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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

@ bsujeep
White stuff in cap holes is some putty to kill resonances.....and some 2mm thick green 100% cotton fabric.

Wool felt was commonly used in vintage compression drivers.... :yes:

Thanks for the info. Seems like a pretty easily reversed tweak. I'll have to file that one for after I get used to the sound I am getting now.

Either I am getting used to them or they are smoothing out. I have been fussing with placement and I like how they are, might have something to do with the smoothing. Keep on listening!
 
I'm using Dayton DC300s for the woofers. With the Mach One cab I can mount the Waveguide in the original horn location at the top of the cab. This is a sealed box, isolated from the main volume. I can move woofer up to keep the drivers close together.

I can also move the waveguide down and open up the sealed compartment at the top. This arrangement leaves both driver closer to the middle of the cab on the vertical access.

Thoughts on any real advantage to one location over the other.
Hi, Larry!

Sorry, looks like I missed your question a couple of pages back.

I'd mount the waveguide where the existing horn is located, assuming there's room, and slide the woofer up as close as you can get it.... :yes:
 
Thanks and one more question

The waveguide should fit fine in the original location. One last question. The original horn "compartment" is isolated from the rest of the cabinet by a plate. I can easily open this plate up and still retain its function as a brace.

Sound good? BTW, the Mach One cabs are roughly 2.4 cubic feet internal volume w/o drivers.
 
One last question. The original horn "compartment" is isolated from the rest of the cabinet by a plate. I can easily open this plate up and still retain its function as a brace.

Sound good? BTW, the Mach One cabs are roughly 2.4 cubic feet internal volume w/o drivers.
Only if your design requires additional volume for the desired woofer alignment. If you're using the stock woofer, and if you want it to sound the same, I'd leave it be.... :yes:
 
RE: LC9A from Oceanway...
It wouldn't hurt a bit if they included attribution to May, at least. I can't imagine they expect the obvious provenance to go unrecognized. Bad marketing, I'd say, and their "angle" will likely refocus once the heat is on. :nono: ......

Good points - I thought about it a bit more, and realized that TAD and Coral didn't exactly tell the world in their advertisments that they copied a JBL design with their compression drivers or woofers, nor did JBL after copying (improving?) the original WE design. So, if Allen Sides improved the crossover and changed the horn profiles a little all to improve the design, so be it called his own. I think he needs to be 'interviewed' by a pro magazine where they can ask the question about the resemblance to the LC9A and he can explain the differences.

pardon the sidetracking...back to ewaving!
 
feeding the curve junkies

Here you go, folks. :music:
Please excuse the poor image quality...

First measurements ~1m on-axis, in-basement response.
Left
1mL.JPG


Right
1mR.JPG


Nearfield Left
2nearL.JPG


Nearfield Right
2nearR.JPG


1m done again with different scale
Left
3mL.JPG


Right
3mR.JPG


von.ah Lab :D
set.JPG


There looks to be something up (down) with that right speaker, as I thought when I tried them in the main rig months ago... Maybe. They actually sound damn good in the basement, minus a little boom. :music:
 
Thanks for posting those!
Looks good.:banana:

I see the dip at about 4k on right speaker.
I would suggest rotating the diaphragm on the Selenium. Measure at each position and see which is the best. I had similar issues, as others have had. Could be an easy fix.

I would also suggest a 5 dB scale on the measurements, like you used on the nearfield and the bottom two.
 
Excellent advise, skywave-rider. I vaguely recall the rotating Selenium discussion from way back. I'll try that!

Would the jagged 630-1000 mess likely be room effect?

And thanks, Gordon, for the 118H anecdote. I may end up refoaming those in the future and comparing them to the ADS woofers.
 
Got DC300s working well in a 2 cu ft ported box (3"x9" port), and no measurements yet, but swept a sine wave and it's solid down to 40Hz. Pretty much what WINISD said. Question: I have about 60% fiberglass fill in there. Too much? Should I just line the standard 3-sides instead?

These guys made me doubt my belief that just like in a sealed box, more fiberglass =better:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/153199-enclosure-stuffing.html
 
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Excellent advise, skywave-rider. I vaguely recall the rotating Selenium discussion from way back. I'll try that!

Would the jagged 630-1000 mess likely be room effect?

And thanks, Gordon, for the 118H anecdote. I may end up refoaming those in the future and comparing them to the ADS woofers.

Were both the left and right measured in exactly the same location?
If so, it's likely relatively small variation in each woofer's response. I try to measure at exactly the same spot...mark the floor...whatever, because you are trying to minimise the room anyway. When you want to check the in room response at listening position it's a different story.

The jags look to be about 3-4dB.
 
Right. No, they were in two different locations, like the Lab photo shows. I was speed-geeking, mind you. To quote a very patient person, "We don't have time for geeky speaker fun." (said just after I told her about the measurement system in the basement). She's right, btw. :D
So 3-4 db isn't so big a deal, and maybe just an anomaly for that spot.
 
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I bought the cabs gutted. I'using a DD300 for the woofer. As I type, I realize that it will be easy enough to try with the waveguide isolated. The volume below the plate is still larger than a large Advent. I could always open up if needed. Thanks for the advice.

