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Calling All Yamahas. Time to Post Your Pics

Yamaha's

No longer use the 2405 slots as I now have a passive equalizer/attenuator circuit on the 902A. Also swap out the JBL2226's for JBL-SUB1500's periodically as I can't decide which is best overall. The 2226's are best for Jazz but the SUB1500's are best for theater/synths that have very low frequencys. Also not shown is my Yamaha PX-3 w/Yamaha MC-3 moving coil and C2a combo that I use for vinyl. Also have a third B-2 and Yamaha DSP-3000 used for surround.
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MX-2000 vs B-2

The MX-2000 is a MOSFET design and at first glance is an 'all out' implementation (copper clad & shielded chassis, heavy duty binding posts, large meters, 22000uf caps, extra large heat sinks, rosewood side panels, machined-not stamped-titanium case, 61 lbs, etc) but on closer look the B-2 (in my opinion) is superior. I say this based on comparing them physically as I haven’t done a side by side listening comparison. The MX-2000 is capable of 130w RMS per channel into 8 ohms @ .005%THD or 180w RMS per channel into 4 ohms @.01%THD. My pair of JBL 2226’s are high efficiency but are 16ohms and need the extra power the MX-2000 provides so I relegated it to subwoofer duty right off the bat. On the other hand the JBL SU1500’s (designed and built by JBL for Revell for use in their Sub1500) are not as efficient but are 4ohms and as a result, they need the extra power as well continuing to dictate that the MX-2000 by the subwoofer amp.

The differences I see between the two is mainly in the power supply. I believe the power supply is the key to amplifier performance/dynamics. The MX-2000 has a single power transformer and two 22,000uf power supply storage caps for a total of 44,000uf so both stereo channels are fed by a single power supply. The B-2 has two separate power supplies. Each side has a power transformers and two 18,000uf power supply storage caps per side for 36,000uf or 72,000uf total for side. The B-2 has almost twice the power storage capacity supported by two power transformers. This reservoir of power is a significant factor contributing to the dynamic performance of the B-2, that’s not to say the MX-2000 is a slouch, (again I haven’t compared them side to side) but on paper the B-2 has it beat hands down in addition to the VFET outputs.

Prior to acquiring the B-2’s (which I coveted since I heard them when they first came out but could afford) I had a pair of Yamaha M-4’s. They we good, but didn’t have the punch and effortlessness the B-2’s had. As a result, I build a pair of outboard capacitor banks (complete with soft start etc.). One bank had 240,000uf of storage and the other 272,000uf of storage in addition to the 20,000uf (I think it was 20k?) onboard in the amps. The result was a punchy, solid pair of amps, the B-2’s were only better at the top end of the frequency spectrum. I sold them when I acquired the B-2’s and the guy who bought them called me a few months later to thank me again. Nothing I’ve heard through the years has the sweet sound of the B-2, vintage SS/tube or new so-called ‘high-end’ (where there is more money devoted to ‘cosmetics’ and ‘style’ than in electronics or electronics design).
 
That's all some nice looking equipment. :thmbsp:

Here are shots of my A-560 integrated (55 wpc) - bought new in '81 and drove a pair of Heresys for many years. The G9000DB is acting up a little so I put it away last weekend until I can get some TLC for it. Hooked this amp back up and I'm still very satisfied with it - and it handles the stacked Bostons (A100 over A150) pretty well.

Alan
 

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mhardy6647 said:
I don't think they were sold new in the US (unless you know otherwise), and most of the blackface Yamahas of that era I've seen on a certain on-line auction site appear to have come from (or, more accurately, through) Canada.

....

I agree - I've seen 2 of them in person in pawn shops up here, and the only ones on epay have been from up here. I don't think it's much more than a 30wpc receiver, but it does look nice. I really wish they had offered the CA-1010 CT-1010 combo in a black face too, but I guess that is what the C2/T2 was for. :yes:

Here's a pic - the inside of a CA-2010....came from here before the server crash.

(Can't find any pics of my own CA-1010 or C2 preamp....)
 

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Packrat, thanks for that pic. Now I can compare the insides of the 2010 with my 1010 for when I finally get around to checking the bias. I agree, a blackface 1010 would have looked slick.
Tom
 
I'll respond for packrat, as that is my CA-2010 sitting on the floor of my listening room something over a year ago. Is a pic from the old server. Great piece!! :thmbsp: And, as you can see, well shielded internally. I had my last one recapped by EW and it was terrific. Especially the phono stage with the BGs in it. I use a muffin fan on top of the heatsinks as it runs quite hot in Class A mode. Too hot for my tastes. When it comes time to downsize again (as it always does) I will go with another EW recapped CA-2010 and a CT-7000. Or a Sony TA-5650 and ST-5000FW, or a.........
 
