This also frees up wirenuts for use in your next crossover project!
Beautiful, Andyman!
Tell/show us how you cut the recess for the waveguide, please.... :yes:
Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
Tell/show us how you cut the recess for the waveguide, please.... :yes:
Sure, for starters, NPEs are fine. You'll likely want to install better when you arrive at a final design, however.... :yes:
Pio1980
AK Member
Hello Gordon & Gp;
Thnx much for the useful and informative replies so far!
I've been going to school on this thing, reading thru the entire thread and following linx to a relevent long DYI thread, thence to Dr. Geddes site and white paper and interview re acoustic waveguides. Lotta numbers and data over my head everywhere re cross-over design but I know at least where to go.
More follows;
That's my concern re "voicing" and driver integration vs the crossover point. Which driver actually carries the critical mids is going to largely determine nature of sound and dispersion pattern. Dr Geddes asserts crossing the woof to the mid best be done below 1kc and this makes sense 'tho' I think I've heard some systems that seem to get away with sharing the mids. In this particular case at least, having the comp driver carry the mids & highs, leaving LF mainly to the woof seems proper to me. I'd then of course abandon the stock xo for the E-W xo with the values appropriately adjusted. BTW Have any of you experimented with Dr. Geddes foam higher-order-modal damper plug idea in the E-W? He makes a strong case for it's utility value in this context.
The Econo-Wave project looks sufficiently interesting to follow up, thnx to you all, once the resources of time, space, and funds that aren't committed elsewhere become available. I'm still buried in renovating my ref system nearly done now and with faux (free from the J-B) experimental Anti-Cables replacing the 23 yr old-reliable cat-5 speaker tackle, evaluating the Dahlquist DQ-20i project results vs the Fuselier Model 5 'standard' (both time-and-phase-aligned all-direct radiator designs), selling off some excess to make room and bux, and trying to get the way-overdue seasonal svc done on the M/C, never mind the looming Holiday season's burdens.
Thnx again, all!
S.B.
Thnx much for the useful and informative replies so far!
I've been going to school on this thing, reading thru the entire thread and following linx to a relevent long DYI thread, thence to Dr. Geddes site and white paper and interview re acoustic waveguides. Lotta numbers and data over my head everywhere re cross-over design but I know at least where to go.
More follows;
That's my concern re "voicing" and driver integration vs the crossover point. Which driver actually carries the critical mids is going to largely determine nature of sound and dispersion pattern. Dr Geddes asserts crossing the woof to the mid best be done below 1kc and this makes sense 'tho' I think I've heard some systems that seem to get away with sharing the mids. In this particular case at least, having the comp driver carry the mids & highs, leaving LF mainly to the woof seems proper to me. I'd then of course abandon the stock xo for the E-W xo with the values appropriately adjusted. BTW Have any of you experimented with Dr. Geddes foam higher-order-modal damper plug idea in the E-W? He makes a strong case for it's utility value in this context.
The Econo-Wave project looks sufficiently interesting to follow up, thnx to you all, once the resources of time, space, and funds that aren't committed elsewhere become available. I'm still buried in renovating my ref system nearly done now and with faux (free from the J-B) experimental Anti-Cables replacing the 23 yr old-reliable cat-5 speaker tackle, evaluating the Dahlquist DQ-20i project results vs the Fuselier Model 5 'standard' (both time-and-phase-aligned all-direct radiator designs), selling off some excess to make room and bux, and trying to get the way-overdue seasonal svc done on the M/C, never mind the looming Holiday season's burdens.
Thnx again, all!
S.B.
Andy, those look awesome! I cannot wait to hear them. I have been in a dilemma, torn between LE14A, LE10A or 123A, likely in that order. The other tempting drivers are D123, perhaps run full range as they have really nice mids..
It was a pain but I did it with a router. I used a guide for the top, but freehanded the rest and it shows upon close inspection. The pencil lines were really hard to see on the rosewood and some of my corner radii are a bit wider than I'd like. I used a 3/4" bit set to just shy of the depth of the flange and routed the mount, then cut out the center with a jigsaw using the inner edge of the trough as a guide.
I think I'll make a template for the second one from some scrap. Once I get the corners snug, it's a lot easier to clamp it down and trace out the outer egde with a bearing guided pattern bit.
I rear mounted the woofers inside using T-nuts that I recessed and puttied over before the veneer was applied. I was going to radius the edges, but the flanges of the T-nuts are too close to the edges and interfere.
I'm on the bandwagon!
Ordered D220Ti & accessories from PE last night and waveguide from JBL on Thurs.
