Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
skywave-rider
Slumming in Akihabara
That looks damn good.
I am considering that for my TD12 build.
I also have an extra QSCs, either way.
Do you know the throat angle of the QSC? I read the SEOS are all about 12 degs., IIRC. And that mates to B&C DE250 and BMS 4550, both of which I own. So I feel pretty good about the prospects.
I am considering that for my TD12 build.
I also have an extra QSCs, either way.
Do you know the throat angle of the QSC? I read the SEOS are all about 12 degs., IIRC. And that mates to B&C DE250 and BMS 4550, both of which I own. So I feel pretty good about the prospects.
skywave-rider
Slumming in Akihabara
I remembered you said that. There has been talk about that driver on AVS I believe, regarding the exit angle.
I did download the data sheet on that when you mentioned it some time ago. I am ruling nothing out. No rush on my end.
I heard a demo at AES of 3 tuning forks, LOL, one aluminum, one titanium and another coated with Be. The coating brought the fundamental resonance about an octave higher than the Al without nasty harmonics the Ti fork had. Interesting.
I did download the data sheet on that when you mentioned it some time ago. I am ruling nothing out. No rush on my end.
I heard a demo at AES of 3 tuning forks, LOL, one aluminum, one titanium and another coated with Be. The coating brought the fundamental resonance about an octave higher than the Al without nasty harmonics the Ti fork had. Interesting.
I "almost" had a pair of LE14H-3's recently but it didn't pan out. They were disguised in Harman subs and not labeled as JBL.
So I'm going to build a Standard Ewave with a kit of parts I bought in BarterTown...
I plan on building my own cabinets rather than use the PE trapezoidal cabs.
My question; is the 1.6 cu ft volume on the knock down cab really ideal for the Dayton DC300-8 or should I do something different (larger)? I'd love to be able to get away with the 1.6 size but if a larger cab will produce better results I will go with that.
I plan on building my own cabinets rather than use the PE trapezoidal cabs.
My question; is the 1.6 cu ft volume on the knock down cab really ideal for the Dayton DC300-8 or should I do something different (larger)? I'd love to be able to get away with the 1.6 size but if a larger cab will produce better results I will go with that.
Metrobilly
Member
1.6 is too small. 3-5 cu ft will give you much more extended bass. I had a pair of DC300 in a 5 cu ft box and it worked out very well.
greenmark59
Can ya' hear that?
Found some info on AK about the Dayton DC300-8 cabinet size
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=868406&postcount=3
Probably the best thing to do is download for free WinISD program and put the driver's parameters into it and see what size of cabinet (ported and non-ported) would work well. Looks like 1.6 cubic ft is a bit small for the lowest bass.
greenmark59
Can ya' hear that?
Do a search for some online tools for modelling speaker cabinets, these will at least get you within 90-95% of the optimum.
Thanks Mark, I've found one on diyaudioandvideo.com that I've been futzing with.
It comes up with a 5.8 cu ft box, which I've read elsewhere will cause the woofer to reach its xmax with about 10 watts of input. I guess I need to change the QTC value but I'm not really sure where to target it. Also, I'm not sure what the effective cone diameter is without having the driver in front of me. I'm guessing 10"
I guess I could always call the Tech department at PE for suggestions, they have been helpful in the past.
greenmark59
Can ya' hear that?
Thanks Mark, I've found one on diyaudioandvideo.com that I've been futzing with.
It comes up with a 5.8 cu ft box, which I've read elsewhere will cause the woofer to reach its xmax with about 10 watts of input. I guess I need to change the QTC value but I'm not really sure where to target it. Also, I'm not sure what the effective cone diameter is without having the driver in front of me. I'm guessing 10"
I guess I could always call the Tech department at PE for suggestions, they have been helpful in the past.
Actually those PE guys would probably be very helpful. Give them a try and report back what you have learned.
jackgiff
Well-Known Member
Got my ewave's almost done. Boy they sure sound good! Have to put bracing inside. I have the wood latice covers but i might make some with cloth. Not sure yet.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk
Extremely nice job, Mike. A matching equipment cabinet really sets off a great pair of speakers. Happy listening.
Metrobilly
Member
I used a 5 cu ft box with a 4" ID 4inch long port. I only used this box because it was already built and available. I drove it with Hafler P230 to very loud levels with no big issues. However, if I was to do it again I would use a 3-4 foot ported box. The PE recommendation sounds about right. I ended up tuning the box a bit higher then my modeling program predicted for the best sound.Thanks Mark, I've found one on diyaudioandvideo.com that I've been futzing with.
It comes up with a 5.8 cu ft box, which I've read elsewhere will cause the woofer to reach its xmax with about 10 watts of input. I guess I need to change the QTC value but I'm not really sure where to target it. Also, I'm not sure what the effective cone diameter is without having the driver in front of me. I'm guessing 10"
I guess I could always call the Tech department at PE for suggestions, they have been helpful in the past.
greenmark59
Can ya' hear that?
So basically almost TWICE the size of Large Advents with some ports :scratch2:
The reality is that (short term) I'm going to be powering them with an Eico HF-81 and would probably be hard pressed to get the woofers to bottom out even in a large cabinet at the volumes I listen at. My longer term plan is to build these into a modern version of a console. I would like to think that Zilch would be amused
For some reason I see an image of Spock with one eyebrow arched.Is that how you were running them? I would think the bass would be pretty rolled off in that configuration. Might be perfect for mating to a powered sub though:scratch2:
I guess the Large Advent is pretty close in volume to the KDT cab spec'd for the Standard Econowave, you would just need to add the two ports.
So... for my first 20 minutes attempting to use PCD, I loaded Zilch's files for two drivers from different ewave designs and attempted to combine them.. am I doing it right? See attached, if you use PCD and you're bored. I know, I know, I should go over to techtalk, probably.
edit: if anyone is still going to download this, the values entered in these files are irrelevant and I probably had some offset settings that didn't make sense too, but you could let me know if I'm making other mistakes, eg. entering the crossover components wrong relative to the deluxe+414 schematics I'm basing it on.
edit: if anyone is still going to download this, the values entered in these files are irrelevant and I probably had some offset settings that didn't make sense too, but you could let me know if I'm making other mistakes, eg. entering the crossover components wrong relative to the deluxe+414 schematics I'm basing it on.
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skywave-rider
Slumming in Akihabara
Cool.
I am on jury duty tomorrow sitting in the selection room. That will be a good chance to load that file in. I'll also check over at tech talk. I don't really know how to use PCD yet.
I am on jury duty tomorrow sitting in the selection room. That will be a good chance to load that file in. I'll also check over at tech talk. I don't really know how to use PCD yet.