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Heh. Then I thank you as well, sir :) I'm tackling checking the bias this very evening, so it will come in handy. There's no offset adjustment, unfortunately. I also have felt the heat coming off my 1010 in Class A: barbecue grill temps :no:. But I have already used it in Class A once or twice to take the chill off a too-chilly listening room as the world's best-sounding electric space heater!
Tom
 
When EW recapped the CA-2010 he replaced the pukie little adjustment pots with some real ones. Bourns 20-turn trimpots. Are only a few bucks, each, and will allow much easier adjustment. Is not unusual to find the stock pots to be froze or ineffective. And, toss a muffin fan on top. Will do wonders for your long-term listening pleasure (and peace-of-mind).
 
Glad to see that the 2010 pic owner has come forward - hope you didn't mind...

I found my own CA-1010 pic, with the preamp shielding off. The crayon is there for size reference! I also included the spec page from the manual. I still have to get to mine to change the meter lamps and set the bias. Too bad they didn't include a balance adjustment. Is it something that can be added easily, or is putting in matched driver transistors the only way here?
 

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Only difference that I can see is the larger X-former in the CA-2010. That probably comes close to making up the 6 pounds of weight difference between the two units. This entire series of integrated amps is top-notch. :thmbsp:
 
One more bit here on the 1010/2010...
Even though it's not symetrical looking inside, with a central transfomer and dual power supplies etc, the way top end Kenwoods are, the placement of everything is for minimizing hum and noise. So, the power transformer and power supply board go way to the left, the power amp sits in the middle, the phono stage board is right at the back near the RCAs, the main preamp is forward a bit, and the switches are operated through those shafts. Minimal to no internal wiring, very unlike some of the top Kenwoods that have a bundle of input wires going forward from the rear panel to the front preamp. (Some later Kenwoods used shafts going to the rear panel.) Anyway, given that a Kenwood KA-9100 can sell for two or three times as much I think the 010 is still undervalued.

BTW, the MC head amp in the 1010 can be adjusted for minimum distortion! You'll need a distortion meter and a signal generator, but the service manual spells it all out. :yes:
 
Yamaha B-2 said:
Only difference that I can see is the larger X-former in the CA-2010. That probably comes close to making up the 6 pounds of weight difference between the two units. This entire series of integrated amps is top-notch. :thmbsp:

Top notch for sure! I hadn't noticed the transformer size difference before - good point. I think there are probably many circuit differences because they don't share a service manual. I do know that the 2010 uses a different volume pot, and has some type of op-amp in the meter circuit that the 1010 doesn't have. There was a nearly $300 price increase from the 1010 to the 2010 when new, so something is going on in there! I'd love a 2010, but for what they go for I'll settle for a C-2/M-4 combo.
 
Packrat? I do believe it was you that kindly supplied me with the 1010's specs, schematics and bias adjustment instructions, yes? They worked like a charm, and I thank you. The bias values I found on mine weren't even in the ballpark: (both channels: Class A:30mV found, 280mV is desired! Class B:3mV found, 25mV is desired). Twenty minutes of adjusting now has it in spec. Added bonus was a small drop in DC offset values:) (Lch: 32.5mV->31mV; Rch: 28.5mV->21mV) Time to listen to see if it makes a difference!
Thank you again.
Tom
 
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packrat said:
Top notch for sure! I hadn't noticed the transformer size difference before - good point. I think there are probably many circuit differences because they don't share a service manual. I do know that the 2010 uses a different volume pot, and has some type of op-amp in the meter circuit that the 1010 doesn't have. There was a nearly $300 price increase from the 1010 to the 2010 when new, so something is going on in there! I'd love a 2010, but for what they go for I'll settle for a C-2/M-4 combo.
Yes, the CA-2010 used an ALPS volume control. Is about the best thing going for same (unless you go to stepped precision resistors). I recall EW telling me that he was learning a couple of tricks or three from the CA-2010, but he didn't comment any further than to tell me he was keeping the service manual for same. Must be something in there he liked. :thmbsp:
 
OvenMaster said:
Packrat? I do believe it was you that kindly supplied me with the 1010's specs, schematics and bias adjustment instructions, yes? They worked like a charm, and I thank you. ......

No problem.... Those settings were very far off the mark to start - wonder how that happens? Good to know you got it all fixed up proper!
 
packrat said:
Glad to see that the 2010 pic owner has come forward - hope you didn't mind...

I found my own CA-1010 pic, with the preamp shielding off. The crayon is there for size reference! I also included the spec page from the manual. I still have to get to mine to change the meter lamps and set the bias. Too bad they didn't include a balance adjustment. Is it something that can be added easily, or is putting in matched driver transistors the only way here?

How the heck did you get the shielding off? I tried once but could not figure it out.. that and how to get to the pots to clean them ??

Thanks - Bernard
 
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