Cornwall II crossover rebuild?
- Thread starter bolero
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geoff.27
Active Member
Are your crossovers the “Playskool” breadboard build or are they on the input cup?
Years ago I bought some Crites CW2 boards, and without a doubt they were brighter across each driver. More of everything. The authorized vendor polyester caps weren’t even a gleam in anyone’s eye then. I think the complete Crites boards only cost about twice what the JEM kit sells for now! Polyester caps are very inexpensive to try, even if you wind up having to parallel them to get the correct value. But the CW2 values are readily available in 3 and 1.5 uF, you could still use an even cheaper electrolytic for the 68.
I had and still have a pair of Chorus 2 crossovers off of eBay that I did the cheap polyester and electrolytic swap on. Honestly, I was disappointed I heard no discernible difference when it was all said and done. I kept the originals to compare and for resale.
From what I can tell the JEM/polyester cap route is more suited and appreciated in the older crossovers with the “cans” and K-55 drivers.
The titanium tweeter diaphragms were the biggest improvement from where I sit. I would have probably been happy with just that in retrospect. I tried the Klipsch K-107ti tweeters too, but they were too much. As it stands now, Dave A’s MAHLs and DE120 drivers now reside in all my Klipsch speakers in active rotation.
I know you only asked about crossovers, but I think my money would have been better spent on Crites woofers and titanium tweeter diaphragms. The woofers immediately bring the bass noticeably lower in anything a K-33 (or K-34 in the case of the CW2) reside in and combined with sweeter highs were really a game changer. And they are all reversible if you decide to sell.
Having said all that the JEM capacitor path would probably hold the resale value of your speakers better than any other crossover mod apart from leaving them stock. But where’s the fun in that?
Regarding bracing the cabinets, I thought my ‘86 Cornwall 2s had a 2x4 front to back?
Or are your Cornwall 2s the much older version with the removable backs?
Years ago I bought some Crites CW2 boards, and without a doubt they were brighter across each driver. More of everything. The authorized vendor polyester caps weren’t even a gleam in anyone’s eye then. I think the complete Crites boards only cost about twice what the JEM kit sells for now! Polyester caps are very inexpensive to try, even if you wind up having to parallel them to get the correct value. But the CW2 values are readily available in 3 and 1.5 uF, you could still use an even cheaper electrolytic for the 68.
I had and still have a pair of Chorus 2 crossovers off of eBay that I did the cheap polyester and electrolytic swap on. Honestly, I was disappointed I heard no discernible difference when it was all said and done. I kept the originals to compare and for resale.
From what I can tell the JEM/polyester cap route is more suited and appreciated in the older crossovers with the “cans” and K-55 drivers.
The titanium tweeter diaphragms were the biggest improvement from where I sit. I would have probably been happy with just that in retrospect. I tried the Klipsch K-107ti tweeters too, but they were too much. As it stands now, Dave A’s MAHLs and DE120 drivers now reside in all my Klipsch speakers in active rotation.
I know you only asked about crossovers, but I think my money would have been better spent on Crites woofers and titanium tweeter diaphragms. The woofers immediately bring the bass noticeably lower in anything a K-33 (or K-34 in the case of the CW2) reside in and combined with sweeter highs were really a game changer. And they are all reversible if you decide to sell.
Having said all that the JEM capacitor path would probably hold the resale value of your speakers better than any other crossover mod apart from leaving them stock. But where’s the fun in that?
Regarding bracing the cabinets, I thought my ‘86 Cornwall 2s had a 2x4 front to back?
Or are your Cornwall 2s the much older version with the removable backs?
bolero
Super Member
I haven't unpiled everything to get at them yet ( they are the bottom speakers in a 3 speaker high stack, with lamps & assorted crap on top ) but I don't believe the backs are removable. I have to get in through the speaker holes.
I don't recall seeing a front-back brace in there, but it was a while ago I peeked in. For sure the caps could use an upgrade, and I want to check the wiring & make sure everything is correct. I'm having odd bass issues that are probably phase/wiring related.
I'm not sure what crossover is in there.
Thanks!!
I don't recall seeing a front-back brace in there, but it was a while ago I peeked in. For sure the caps could use an upgrade, and I want to check the wiring & make sure everything is correct. I'm having odd bass issues that are probably phase/wiring related.
I'm not sure what crossover is in there.
Thanks!!
