I really like your LE-8x8. I bet it sound tight.
The K2 is unusual to say the least. I'd like to hear that one.
The K2 is unusual to say the least. I'd like to hear that one.
Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
DonQuixote99
just give me some truth
Big Bruiser Cabs
These speakers are available locally at [a reasonable price].
Don't know the manufacturer/model at this point (anyone go a guess?), but I know the size: 18" wide, 15" deep, 36" tall. That works out to approx. 4.3 cu ft, which gets it into the target range for my Model 14 woofer project. Adapting would just be a matter of bolting (and gluing) a new baffle to the front. The pro style might be a plus--these speakers might go on trips sometimes, after all....
Let me ask this again: it shape critical at all, or is one cubic rectangle pretty much like another, as long as the volume spec is met?
These speakers are available locally at [a reasonable price].
Don't know the manufacturer/model at this point (anyone go a guess?), but I know the size: 18" wide, 15" deep, 36" tall. That works out to approx. 4.3 cu ft, which gets it into the target range for my Model 14 woofer project. Adapting would just be a matter of bolting (and gluing) a new baffle to the front. The pro style might be a plus--these speakers might go on trips sometimes, after all....
Let me ask this again: it shape critical at all, or is one cubic rectangle pretty much like another, as long as the volume spec is met?
Attachments
MunkeyQ
Super Member
Those look like white van/very low end DJ gear unfortunately - 2 cheap mids and an even cheaper piezo horn. They might make good cabinets for reloading with decent components as long as they're built well...double check this as most "pro" DJ speakers are made of glued and unbraced 1/2" particle board!
Front baffle shape will have an effect on baffle step frequency and LF reinforcement in room placement, but I don't know enough to comment on the exact formulas for that.
Front baffle shape will have an effect on baffle step frequency and LF reinforcement in room placement, but I don't know enough to comment on the exact formulas for that.
foofighter
Moonshiner
Hi, surprisingly they sound very well. The dipoles may have advantages in modal region, but in pressure region (20-30hz) no question the monopoles are winners.
I wrote at length comparing waveguide and dipole designs sometimes ago.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...rectivity-vs-dipole-study-11.html#post2418436
I took this with the iphone. Hopefully you'll get some ideas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwSK8dmeqgU
Hi Gainphile. Nice work :thmbsp:
I was wondering if you have any frequency response graph of B&C DE250 combined with JBL clone waveguide...
Regards...
Duffinator
Spin The Black Circle
AK Member of the year award to Zilch
Just in case you all missed it Zilch received the Audio Karma member of the year award.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=4467814&posted=1#post4467814
Just in case you all missed it Zilch received the Audio Karma member of the year award.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=4467814&posted=1#post4467814
Duffinator
Spin The Black Circle
Those look fantastic, congratulations! :thmbsp:Econowave #115... with paint !
Red sounds better
I need to reconfigure the DSP due to volume changes.
DonQuixote99
just give me some truth
You called it. They are "Audiofiles," a well-known white-van label. I'm not going to bother looking at them.
skywave-rider
Slumming in Akihabara
Erich,
I'll have to get up to speed on that thread. Is there a price for the SEOS-15 WG you showed? I see from your page there is a mounting ring listed. How does it mount?
I'll have to get up to speed on that thread. Is there a price for the SEOS-15 WG you showed? I see from your page there is a mounting ring listed. How does it mount?
Yes, that's the one that was designed over on the AVS forum to replace the QSC model, but also make it much better. I looked around to get it prototyped.
It's a long read:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1291022
There was a lot of time put into the design. The one in the photo is the final fiberglass version. I know another guy that was trying to get it made from a different material that would likely be cheaper, but not sure how that turned out just yet.
I also emailed back and forth with Zilch and he was going to do the testing because he really liked this shape. Zilch was going to do the design work and offer the crossovers and components on his site and I was going to offer the waveguides and the enclosure flat packs for all his designs.
We were both going to have our sites go live in January and link between them. I had the Econowave stuff ready to upload before he passed away. It's really sad. Obviously some of that is on hold because I really don't know if people want to continue with it. I also don't know what size enclosures he wanted me to get priced, so everything was put on hold. It was going to be pretty nice.
I did get my site up and also started the Group Buys on a few projects, including the waveguides.
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/
The photo above, with more info, is under the Elliptical waveguides.
I really don't know what to do about the other stuff that Zilch was hoping to have done. I'm willing to still do it and actually want to, but I need some help on a few things. I've never posted a message on this site until Zilch passed away. I usually keep busy over at AVS and would really like to hold up my end on what we discussed so that more people can enjoy his work.
dnewma04
The Healer
In layman's terms, caps can be sticky when they are discharged completely, meaning that they don't recover as quickly. By adding a battery, you are biasing the voltage of the battery to 9v, allowing them to avoid the sticky discharged state.
