of the pulley differs on where the turntable was sold. The AR XA Universal came with two pulleys, one for 60Hz and another for 50Hz. I just have the one for 50Hz which is suited for Europe where I live.

I have checked the coils with an Ohm-meter and It shows correct values.
 
Efvergren said:
For what I understand, the AR XA was sold around the world and had the same motor everywhere, but it had different cap values. Mine for exampel, is a AR XA Universal, meaning it has two pairs of both capacitors and a switch to go between 120V / 220V. In my case I have made the wire scheme simple by removing the 120/220 switch, got rid of the caps suited for US market and replaced the old valued capacitors used for 220V with new ones with the same value. I have not checked how accurate it runs, but I'm guessing it keeps accurate rpm. The difference between 60Hz and 50Hz cycles in the mains will affect the speed, therefor the size of the pulley differs on where the turntable was sold. The AR XA Universal came with two pulleys, one for 60Hz and another for 50Hz. I just have the one for 50Hz which is suited for Europe where I live.

I have checked the coils with an Ohm-meter and It shows correct values.
Click to expand...
I also have a Universal with the US pulley and cap values and it runs at 33.3.
 
Carbon13 said:
Check halfway down this thread for marc morins post that starts with "do not remove..."

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/ar-xa-haydon-motor-runs-hot.685390/
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link! I will definitely not try to remove the shaft.
Im not sure of what part to remove first inside the motor to assemble it enough to be able to clean and polish. Maybe I should start with whats seems to be the clear rubber sealing? (Im trying to mark it in the picture below).

haydon_motor_opened.jpg

Or maybe I should try to remove the top plate of the motor?

Br
Carl Efvergren
 
It's been a while since I did this and my memory is not great on these things. But reading Marcs post, I would get a large socket (bigger than the magnet assembly) and put it under the motor. Then gently tap the shaft (with a block of wood as buffer) until the whole assembly comes out. I think the washers and bushing come off during this process if I recall correctly. The set bushing holds the shaft in place and will tap off. I'm sure Stuartb or Hose53 do this procedure all the time and will chime in if I'm off the marc ;) here.
 
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