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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

Here's an off the shelf solution. If the PE trap cab will fit, you are done.

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showpost.php?p=1620779&postcount=20

read through that entire thread...

i also noticed the deluxe one...

as both are under my budget, can you comment on why you chose the first over the second? i'm curious. it's rare that people try to get me to spend less money when i ask for advice, they always want to go over budget instead...

zilch, if you are there, can you clarify the porting of the box for me with each of the options?

really rookie question coming up here (i warned you i had no clue about this endeavor)... what do i use for ports and how do i mount them?
 
The ports are plastic DWV pipe, in those, 2 x 2" ducts, 9.5" long, in the rear. There's a pic from the inside earlier in this thread.

Deluxe is a higher-efficiency design than eWavers typically build, best suited for use with a sub. In a larger cabinet, they could be tuned to make jukebox bass. For your application, one of the 15" woofers may be worth a look.

We don't have enough data from you yet. What size woofer was in your jukebox originally? How much internal volume is available? Let's see some pics of what you have to work with -- the insides, the openings.... :yes:
 
The ports are plastic DWV pipe, in those, 2 x 2" ducts, 9.5" long, in the rear. There's a pic from the inside earlier in this thread.

Deluxe is a higher-efficiency design than eWavers typically build, best suited for use with a sub. In a larger cabinet, they could be tuned to make jukebox bass. For your application, one of the 15" woofers may be worth a look.

We don't have enough data from you yet. What size woofer was in your jukebox originally? How much internal volume is available? Let's see some pics of what you have to work with -- the insides, the openings.... :yes:

thanks zilch... :) that makes a bit more sense now...

pictures/data in next post, i want to do a "test post" to make sure my images work...
 
data with pictures... i'll break this down into a couple of posts...

exterior of juke...

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original 15" woofer...

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inside of door before disassembly...

Door-20Before-20disassembly.jpg


inside of door with woofer removed...

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inside of door with internal skin removed...

Door-20with-20Inside-20Skin-20removed.jpg


inside of door with grill removed...

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top view of door frame...

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width of opening in front door frame...

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height of opening in front door frame... note that there is actually another 6 inches available, but part of that is blocked by chrome...

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That's quite a lovely one.

What's at the bottom of the door below the speaker?

Looks like motorized rotating vanes with space for a light bulb behind it?

Fabulous...! :thmbsp:
 
That's quite a lovely one.

What's at the bottom of the door below the speaker?

Looks like motorized rotating vanes with space for a light bulb behind it?

Fabulous...! :thmbsp:

Just don't mind the yellow thing with a black cord laying on the ground. That one will require supervision. :D
 
dimensions/constraints/other stuff...

- i'm not putting the inner skin back on the door... there's no need to, since it's only real function is to serve as a mount for the woofer...

- the door opening is 17" wide...

- maximum box width is probably about 18-19", assuming there are overhangs like on this box...

attachment.php


- there's actually some more width in there, but it's not usable (speaker wouldn't be flush with front door opening)...

- maximum box depth is 22"...

- maximum box height is 36"... i need to leave a little bit of room for the electronics...

- i'll build a shelf for the speaker to sit on...

- if it will be better acoustically, it would be ok if the front grill/screen didn't go back on, and the front door opening just got covered with acoustically transparent material... to be honest, i wouldn't cry if i didn't have to get all that rust off the grill AND restore the screen (there's a BOATLOAD of those little blue mirrors on there)...

- in terms of "fitment", deeper is probably better than taller, but it really doesn't matter...

hopefully, this is a good start... :)
 
That's quite a lovely one.

What's at the bottom of the door below the speaker?

Looks like motorized rotating vanes with space for a light bulb behind it?

Fabulous...! :thmbsp:

needs a bit of love, but it's not too bad... especially since i don't have to make the mechanicals work... just thinking about rebuilding the record changing mech gives me an excedrin headache...

yup, that's what it is... it needs a lot of love... :sigh: fortunately, all the parts are available to rebuild it... not inexpensive, but available...

thanks! i think this is going to work out really well, which is why i'm willing to spend the time and money to get really decent sound out of it... swmbo is a magician when it comes to faux wood painting, so the outside will definitely look good... the only really expensive thing i need to buy are the big red plastics for the sides ($375 for a repro set... :cry: )... the dome is in really nice shape, but the animation is shot in that as well...

Just don't mind the yellow thing with a black cord laying on the ground. That one will require supervision. :D

LOL!

if that was the only piece of wiring "requiring supervision" (i like the way you put that), i'd be a happy man... sadly, there are many others like that... happily, most of them are (were?) connected to things i don't need any longer...

i probably won't even use the original animation/lights for the big red plastics... rather than trying to troubleshoot that mess, i'll just replace the lightbulbs with led lights and buy an pre-built ic to control them...

edit: oops... now i see that you meant the drill, not the power cord inside the juke that isn't connected to anything... :) unfortunately, extreme measures were required for some of the screws... :D whoever assembled the thing did a really nice job of completely stripping some of them...

i hope i'm not going too far off topic... :worried:
 
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here is what the front of the grill looks like now...

IMG_1088.jpg


sadly, this needs a lot of love as well... another reason why i wouldn't cry if the grill didn't go back on...

although it sure would look nice restored... so if leaving the grill on won't "hurt", it would be nice to have the option to put it back on at a later date...
 
one other bit of data i forgot... i don't have the back door for it, and those are made of unobtanium... so the back of the unit is open and will remain that way...

i note this because i read somewhere in this thread about using a passive radiator instead of ports, but i don't know if that makes things more difficult or easier... :sigh:

i wish i knew more about the topic at hand, but i promise you, i'm usually a quick learner.. :)
 
Sadly, this needs a lot of love as well... another reason why i wouldn't cry if the grill didn't go back on...

although it sure would look nice restored... so if leaving the grill on won't "hurt", it would be nice to have the option to put it back on at a later date...
Bead blast'll clean it up real easy.

Gotta be there, no option. :nono:

Why would you want to save such a thing....
Artifact of another age, Byrd.

[Think of it as R2D2's dad.... ;) ]
 
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Gotta be there, no option. :nono:

Artifact of another age, Byrd.

[Think of it as R2D2's dad.... ;) ]

ok, ok... i'll refinish the grill, and i'll make swmbo glue all the little mirrors on... :)

darn... i was hoping you were going to come back and say the grill is an acoustical disaster, and don't even think about putting it back on... :D

to byrd. it's that nostalgia thing... :) it's gonna be wicked cool in my living room...
 
darn... i was hoping you were going to come back and say the grill is an acoustical disaster, and don't even think about putting it back on... :D
Worse; I'm thinking of how to retain the inner skin, as well.... :tongue:
 
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Worse; I'm thinking of how to retain the inner skin, as well.... :tongue:

lol... gonna really torture me, huh? :)

that can be stripped and refinished easily... and the cloth for it is a cheap repro part... so it won't kill me if it goes back on... i'll need to add some weight in the base in the back of the box though (or just leave the rusty old amplifier in there)...

i don't know how well it showed up in the pictures, but the mounting point for the existing driver is angled... i.e. it doesn't fire straight out, it fires "up" a bit...
 
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