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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

I'm a little unclear on what function you're recommending the LE14 for. The middle of a 3-way (probably) or the bottom of a 3-way.
The woofer, if single. If you believe LE14 to be "compromised" in the VLF region, you've just never worked it correctly for this. LE14H-3, for example, is officially a "subwoofer," warranting that designation above the vintage variants largely because of its higher power handling capacity. Citation 7.4 is LE14H-1, but LE14A is certainly no slouch in that same 3.4 cuft vented alignment.

Raise your hand if you keep a compass and scale in your desk for stuff like this.
That'd be me, of course, Clearprint pads, circle templates, and my Bruning 'lectric eraser are always immediately at hand. ;)

Your last dwg is what I had in mind, Ross.

The cluster doesn't need to be quite that tight; edge diffraction is less of an issue for the waveguide, as it is constant directivity, so it can be on center, with the mid/high combo raised up more.

If you want to offset from the midline a bit to mitigate any that might occur, put the two woofs on a shallow diagonal, and slide the mid/high over some. I certainly would not move it all the way to the edge as you originally proposed, however; one or two inches off-center, maybe. :dunno:

Note: EWG is 6.5" high, actually.

HPM-100 woofers are ~12-1/4" across the flats. You can easily kick Kegger's ass with duals, if desired.... ;)
 
This thread continues to deliver. True to the Great DIY Spirit, the shaman Bauhausler
is now Ewaving with markers, scissors, lined notebook paper, and a scanner.
attachment.php


I love this thread. :ntwrthy:
:D
 
Tiny curved sewing scissors especially retained for cutting out small circles.

My wife would want me to get an Autocad license like her and just be done with it. Like I need THAT learning curve.

I was thinking that the baffle dropoff effect would be beneficial in assisting the crossover from the mid to the woof, as the step in the midrange response occurs at around 170 hz with the midrange centrally located. Free extra crossover rolloff courtesy of baffle size and driver position.
 
The woofer, if single. If you believe LE14 to be "compromised" in the VLF region, you've just never worked it correctly for this. LE14H-3, for example, is officially a "subwoofer," warranting that designation above the vintage variants largely because of its higher power handling capacity. Citation 7.4 is LE14H-1, but LE14A is certainly no slouch in that same 3.4 cuft vented alignment.
SNIPPED FOR SINGLE SUBJECT

I'll take your word for the performance of the LE14 in the VLF with proper loading. I just think it's a very expensive driver to be using in an economy application when something cheaper and more available might do the same job. Unless I'm wrong about the price and availability

*********edit************

Crazy DIY-er Limono/Wojciek is coming over.

Offline for now.
 
I'll take your word for the performance of the LE14 in the VLF with proper loading. I just think it's a very expensive driver to be using in an economy application when something cheaper and more available might do the same job. Unless I'm wrong about the price and availability?
E'Wavers seem to be landing rehabbable LE14As for $100 a pair, less than what you were contemplating for the Dayton 15s.

Pristine refurbished ones go for over twice that, yes, but.... :music:
 
Okay, this gets interesting. Limono has a pair of BiFlex 420A that he says will work well in a 2-way with the Ewave.
That would certainly be simpler and higher sensitivity than what I've been considering. I guess I need to dig up the T-S parameters and see if they'll work in these 5.5' cabinets.
 
charge coupled crossovers for E'wave

Well, about a bizzillon pages ago Zilch posted a Charge coupled version of the Ewave crossover at my request. I set out to build it, and did so with the exception of the little resistors that the 9 volt batteries feed through. I finally ordered some the other day and should receive them any day.

For those of you that are in the dark, its a crossover typology often used by JBL (and others I suppose) in their very high end stuff which results in a much smoother treble, and overall improvement to the sound. Generally, any given cap is doubled in mfd value, and then 2 of them are used. At all the junctions of these two caps,
the positive post of a 9 volt battery is connected through a low watt high value ( I'm using 2.2 meg ) resistor.

I will shortly be reporting the effect of charge coupling the Ewave crossover and I anticipate a not so subtle improvement. Well, as soon as the resistors arrive anyway!:D

Russellc
 
Okay, this gets interesting. Limono has a pair of BiFlex 420A that he says will work well in a 2-way with the Ewave.
That would certainly be simpler and higher sensitivity than what I've been considering. I guess I need to dig up the T-S parameters and see if they'll work in these 5.5' cabinets.

You are probably aware of this but Bill at Great plains audio states these will take a 416 recone. FYI

Russellc
 
Well, about a bizzillon pages ago Zilch posted a Charge coupled version of the Ewave crossover at my request. I set out to build it, and did so with the exception of the little resistors that the 9 volt batteries feed through. I finally ordered some the other day and should receive them any day.

For those of you that are in the dark, its a crossover typology often used by JBL (and others I suppose) in their very high end stuff which results in a much smoother treble, and overall improvement to the sound. Generally, any given cap is doubled in mfd value, and then 2 of them are used. At all the junctions of these two caps,
the positive post of a 9 volt battery is connected through a low watt high value ( I'm using 2.2 meg ) resistor.

I will shortly be reporting the effect of charge coupling the Ewave crossover and I anticipate a not so subtle improvement. Well, as soon as the resistors arrive anyway!:D

Russellc

This effectively puts a 9V 'bias' on the dielectrics of the caps, ensuring that when the signal passes through the zero point the capacitor does not charge and discharge its dielectric. Or that's what I'm speculating happens. Theoretically this should make no difference at all, but in a capacitor with a lot of hysterisis in the dielectric it might. I would expect any audible effect to be highly dependent on capacitor type. This should make the greatest improvement in cheap, crummy NP electros and very little difference in high quality films with a low DF.
 
You are probably aware of this but Bill at Great plains audio states these will take a 416 recone. FYI

Russellc

I may try both with the ewave in these cabs and see if the 420A plays significantly differently from the 416-8Z. I'd go out and Google around for some kind of measurements (there's that word again) comparing the two but any kind of analysis on the performance of vintage drivers tends to be of the highly subjective "These drivers washed away all my sins and turned the water in my glass into wine" sort. Entertaining but not very useful.
 
I may try both with the ewave in these cabs and see if the 420A plays significantly differently from the 416-8Z.
I'd hate to see you abandon your 3-way concept in favor of what is, in essence, E'Waved Valencia. Andyman and others have been there, and you have, yourself, with respect to 416 bass response in that cab.

I've measured 420Y, and while it looks like it will work with E'Wave, the bass was "disappointing" in Madrid, at least:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1217155#post1217155

The BiFlex mechanical crossover appears to occur in the region of 2 kHz, and if so, you can bury it with your lowpass.

T/S parameters may reveal something different, and there's clearly minimal effort in trying out these 15s with E'Wave on a HF baffle such as Andy did, and varying the tuning, all of which is worthy experimentation in terms of verifying earlier findings by others, but I expect we'll be back here discussing alternatives soon thereafter.... :yes:
 
I would appreciate some guidance on minimum baffle width for the EWG. I was measuring a pair of 3 cu. ft. cabinets last night -- I've got about 17.5" across before a little lip and edge. That should be plenty wide, right?

Sorry if this has been dealt with -- I didn't locate the needle in this 300-page haystack!

If a very wide baffle is advantageous, the ~26 inches across of JBL 3677 cabinets would provide it, either expanding the existing horn spot or building something to go on top.
 
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