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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

donc said:
should the woofer be flush mounted or from rear of baffle ? should horn be surface or flush mounted ? donc
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Front mounted, flush optional. Free-standing, even.

donc said:
wave guides and horns are not anything new so what's the difference with econo-waveguides that has started this trend ? donc
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Modern waveguides are very much improved over earlier designs; they're not your father's horns, anymore. We picked a good one and designed an inexpensive package that any DIYer could build.... :thmbsp:
 
Zilch, I dont have those parts(3.3uf and 0.8mh) now, Just wanted to know if it makes a big difference with how the HF sounds.
I already start building another one with original parts that i had before. Didnt want to have to discard the 4.7uf and 0.6mh.
 
Those components are specific to the design shown here, which is optimized for DC300 woofers:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3383067#post3383067

You're asking me to go in there, put in the "wrong" components for that combination and tell you if there's a difference? Without me doing that, rest assured there is a difference and I have no way of knowing which you might prefer.

As always, my best advice has to be to stick with the program; otherwise there's little point in working one out in the first place.... :)
 
Ok , Zilch thats what I wanted to know, it all again has to do with the woofer used then. not just for the HF alone. I thought the change was optimized for just the HF(D220ti) part alone my bad.
 
Zilch-- Since I already have the 2420's, are they a suitable alternative to the DE-250 on the QSC waveguides? This may have been covered before, I'm getting old!
 
jaybird said:
Zilch-- Since I already have the 2420's, are they a suitable alternative to the DE-250 on the QSC waveguides? This may have been covered before, I'm getting old!
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Recalling that 2420s were the driver originally used in 4430, the answer is "Yes," but you'll have to make an adapter plate to go from 3-bolt to 2-bolt. Know that JBL stuck a sheetmetal hanger in that location in many designs. Fill any discontinuity with clay or a precision gasket.... :yes:
 
I have adapter plates that I made for my 811b's out of 3/8" ABS with 2 counterbored T-nuts for the horn and 3 countersunk holes for the driver. Will the 3/8" added have much effect on the response?
 
Hi,
I'm thinking of doing some sim's on the PE trap cab. Looking at the .pdf (Thanks, Zilch!) on their web site:

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/245-325m.pdf

I find I need dimensions that are missing.

1) What is the depth of cabinet, inside dimension?
2) What is the inside width of the back panel?
3) What is the measurement inside the case to the closest edge of the driver hole?

Thanks for all
 
3) 1-29/32", but mine've been rounded over 3/4" from the front side, which may have removed a bit of material there. The woofer opening is 11" Dia. nominal.
 
hi... first post after several hours of reading... :)

i was pointed over to this thread by a kind poster over at avs forum... here is the link to my thread there, and what follows is my original post/question from there...

disclaimer: i know nothing about designing a "speaker" from scratch, so be gentle, and use little words... :)

i recently acquired a seeburg trashcan jukebox (1948):

jbmseetrash.jpg


not in that condition, sadly... mine can be (generously) labeled as "restorable, with most pieces there"... :p

anyway... the intention is to gut the entire thing, make the outside pretty, make all the lights and buttons work and turn it into a cd changer/ipod dock... get a used/cheap pro amp and toss that in for power... add volume control... that part is pretty much figured out...

but for the speaker or speakers/xover, i'm lost... i'm thinking that it shouldn't be too difficult to come up with something better than what is in there now (standard big jukebox driver)... but i have no idea where to start... :o

so, i need a solution, and i'm hoping that someone (or ones) will be willing to help me out... :)

i'm "guessing" that i'd want it to be mono, because i don't really think stereo "works" co-located... but i'm open to be educated on that...

there's a lot of room in there... for comparison, i'm looking at my 15 inch paradigm sub, and it would fit in there without a problem... it could even be another 8 inches or so taller... i can modify the front door if necessary to make more area for the speaker to fire through (the current hole is the size of the existing speaker)... i can also fabricate a shelf/mount to securely mount whatever you come up with...

