I repair them. A T3 diode will fit inside the switch, coupled with new wire with a diode and a resistor to one of the secondarys and starground. I think it's a 1N4004 I use with 150kohm outside the switch if I remember correctly with the current T3 I use. I don't like the LED to bright.KNielsen do you repair the original switches on the a,ps you service or have you found a good replacement part?
Looking at my parts I think it's a 100Kohm/3w. But try what you'll find the best. A 56Kohm will be quite brightThanks!

Yes, the center screw is ground between the E.capsThe groung at the E.caps is the metal plate?
I disconnected the thin negative input wire from the negative binding post and cut the ring terminal off to splice a length of wire to reach the screw on the plate between the big power supply caps. After I wiggled the caps out of their brackets I found that screw has leads back to the negative binding posts anyway. Am I in the wrong place?Yes, the center screw is ground between the E.caps
Picture of the RCA connection? Does it have a seperat groundwire directly to starground?I disconnected the thin negative input wire from the negative binding post and cut the ring terminal off to splice a length of wire to reach the screw on the plate between the big power supply caps. After I wiggled the caps out of their brackets I found that screw has leads back to the negative binding posts anyway. Am I in the wrong place?
If this wire is connected directly to starground, that's all you need to do... Some of the newer A250 came with this setup, and don't need this modThis wire went to the negative binding post. Before I cut the ring terminal off I verified that there is a 10Ohm resistor in there with a meter. The wire coming from the binding post that runs along the bottom attaches to the screw in the middle of the plate that I thought was where I was supposed to connect the wire from the input. It seems to me that circuit then was alredy complete, right?
Hum in your speakers or xformer?So I cut the wire for nothing, and I still don't have a solution for the hum...
The newer one that doesn’t hum is the same as far as I can tell, so it’s something else…
The power input looks completely different because of the removable cord but I don’t know how to find any circuit differences