I have a really nice set of criterion 4X's....not a bad speaker...but not the best sounding speaker even after re-capping. The cabinets and grillcloth are absolutely beautiful...totally mint. Its a ported enclosure and I have been entertaining tearing out the baffle and using the cabs for a DIY proj....I think this is the project....mostly parts for costs and a simple baffle tear out. What is anyone's take on keeping the horn outside the enclosure and attached via its own mount? Also....is the distance between the horn and the woofer critical?You have hit it right on the head. This project is just stupid good sounding, absolutely wonderful. The bargain aspect of this is what will make you grin like you lost your mind,YOU WILL NOT BE DISSAPOINTED! Go for it, it is a simple project with tons of help available if you get stuck for any reason. Ask questions where it doesnt make sense, you will get answers and learn as you go. Search my posts, I ask all kinds of dense questions! And include pics and tell what you think. You will be glad you did.:thmbsp:
Russellc
Yes, that's correct. 1 cuft is actually the preferred volume for that driver closed box, but it's not very flat, and rolled off (-6 dB) up at 50 Hz. (Black, below)Hi Zilch, I do have bigger boxes, but my daughter asked for a system for her dorm room and I have 1 cf boxes to play with. If I use these woofs in the smaller than 3 cf box, it just won't have as much bass...right? Cheers,.
A lot of us are just setting the waveguide on top for starters. Then, you have to decide whether to integrate it into a new baffle and elevate or tilt the works at ear level, or move the woofer close to the top of the box and leave the waveguide separate. You can also put it in its own enclosure. I believe it will fit in one of the PE prefinished cabs mounted horizontally, but that's a "pricey" approach.I have a really nice set of criterion 4X's....not a bad speaker...but not the best sounding speaker even after re-capping. The cabinets and grillcloth are absolutely beautiful...totally mint. Its a ported enclosure and I have been entertaining tearing out the baffle and using the cabs for a DIY proj....I think this is the project....mostly parts for costs and a simple baffle tear out. What is anyone's take on keeping the horn outside the enclosure and attached via its own mount? Also....is the distance between the horn and the woofer critical?
Jack used LE10Hs in vented Baronet cabs one page back. LE10As will perform similarly:This raises the issue of cabinets, ;loading and crossover for the LE10A/EWG setup. Can anyone point me at some existing work that's been done that's applicable to the LE10A/EWG configuration? I'm sure it's in this thread somewhere but it's impossibly confusing to plow through 700 posts to find it. Anyone else working with LE10A's and willing to share their findings??
I have a really nice set of criterion 4X's....not a bad speaker...but not the best sounding speaker even after re-capping. The cabinets and grillcloth are absolutely beautiful...totally mint. Its a ported enclosure and I have been entertaining tearing out the baffle and using the cabs for a DIY proj....I think this is the project....mostly parts for costs and a simple baffle tear out. What is anyone's take on keeping the horn outside the enclosure and attached via its own mount? Also....is the distance between the horn and the woofer critical?
They have a 12 inch woofer in them with an alnico mag...Not sure if I would use that one but what the hell...put'm together...if they aren't the best....put a proper woofer in there.
Jack used LE10Hs in vented Baronet cabs one page back. LE10As will perform similarly:
http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=150939&page=47
Run your box models for LE10A....
"A" is alnico, and "H" is ferrite.Thanks for the info. I did not know that "A" AND "H" were equivalent.
"A" is alnico, and "H" is ferrite.
The motor structure is also different, and the T/S parameters result in slightly different "optimum" alignments.
Where are you seeing the 4313B impedance curve? It should have two peaks, yes.
See also L96:
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Technical Sheet/L96 Delta ts.pdf
4313 used L111A, which is more like "same as" LE10A.
I don't see the value in using any of these for anything more than guidance, however.... :yes:
The lower peak is below 20 Hz, so you don't see it, is all.
Fmin appears to be around 34 Hz, and that would approximate Fb, the box tuning frequency.... :yes:
Can anyone point me at some existing work that's been done that's applicable to the LE10A/EWG configuration? I'm sure it's in this thread somewhere but it's impossibly confusing to plow through 700 posts to find it.
Anyone else working with LE10A's and willing to share their findings??
Thanks