You can convert any crossover to being charge coupled by replacing any single cap with two caps of twice their value in series and adding the + voltage from the battery at the intersection of the caps.
In other words, if you have a 10uf cap in your crossover, you'd put two 20 uf caps in series.
IME with charge coupling, it's been consistently better subjectively, as opposed to my cap replacement experimentation which has been consistently inconsistent.
4343
Super Member
The 1M to 3M resistor works to slow the drain on the battery to imperceptible levels. The battery should last as long as it would sitting on a shelf...
I broke a diaphragm just the other day. I tried bending the tabs inward a little, (to further clear the cone on my Koax-Waves) but the movement pulled the wire apart just where it enters into the sandwich consisting of the mounting rings and the diaphragm surround. (If you need to bend the tabs for some reason, you should un-solder the wire first, and solder it back when you are done bending.)
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You are welcome; keep us posted on the results
jhoyt
Incomprehensible space llama
Thanks for the information. And, that's where mine broke--both of them. I'm thinking of soldering a short pigtail lead onto the terminals, so I don't have to fool with them when working with the driver.
voodoocrue
New Member
Got a question,i'm still running my Mini S8 version off spec on the woofer side. I bought the JBL HLS 810s off fleabay and somebody had replaced the woofers with Dayton ST210-8's http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-100s.pdf .I intend to buy the Eminence speaker eventually and give it a try but I really like the bass output that the 210 is giving me from such a small enclosure , not sure if I'm willing to give it up.I have no way to measure so this is just listening impression opinions.
Anyway,I said all that to say this do you guys think I would be much better off to go ahead and get the Eminence woofer that was intended for this build.Or is the Dayton worth working with?
Anyway,I said all that to say this do you guys think I would be much better off to go ahead and get the Eminence woofer that was intended for this build.Or is the Dayton worth working with?
oneinchside
Openly Baffled
As we near 900 posts in this thread, is there a econo-waveguide basic how-to for those who are WAY behind on the learning curve?
I have a set of Sylvania's that I'm just not excited about re-foaming, they seem a bit too big for the indignia's, (which is what I thought of first) and hopefully will work for something along the ewave line. Of course they are sporting massive 8" woofers, I don't know if that falls within the design spec.
is there a post (or string of posts) that I should start with?
I'm just a smidge overwhelmed.
ara:
I have a set of Sylvania's that I'm just not excited about re-foaming, they seem a bit too big for the indignia's, (which is what I thought of first) and hopefully will work for something along the ewave line. Of course they are sporting massive 8" woofers, I don't know if that falls within the design spec.
is there a post (or string of posts) that I should start with?
I'm just a smidge overwhelmed.
ara:
4343
Super Member
Page 1
Start at page 1, the summary links you to just about all but the more esoteric info.
The "design spec" calls for any woofer you want to use, as long as it makes it to the crossover frequency fairly flat. So 8" should work great with the standard e-wave. I'm running a pair of 6.5" in a 2.5 way setup with the JBL 6X6 waveguide, and while that set needs a sub, a single 10" might not. An 8" like the one in my EPI 100's would be fantastic by itself. Not that the EPI's don't sound fantastic already. If the air spring tweeter ever gave out though...:thmbsp:
EDIT> Wait did you say 900 posts? That's a little low! This is post 12,840...
As we near 900 posts in this thread, is there a econo-waveguide basic how-to for those who are WAY behind on the learning curve?
I have a set of Sylvania's that I'm just not excited about re-foaming, they seem a bit too big for the indignia's, (which is what I thought of first) and hopefully will work for something along the ewave line. Of course they are sporting massive 8" woofers, I don't know if that falls within the design spec.
is there a post (or string of posts) that I should start with?
I'm just a smidge overwhelmed.
Start at page 1, the summary links you to just about all but the more esoteric info.
The "design spec" calls for any woofer you want to use, as long as it makes it to the crossover frequency fairly flat. So 8" should work great with the standard e-wave. I'm running a pair of 6.5" in a 2.5 way setup with the JBL 6X6 waveguide, and while that set needs a sub, a single 10" might not. An 8" like the one in my EPI 100's would be fantastic by itself. Not that the EPI's don't sound fantastic already. If the air spring tweeter ever gave out though...:thmbsp:
EDIT> Wait did you say 900 posts? That's a little low! This is post 12,840...
donprice
Wound up workin' at a gas station....
There is additional info on development of the eWave minis over in Tech Talk at Parts Express. One advantage of going with an 8" woofer is that you can move the XO point up to 2000 Hz or so.
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=219975&highlight=minis
This build is for ~.5 ft^3 box and uses the Eminence Beta 8 woofer and D220Ti with a Selenium waveguide.
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1693948#post1693948
Just add a subwoofer somewhere. My minis will be done someday...:thmbsp: