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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

1/2" thick walls? Unusable, IMO.

No the cabs are 1" thick oak. I'll the software suggested when I'm on my next rotation of days off.
 
1/2" thick walls? Unusable, IMO.

No the cabs are 1" thick oak. I'll the software suggested when I'm on my next rotation of days off.

In that case, your interior dimensions should be 2" smaller than your exterior dimensions. 1" per side and all.
 
I'm looking at 4 AR4s here, of which one actually has tweeter output. After the EWave project I'd seriously consider converting these into something usable. Is your AR4 tinkering compiled in a thread somewhere?
The meat and potatoes of it is in this thread:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=123113

[More than anybody would want to know, I should imagine. ;) ]


Zilch is that an eighteensound top left?
Indeed, yes, the small one. I forget what driver I have on it there, but I should probably swap in the 18-Sound mylar that comes in this relatively inexpensive combo, now that I have them:

http://www.eighteensound.com/index.aspx?mainMenu=view_product&pid=262

I need to find more $10 thrashed yard-sale AR4xs. The 6" square PT waveguides like you have would almost certainly work, too. I have one of the APT drivers you sent me on one just begging for a tryout here. Most everything I've done for AR4x HF has worked well. The woofs are 116A/H and 708G-2 in the pic.

Anybody wants to experiment with Mini-E'Waves, this is a viable path. I wonder if there's a new 8" woofer that'll work closed-box, too. Fun stuff.... :thmbsp:
 
Indeed, yes, the small one. I forget what driver I have on it there, but I should probably swap in the 18-Sound mylar that comes in this relatively inexpensive combo, now that I have them:

http://www.eighteensound.com/index.aspx?mainMenu=view_product&pid=262

I need to find more $10 thrashed yard-sale AR4xs. The 6" square PT waveguides like you have would almost certainly work, too. I have one of the APT drivers you sent me on one just begging for a tryout here. Most everything I've done for AR4x HF has worked well. The woofs are 116A/H and 708G-2 in the pic.

Anybody wants to experiment with Mini-E'Waves, this is a viable path. I wonder if there's a new 8" woofer that'll work closed-box, too. Fun stuff.... :thmbsp:

Go for it. Ride shotgun with Wiredbecker on a Ar4X-pedition and don't come back without.
 
I haven't been spending much time on this thread, or working on several EconoWave projects the last week or two. I have been on E-Bay selling Trusonic spares. Turned several pairs of drivers into about two grand, which will help buy new stuff. Love when that happens.

The one thing that didn't sell was my old Trusonic computer speakers. But, after looking at them, seems like they may be prime candidates for an EconoWave makeover. OK, they are in line. Also love when that happens.
 

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Looks most excellent, Ross. Hope the sound matches.

Thanks. Me too, but I have to find a woofer that doesn't buzz. What's surprising is that I'm running the top end in the upper 1/3 of the lpad range. I'd have expected to have to pad it down more for this relatively insensitive woofer. This combo might actually work equally well with either crossover version.

There's plenty of bass. Too much if it's back against a boundary. I might just stuff a little more fill in there eventually to take that down a notch if it becomes too boomy.

This was pretty easy. Today in 3 hours I did all of the cutting and drilling on the cab, installed the T-nuts, made up the terminal panel, assembled the electrical parts to the already-built crossover, installed all of the assemblies, stuffing, drivers, etc. and tested them. Up to this point I already had maybe 3 hours into re-foaming the woofers and building the crossover boards. This went quicker than I expected and the second one will be faster yet. I thought that cutting the cabinet cutout for the 'guide would be more of a hassle than it was but the saw fit fine in the narrow space and the T-nuts went in without a struggle.
 
