Resistor heat dissipation,,,
- Thread starter knockbill
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
jaymanaa
RIP 1961-2018
These are snazzy, but you have to watch which power rating you look at, it changes with sinks IIRC. Anyhow, they're cool looking.
http://www.vishay.com/docs/30201/30201.pdf
http://www.vishay.com/docs/30201/30201.pdf
petehall347
the brandy coffee man
is this a trick question ?
ok they will all dissipate the same heat or so theory says so ...:scratch2:
thing is put anyone of them real close to a heat sink and its running temp. drops as the heat is being taken away ...
how it works in practice is voodoo :sigh:
knockbill
Lunatic Member
Knockbill,
You only have a limited number of options, all less than satisfactory. You might want to consider a way of mounting this resistor on top of the chassis in open air. If it carries high voltage, safety is an extra concern. 10w can generate quite a lot of heat under a chassis depending chassis size. At least stay away from capacitors; particularly electrolytics.
You only have a limited number of options, all less than satisfactory. You might want to consider a way of mounting this resistor on top of the chassis in open air. If it carries high voltage, safety is an extra concern. 10w can generate quite a lot of heat under a chassis depending chassis size. At least stay away from capacitors; particularly electrolytics.
knockbill
Lunatic Member
Here's how I handled that,,, really got hot until the vent holes,,, now its barely warm...
Heat sink is an 1/8" off the chassis, so the paint should survive...
Here's the build thread...
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=598368&page=4
Regards,
John
Attachments
Last edited:
jaymanaa
RIP 1961-2018
Me too, you have to look at the different ratings with and without sinks, much like rectifiers and such. The amount of heat will never change, it's just a matter of how much area you spread it out over. As far as keeping the underside of the chassis cool, gravity is your friend. That's why they drill holes around the rectifier and power tube sockets, to get a draft going. You need similar intake vents too, which are best placed on the bottom cover assuming the amp has feets.
knockbill
Lunatic Member
Yep,, I had the amp running most of the afternoon, still gets pretty hot,,, I can put my hand on it, but it puts out some heat...Good winter amp!! Plan is to have 3/4" feet , so air can circulate under from all sides....No bottom either, don't really need it for shielding, as its dead silent... If the paint doesn't discolor/bubble, its probably OK!
Maybe build the next one on an expanded metal chassis!!!
Regards,
John
Maybe build the next one on an expanded metal chassis!!!
Regards,
John