JBL woofers to try: LE10H-1/Delta, 122A-1/Horizon, 127H/Decade
Question Zilch might know (if not I ask LHF):
L50 features a fiberglass "acoustic resistance shell" behind 127H. Is that considered part of the driver or part of the tuned enclosure?
In other words if I transplant 127H into Decade 36 cabinet, should the shell go with?
Ordered D220Ti & accessories from PE last night and waveguide from JBL on Thurs.
JBL woofers to try: LE10H-1/Delta, 122A-1/Horizon, 127H/Decade
Question Zilch might know (if not I ask LHF):
L50 features a fiberglass "acoustic resistance shell" behind 127H. Is that considered part of the driver or part of the tuned enclosure?
In other words if I transplant 127H into Decade 36 cabinet, should the shell go with?
Any of those drivers should work nicely. :thmbsp:
The shell? That's the only product which used it, best I know.
It's a damping device, to reduce boominess in the bass.
If you're using 127H in the L50 box, keep it. Otherwise, consider it an optional tuning element.... :yes:
Take some pics to illustrate here when you do that, please.
I don't know a "bearing guided pattern bit" from a hole in the ground.... :tongue:
A "bearing guided pattern bit" looks like this one available from Rockler. Just about any woodworking store has them.. probably Sears as well... Basically you create a pattern, lay it over your intended surface and the bearing follows the pattern cutting into the surface at the depth you set.
However, taking that further.. there are "kits" you can buy that offset the pattern larger than the intended mortise. This offset allows you to create the pattern with a smaller bearing guided bit the diameter of the offset or using a slip on larger guide bushing when making the final cut. One bit makes the pattern, one bit cuts the mortise with the pattern. This method is commonly used in making inlays.. Go to a knowledgeable woodworking store and they should be able to show you.. it makes it easy.
Here you go..
Bit
Hole
Sorry; it was just too easy..:lmao:
I'll post pics later on as I work through it.
Attachments
Pio1980
AK Member
My SigCorps Hammy is tagged a Signal Corps BC-1004-C, the "all-wave" version. Have you tried 6V6s in place of the 6F6s? I find I prefer sheet beam tubes to "straight" screen-grid pentodes for UL and triode service here and 6CA7 rather than EL34 for Dyna & the like. YMMV of course.
Address from my Comet Pro's manual is 424-438 West 33rd street, N.Y.
What speaker do you use on yours? The best mate in a modern so far has been a suprizingly efficient and not-bad sounding JVC SPC-330 bookshelf 3-way borrowed from a budget JVC CAC-330 BPC combo system, played thru the Hammond 119DA 12w full-fidelity matching xformer.
I may op for putting together just one EW fo this project but I/we will have to know the characterisitics of whatever bass box it is to be mated with to do the xover if not one of the Pioneer Sound Project '300s. I'd really prefer an efficient single orphaned cab with decent lo-end extension to kick-start this Super-Pro project if one turns up if I don't opt to fully upgrade the '300 pair.
This EW project looks both attractive and do-able thanx to this project and you all.
Again, Many thanx for the responses! I will get back to you when I need assistance with the xover values.
S.B.
Address from my Comet Pro's manual is 424-438 West 33rd street, N.Y.
What speaker do you use on yours? The best mate in a modern so far has been a suprizingly efficient and not-bad sounding JVC SPC-330 bookshelf 3-way borrowed from a budget JVC CAC-330 BPC combo system, played thru the Hammond 119DA 12w full-fidelity matching xformer.
I may op for putting together just one EW fo this project but I/we will have to know the characterisitics of whatever bass box it is to be mated with to do the xover if not one of the Pioneer Sound Project '300s. I'd really prefer an efficient single orphaned cab with decent lo-end extension to kick-start this Super-Pro project if one turns up if I don't opt to fully upgrade the '300 pair.
This EW project looks both attractive and do-able thanx to this project and you all.
Again, Many thanx for the responses! I will get back to you when I need assistance with the xover values.
S.B.
Russellc
Addicted Member
This also frees up wirenuts for use in your next crossover project!
Beautiful, Andyman!
Tell/show us how you cut the recess for the waveguide, please.... :yes:
I've noticed another wirenutter or two here, its really a great idea for experimenting and no need to fire up the iron until you have it just right!
Another great Zilch inovation, along with "Zilch plugs". I dont know what to call them, "Zilch Nuts" just sounded plain wrong!
Russellc
Russellc
Addicted Member
On the other hand, daytons are cheapies!:yes::yes: And they work so well with wire nuts!
Russellc
Russellc
Addicted Member