Very neatly done, Ross! It'll be interesting to hear how you and your group like them, and how they compare to those others there have built. :thmbsp:

Sounds like Jack pegged the attenuation of the standard low-sensitivity crossover in a good range for building these. Ideally, it's somewhere in the top half of the rotation, which covers ~4 dB, a larger range of audible adjustment than common wisdom would presume.... :yes:
 
Very neatly done, Ross! It'll be interesting to hear how you and your group like them, and how they compare to those others there have built. :thmbsp:

Sounds like Jack pegged the attenuation of the standard low-sensitivity crossover in a good range for building these. Ideally, it's somewhere in the top half of the rotation, which covers ~4 dB, a larger range of audible adjustment than common wisdom would presume.... :yes:

Thanks. I look forward to demo-ing these at the Dec. SMAC meetup at DNagel's place.
I've got them back together with a good woofer. The bass is very strong with the speaker 2" off the floor in the middle of this large room. One concern that I had was full bottom end. It wasn't worth doing this for me unless the balance was right. That's not going to be a problem it appears.

Tomorrow I'll build up #2 and get the pair running in to break in the woofers. You'll know that I really like them if you see a pair of black ash Linn Isobarik DMS Monitors suddenly pop up on e*ay.
 
I've got them back together with a good woofer. The bass is very strong with the speaker 2" off the floor in the middle of this large room. One concern that I had was full bottom end. It wasn't worth doing this for me unless the balance was right. That's not going to be a problem it appears.
You've always had difficulty generating adequate bass in that room, as I recall. This'll be a good test.... :yes:
 
Out of curiousity, what is the difference between the regular drivers they have at PE and the "pro" drivers? Is there a reason that you chose pro-drivers?

in addition to what the others have said:

1. it has been suggested that the higher power handling capability of the pro-audio drivers results in less power compression. the human ear is very sensitive to changes in spl.

2. many non-pro drivers have more mechanical dampening which helps the driver produce a flatter frequency response. the tradeoff is the sound may be less dynamic. micro-details of the music content may be lost.
 
On the prompting of Russellc I finally ordered my wave guides from JBL today and hope to be ordering the rest of the components in the next few weeks.

I made it through the first 25-26 pages of this thread and had to jump ahead here. Am I missing a lot of info that I need in the other 160 or so pages?

A few quick questions. I have a set of Altec 872B Madrids that have been modded from the original 420Y to having a 12" from an Altec Model 14 and a 3" Altec dome in them. I'd like to disconnect the dome and use these as my Econowave speakers. Will they be good candidates for this in your opinions? I plan to just set the wave guides on top of the cabs.


Also, I have a pair of JBL L110's that the 033's are shot in. The mids and woofers have been rebuilt but not used yet. Would these be good to use with the wave guide in a three way set up?

Your thoughts and input will be appreciated. T.I.A.
 
A few quick questions. I have a set of Altec 872B Madrids that have been modded from the original 420Y to having a 12" from an Altec Model 14 and a 3" Altec dome in them. I'd like to disconnect the dome and use these as my Econowave speakers. Will they be good candidates for this in your opinions? I plan to just set the wave guides on top of the cabs.
Should work fine. If you like the result and the baffles are removable, another E'Waver is working with integrating the waveguides into Madrids. We have not seen the outcome yet, however:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2260213#post2260213


Also, I have a pair of JBL L110's that the 033's are shot in. The mids and woofers have been rebuilt but not used yet. Would these be good to use with the wave guide in a three way set up?
There are probably better options for L110 tweeters. Check over on LHF.... :yes:
 
Just thinking out loud, one could build a 3-way here, high efficiency Mid-Bass driver to
mate to the wave, then say a big ol 12, 15, 18 BASS driver upto say 100hz or so in the
same cab, maybe power the big woof with a large amp and the rest with whatever mood
or situation fits your personal style. :) Or just power the whole thing with one amp. Or 3!

i have been thinking about something like this. an advantage using a separate driver for the bass is that the lfe channel can be fed in for those with home theater setups.

a second advantage is the reduced distortion in the mid range during high spl, since the midrange won't be flopping all over the place trying to punch out high spl 45hz bass notes.

a disadvantage of putting it all in one cabinet is that the optimal position in the room for the low frequencies may be different than optimal positioning for the mid/high portion.

another disadvantage of the separate bottom woofer is the added cost...extra woofers, extra amps, etc.
 
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