Only if your design requires additional volume for the desired woofer alignment. If you're using the stock woofer, and if you want it to sound the same, I'd leave it be.... :yes:
 
von.ah Lab :D
;)

There looks to be something up (down) with that right speaker, as I thought when I tried them in the main rig months ago... Maybe. They actually sound damn good in the basement, minus a little boom. :music:
What Skywave said. I certainly see the typical eWave signature in the left speaker. The nearfield bass looks good, too.

Got DC300s working well in a 2 cu ft ported box (3"x9" port), and no measurements yet, but swept a sine wave and it's solid down to 40Hz. Pretty much what WINISD said. Question: I have about 60% fiberglass fill in there. Too much? Should I just line the standard 3-sides instead?
I consider 60% to be "heavy" fill, and don't do that with ported alignments without specific justification. :dunno:

I bought the cabs gutted. I'using a DD300 for the woofer. As I type, I realize that it will be easy enough to try with the waveguide isolated. The volume below the plate is still larger than a large Advent. I could always open up if needed. Thanks for the advice.
Yup, this is the fun part.... :thmbsp:
 
Here you go, folks. :music:
Please excuse the poor image quality...

First measurements ~1m on-axis, in-basement response.
Left
1mL.JPG


Right
1mR.JPG


Nearfield Left
2nearL.JPG


Nearfield Right
2nearR.JPG


1m done again with different scale
Left
3mL.JPG


Right
3mR.JPG


von.ah Lab :D
set.JPG


There looks to be something up (down) with that right speaker, as I thought when I tried them in the main rig months ago... Maybe. They actually sound damn good in the basement, minus a little boom. :music:

Looks like you and I have the same electrician:D:D!
 
Got DC300s working well in a 2 cu ft ported box (3"x9" port), and no measurements yet, but swept a sine wave and it's solid down to 40Hz. Pretty much what WINISD said. Question: I have about 60% fiberglass fill in there. Too much? Should I just line the standard 3-sides instead?

These guys made me doubt my belief that just like in a sealed box, more fiberglass =better:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/153199-enclosure-stuffing.html
Hmmm
Hey SWR, how close do the TS parameters of the DC300s approach those of the 414-16E or 16C? (potential pulls from a pair of 9844)
I too planned to use ~2.0 cu ft enclosures (Sansui SP200- inside measures 24" x 13.25" x 11") My plan was to flip'em (to bring the woofer up to 18" from the foor AND proximity to the waveguide) then board up and seal the holes for the mids and tweets (and gain back some volume?)

I think though the existing 5" vent port might be too large? However, I guess have some choices in terms of porting as I have the one 5.5" (the original vent port is equipped with a 5"ID x 7 3/4" long PVC pipe) then there's two 4.25" inch holes (fm mids) and two 2" from the tweets, but their orientation is perhaps poor or too tightly spaced? So I think I would like to keep just one of the 2" (and enlarge and pipe as required).It'd be nice if the final dimension resulted in just a 3/4" pipe as then I could just eliminate the PVC tubing.

So my questions are I guess: ARE these well made 100% ~13/16" plywood (actually some sort of "metric" 20mm material) cabs a suitable match for the Altec 414-16C or 16E 12" driver for an Econowave? (I've already ordered the 220TIs and Pyle waveguides) OR should I look for different cabs? If so, what software would you recommend to determine the port size/s I require?
AND
IS THERE SOME WAY TO DEAL WITH A 16-OHM WOOFER AND 8-OHM HF DRIVER IN THE ECONOWAVE CROSSOVER?


THANKS
WopOnTour
 

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IS THERE SOME WAY TO DEAL WITH A 16-OHM WOOFER AND 8-OHM HF DRIVER IN THE ECONOWAVE CROSSOVER?


THANKS
WopOnTour

Yep. Just start out with twice the inductor size for the woofer (3mh instead of 1.5mh) and half the cap size (6uf instead of 12uf). Use the normal values on the E-wave highpass section.

You might want to over-size the woofer inductor a bit beyond that... you can always un-wind a little off of it, or decrease the cap size a bit, if there's not enough midrange. Maybe start with a 3.5mH...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
I think though the existing 5" vent port might be too large? However, I guess have some choices in terms of porting as I have the one 5.5" (the original vent port is equipped with a 5"ID x 7 3/4" long PVC pipe) then there's two 4.25" inch holes (fm mids) and two 2" from the tweets, but their orientation is perhaps poor or too tightly spaced? So I think I would like to keep just one of the 2" (and enlarge and pipe as required).It'd be nice if the final dimension resulted in just a 3/4" pipe as then I could just eliminate the PVC tubing.
You've got a bunch of options for porting there. I think I'd work with the 5" opening and reduce it from behind with plywood and whatever duct size I needed.

I'm not sure anybody knows the 414 T/S parameters, but they're likely quite different from DC300. I don't have any, but I'm on the lookout for a pair. :yes:

I think here's my anomaly-generator:
The ubiquitous pile-o-junk encroaching on the measurement chamber. :D
HUH?

We call that "room damping" at ZilchLab.... :tongue:
 
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