keep in mind that while i'm pretty good with electronics, my woodworking skills are about the level of "can cut wood without losing appendages"... obviously it doesn't have to be pretty, since once inside the jukebox, no one will ever see it... but if there's any difficulty involved, i'd have to have it built for me... a man has got to know his limitations... :D

as far as budget goes... how about $500 to start, counting everything i'd need (including having the cabinet made if necessary)? i have no idea what a "good" diy speaker "should" cost... :confused: i can easily move north of that number, but i don't know where diminishing returns start to kick in...

it would be nice if it would play loud enough to fill a reasonably large area (about 17X40), but also sound good when played at a low volume... edit: when i say "fill", i mean "can hear it in the background", not "blow my ears off from 20 feet away"... ;)

anything i'm missing? any other info needed?

thanks guys. i know you'll come up with something good for me... :)
 
so that's the basics of what i am hoping to accomplish... from my reading, i believe i've come to the right place... :banana:

i have no pre-conceived ideas, so i'm placing myself in you guys (hopefully gentle) hands... like i indicated in my post, budget is $500, but can comfortably move north if needed... i want to do this "right", and i have enough money in my "discretionary funds budget" to do so...

fwiw, the 17X40 area referenced in the previous post is my entire first floor... it's an "open" floor plan... they kinda built these old houses that way...

i know i'm probably not providing all the information necessary, so please fire away and let me know what i'm leaving out...

edit: if it matters, the "type" of music listened to is primarily classical (me) and techno (swmbo)...
 
3) 1-29/32", but mine've been rounded over 3/4" from the front side, which may have removed a bit of material there. The woofer opening is 11" Dia. nominal.
Click to expand...

The external round-over will have no effect on these sim's. This will be a search & destroy mission for internal cabinet resonances & standing waves. :thmbsp:

This provides me with a distance from the inside end of the enclosure to the center of driver of (1-29/32 + 11/2) = (~1-7/8" + 5-1/2") = 7-3/8" = ~7.41"

I'll use this value to define the location of the mid-woof from the inside end of the case.

I'll interpolate (guess, scale) the other values to get started.
 
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ccotenj said:
i know i'm probably not providing all the information necessary, so please fire away and let me know what i'm leaving out...
Click to expand...

Now that looks like a project :smoke:

Here's how I would attack it...having never done anything like it before

1) Figure out all the electronics - where do the amp and other goodies go?

2) Figure out how much space you have left for the speaker box. Your speaker design starts here. Let's guess 2.5 to 3.0 cubic feet...nothing magical about this size.

3) Pick a mid-woofer that works with your box size and budget. A 12" is a good guess. You can spend under $50 or over $500. Generally speaking, deeper bass = lower efficiency (SPL) though that shouldn't be a problem since power is cheap. Pick a budget and work from there. $100-$200 covers lots of choices.

4) Order the horn, compression driver, crossover parts, and start building. My suggestion is to work with the standard eWave combo (pyle 612 horn and Selenium D220Ti compresion driver).

You can get really fancy with the modeling and tweaking the crossover but that would be overkill for your project.

Good luck!
 
^^^

thanks for the input don... much appreciated...

when i get home later today, i'll measure to see how much room there is in there and what i have for openings... i "think" i've got the placement of the electronics figured out (for the most part)... depending on what the speaker ends up looking like, they'll either go in the very bottom of the juke or up in the top where the record selector unit is now...

point well taken on the overkill... especially given that this is my first shot at doing something like this, i don't want to get overwhelmed... i just want something that is going to sound reasonably good, and if somewhere down the line some actual speaker theory starts to seep into my hard head, i can get more fancy down the road...
 
Proper Cab For Fisher 12" Woofer

Hello Gentlemen:

Have a pair of clean 12'' Fisher drivers with alnico magnets from 3-way console stereo.
Looking for cab suggestions(dimensions) for Econo-Wave system.
Much thanks for any advice.

Mark
 
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