I have two 1250’s and have never listened to a 16.5 either, but have read that it sounds noticeably better than the 1250. I just can’t warm up to the looks and the lack of an aux input is also a minus. Plus, I would imagine that parts and schematics are more readily available for the Pioneer. If I had to own only one, it would probably be the 1250.
Good news about components, but what about service info and schematics? I have a (loosely) related Reference receiver and I cannot find any service info for it, so I assume this is the case for Concept?As far as repairs, there are no unobtainium parts. It runs metal die T-03 outputs so replacements can be easily found.
I know this is old, but had to comment.
It's pretty sad about the concept receivers.
Everybody says there the best.
SoCal Sam is there.
There a great performing receiver but there not great.
A great receiver has serviceability. The company is done and pacific stereo holds all the service info.
I would love service info and specs for my 16.5 and 5.5 and would pay for it but I heard it's only on microphiesh or whatever, not printed.
But the second you talk about does anyone know about bias, test points, etc, it's crickets chirping.
Even when a thread is strong all you have to say is who's got a service doc for it and the thread falls off the cliff.
Top secret for eyes only. They'll all tell you how great it is but mum's the word when it comes to service.
So, not really so great.
Jimbo us right. I believe the owner of Tapeheads, Pacific Stereo gas all the info as he is a tech and has claimed he has had every job at PS. But folks can't seem to get amp set up info, keeping it so folks get him to do the service I guess. Just line some of the high end brands, keeping the inner workings proprietary but not to the point of removing transistor IDs as some companies do.
Shouldn't be impossible to set one up using a scope. But who does that.
I've owned three 16.5s and one SX-1250. I still have the SX-1250.
In my honest opinion, the 11.0 was a better sounding unit than the 16.5, which is a great sounding receiver.
20 mA?
Should we be talking mV?
Also let me reiterate on my opinion of the 16.5
I was on a pissed off rant before about the top secret keeping of the documents.
But let me get to my opinion of the actual machine.
I don't buy that any other concept model can sound better than the dual mono build of the 16.5.
Mine is original still, so it would be even much better rebuilt bringing all components back to spec.
That being said, this receiver is pretty ugly.
The lack of aux input has not been an issue, use tape in if I remember.
My comparison is with the pioneer sx 1980 which I still have.
McIntosh mc2205.
Soundcraftsmen ma5002.
And than the concept 16.5
The concept 16.5 has it all.
It can easily compete with and exceed the the sound quality of the top gear of it's era.
It's damping factor of 400 seems like just a number, but when it comes to handling the the woofer with those big bass hits, it seems to do it in spades.
I believe that the 16.5 is a legendary receiver.
A true enigma that was designed by an engineer who was looking to put in what the others left out.
I feel that the 16.5 is one of the best receiver ever made period.
For my collection, this receiver will be fully restored and have the #1 or 2 spot, right next to the pioneer sx 1980.
Don't screw them up guy's by guessing your specs on the aggressive side, take your time, ask lots of questions until you get the right answers.
Probably. I was referencing the actual bias current. It would be measured as voltage across an emitter resistor as 20mA * 0.5(0.47 ohm) = 10mV which is what I set it for. The recommended method involves setting the bias pot fully CCW and using a 10kHz signal and about 2V output level into an 8 ohm load, adjust clockwise until the distortion (as measured on a distortion analyzer) is minimized. I found the this was around 4.5mV and at 40kHz it was 13mV. So just settled on the 10mV as a nice round number. The heatsink barely gets warm at this setting.20 mA?
Should we be talking mV?
Great information.Probably. I was referencing the actual bias current. It would be measured as voltage across an emitter resistor as 20mA * 0.5(0.47 ohm) = 10mV which is what I set it for. The recommended method involves setting the bias pot fully CCW and using a 10kHz signal and about 2V output level into an 8 ohm load, adjust clockwise until the distortion (as measured on a distortion analyzer) is minimized. I found the this was around 4.5mV and at 40kHz it was 13mV. So just settled on the 10mV as a nice round number. The heatsink barely gets warm at this setting.