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Yet another AR XA rebuild thread

Carbon13 said:
It's been a while since I did this and my memory is not great on these things. But reading Marcs post, I would get a large socket (bigger than the magnet assembly) and put it under the motor. Then gently tap the shaft (with a block of wood as buffer) until the whole assembly comes out. I think the washers and bushing come off during this process if I recall correctly. The set bushing holds the shaft in place and will tap off. I'm sure Stuartb or Hose53 do this procedure all the time and will chime in if I'm off the marc ;) here.
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Like putting the motor like this (over the hole) and tapping on the spindle?
PXL_20201117_172929659.jpg
 
Yup. Except I would find something that supports all around the motor but allows for the magnet assemble to go through. That's why a large socket is ideal.
 
Carbon13 said:
Yup. Except I would find something that supports all around the motor but allows for the magnet assemble to go through. That's why a large socket is ideal.
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Thanks slot!
I have now managed to open the motor and I have cleaned it and lubricated it with oil.
It was a bit tricky to put it together and get the washer at the right place. If it's to high up on the spindle it gets to much play and if it's to fit the spindle won't turn.
I'm now letting the motor spin without the housing and filling oil on the washer housing.
First impression is that it's still getting really hot :/
PXL_20201117_191105899.MP.jpg
 
Efvergren said:
I finally managed to get the cap of the motor. But what's next? View attachment 2036969
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'

When I pulled my cover off the motor split in two!!! The cover was very well glued to the one half of the motor.

So I ended taking the hole thing aport cleaned it all and reassembled . But it was making noise. When apart there are little fingers that go around both halves
and should be very close to the coils but not touch them . A few were touching on each half. I bent them back and made sure they were evenly spaced to each other.
This stopped the noise.

But here is Marc's post as mentioned above . I did remove the shaft from the magnet and it was all ok. But if you don't have to I guess don't according to Marc.

marcmorin said:
do not remove the shaft from the magnet...........as shown in the link. When removing the magnet shaft assembly simply mount the motor coils atop a socket large enough to allow the magnet to pass through. The plastic thrust washers will need cleaned. there is one under the set bushing, and one at the bottom of the magnet/shaft. The bottom of the set bushing that rides against the top thrust washer will need polished.
The brass sleeve the shaft rides in will need cleaned. the top of the brass sleeve will need polished. The recess in the motor shaft needs filled with a light grease. Then oil the shaft and slide the magnet assembly up and down some to pull the oil into the sleeve. When setting the set bushing the magnet will have to be supported. You should be able to set the bushing to where there is no felt play up and down, to just a minimal amount of play. Don't put the outer can back on yet. Run the motor with oil setting in the bushing pocket, and clean it every hour or so and check for discoloration, add more oil and repeat. check the motor for heat. It should get warm to the touch, but not hot. If it gets hot, either the bushing is too tight, or the cap is out of value, or both. Put the can back on when you're satisfied with the rebuild.
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Athanasios
 
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Well, it should be warm but not hot. No breaking news there! I would assess again the tightness of the bushings. Was there a small clear plastic washer behind each brass bushing?
 
StuartB said:
Well, it should be warm but not hot. No breaking news there! I would assess again the tightness of the bushings. Was there a small clear plastic washer behind each brass bushing?
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I did not dissemble the motor more then shown on my picture above so I found just one small clear washer under the bushing on top of the spindle. I will give it another shot tonight and will try to get some more pieces apart. Also I did not polish any parts as Marc suggested in the other thread. I don't have any greace, just mineral oil. I'm thankful for any tips regarding the motor fix.
 
I would definitely polish the parts as that will help reduce any friction. I like autosol for that. Also, mineral oil isn't the best here, even some high quality motor oil would be better. I used 3in1 turbine oil. If the motor is properly cleaned and lubricated, you can eliminate that part and focus on your wiring. In marc's post, he suggested it could be one of three things making it run hot: i) needs cleaning/lubricating, ii) electrical (ie. wiring and/or caps) or iii) the motor coil(s) are shot. I would focus on getting item i) done right and eliminated and then focus on item ii) - post your wiring scheme, check/replace caps (even new can be faulty). I'm wish Marc was here to help but we'll do our best! If the problem is the coils, not sure what to do. Probably need a replacement.
 
Carbon13 said:
I would definitely polish the parts as that will help reduce any friction. I like autosol for that. Also, mineral oil isn't the best here, even some high quality motor oil would be better. I used 3in1 turbine oil. If the motor is properly cleaned and lubricated, you can eliminate that part and focus on your wiring. In marc's post, he suggested it could be one of three things making it run hot: i) needs cleaning/lubricating, ii) electrical (ie. wiring and/or caps) or iii) the motor coil(s) are shot. I would focus on getting item i) done right and eliminated and then focus on item ii) - post your wiring scheme, check/replace caps (even new can be faulty). I'm wish Marc was here to help but we'll do our best! If the problem is the coils, not sure what to do. Probably need a replacement.
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I used this wire scheme https://www.vinylengine.com/turntab...id=bcab04cb3f9cd86c653a065a0c5f7b19&mode=view
My wiring looks like this:
PXL_20201118_184747655.MP.jpg

I do have Autosol so Im going to polish the parts I find relevant.
Am I supposed to take the magnet / spindel apart more than it is now (bottom right of the picture)? I dont see how else Im able to polish the brass part inside.
 
Carbon13 said:
Isn't there supposed to be a second cap (0.01uf) on there? Or is that just not visible in the pic?
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I do have the switch cap but I took that out of the equation for now. On my second AR there is no switch cap and it runs just fine, but there is a big pop in the speakers everytime I switch it on or off.
 
Down in that magnet piece, there is a clear plastic washer like the one that came off of the top under the brass bushing. Get that out (if you haven't already) and clean it up as well. I use a dental tool to get it out. That might reduce friction if that is the cause of the heat.
 
StuartB said:
Down in that magnet piece, there is a clear plastic washer like the one that came off of the top under the brass bushing. Get that out (if you haven't already) and clean it up as well. I use a dental tool to get it out. That might reduce friction if that is the cause of the heat.
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I had two clear washers down the magnetic piece. Did clean them and everything else and polished every brass part as good as I could with a wooden stick. Probably not the best tool. Put it all together and it still runs burning hot. At least it runs quieter then ever.
PXL_20201118_195803245.jpg PXL_20201118_201318534.jpg PXL_20201118_203142209.MP.jpg PXL_20201118_203157399.MP.jpg PXL_20201118_212644344.jpg
 
Running quiet is good. Hot is bad. I think wiring may be the issue. You may want to try going back to the original switched arrangement and check if it still runs hot. Try original caps? May be a bit of trial and error
 
Carbon13 said:
Running quiet is good. Hot is bad. I think wiring may be the issue. You may want to try going back to the original switched arrangement and check if it still runs hot. Try original caps? May be a bit of trial and error
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Oh, I should mention that my motor was running hot even before I started to do new wiring and bought new caps. I will definitely do some trial and error. Is the heat built up due to friction or is it some kind of electric / resistance that makes it hot? Another thought is that maybe the Haydon ppl put in two plastic washers by mistake where it should be just one down the shaft at the magnet, and that causes more friction and heat? (I have in total three plastic washers in my motor. The third one is under the brass bushing at the top of the shaft).
 
The couple I have pulled apart only had one washer inside the magnet assembly and then one under the brass bushing. I would think that if it is running quietly that would be a sign that friction was not the issue. Could be way wrong, but wondering if it is more electronic that physical.....One of the many, many times that we all miss Marc. Was the speed of the motor/platter OK before you started working on it?
 
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