Altec model 19 oak veneer strips replacment
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GD70
Lunatic Member
GD70
Lunatic Member
Looks like red oak. Are you planning to splice in pieces, or remove and replace the entire strip?
I've done both splicing repairs on crushed corners as well as complete re-veneers. You could go either way with your repair.
If you choose to splice in smaller repair pieces, I would suggest sanding the entire strip so when the repairs are done, the stain, or oil will have a uniform color.
Glenn
I've done both splicing repairs on crushed corners as well as complete re-veneers. You could go either way with your repair.
If you choose to splice in smaller repair pieces, I would suggest sanding the entire strip so when the repairs are done, the stain, or oil will have a uniform color.
Glenn
What cabinets did you do repairs on? Was it oak or walnut? I got white oak veneer and it's too light. Is splicing or replacing entire strip easier? I'd say splicing, you could see cut in veneer. I was thinking taking a chisel to remove entire piece of veneer.
Also found this online. Looks like red oak veneer and red oak oil
Also found this online. Looks like red oak veneer and red oak oil
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GD70
Lunatic Member
So far, all have been Walnut, but the procedures I've done would be the same. Mismatched wood types will be more difficult to color match with stain. I know Home Depot sells strips of red oak veneer, maybe 3/4 wide that may work for you. I would do the entire strip, not try to splice in pieces.
Before you start chiseling the old veneer, use an iron on the veneer to loosen the glue. It should peel off fairly easily, and keep damage to a minimum on the MDF surface.
Glenn
donprice
Wound up workin' at a gas station....
You will probably need to experiment with adding a touch of stain to the new oak to match the old oak which tends to darken over time. The Minwax Golden Oak or something similar may be a good place to start. Blend with the "Natural" stain if you need to go lighter. To state the obvious, experiment on the veneer strips before you put them on the cabinet so you can toss your mistakes. Keep in mind that replacing all of the edging on a cabinet face will help hide the differences.
Are you going to re-oil the rest of the cabinets?
Are you going to re-oil the rest of the cabinets?
Yes I will sand and re oil entire cabs. I think doing that before trying to match new color of veneer strips would be best to get match correct. I have watco oak teak oil for cabs. Hopefully after I sand rest of cabinets it will reveal a lighter oak underneath and match new strips good. Since cabs are oiled not clear coat, what can I use to color strips? Can you use stain then watco?
GD70
Lunatic Member
I've mixed in some Minwax stains while oiling the cab surface to achieve the desired color. Add the stain a tiny bit at a time.
kaplang
Works for me !
I spoke to Minwax this morning about a veneer project I am doing. Their Minwax jell stain is what they recommend to be used to stain veneer. Not the stain in the yellow can.
donprice
Wound up workin' at a gas station....
I've never used the Jell stain since it is also recommended for non-wood surfaces like metal and fiberglass. That sounds more like paint to me. Of course the Minwax folks might know more about their products than I do
kaplang
Works for me !
Of course the Minwax folks might know more about their products than I do
That's what you would think. I had to call them twice. The first person I spoke too recommended the jell but didn't really know what veneer was. He thought it was made like plywood with wood pieces glued together which it's not. I couldn't believe I had to explain to him what veneer was. The second time I spoke to a woman who also recommended the jell. She said that the jell was better for veneer due to the grain being more open and the jell would give a more even finish. That made sense to me and the jell also has "for veneer" on the can and the stain in the yellow can dosent. I am going to try the jell on my current project and see if I like it better.
GD70
Lunatic Member
Yes.
