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Denon DP80 & DP75 Owner's Thread

Thanks for the kind words guys :beerchug:

The Acoustand plinth did hurt the wallet a bit but it was cheaper than the price listed on their site since I went with the single tonearm version. When I bought it I had just sold 90% of my records to a local record store (I held back around 75 of my favorite/best albums) so I had some money in the hobby budget. I know, it sounds odd to have sold off nearly my entire record collection then put all this time and money into a new turntable. Those 75 or or so albums I held back I had intended to play on a cheaper table from time to time and mostly stream music but I couldn't do it. I saw this thread and all the great DP80 setups you guys had in here and started looking for a motor unit :rflmao:

I had nearly 1000 albums before the sell off and honestly it was too much for me personally. I'd sit and stare at the record shelves and have no idea what to play, it was overwhelming. I find it nicer to just have my favorite albums on the best possible pressings and for the collection to be much smaller. I have a little flip-through record bin on a separate shelf unit next to the wall-mounted DP80 shelf. It holds about 75 records so it's perfect. I've bought some more albums since the sell-off, another 20 or so, and I just rotate what's in the bin near the turntable.

I'm the opposite, I have about 1000 records that I've been collecting since my childhood and without these records no turntable matters. If for some reason I'll loose them I won't buy them back. It would be money & time consuming plus the specific copies of these albums carry memories no 180gr audiophile edition has.

Not Denon but instead Victor or JVC. It's a Japanese CL2P constrained layer plinth made for two arm boards. Since the constrained layer arm boards are hard to find I came up with my own system of interchangeable tonearms. The armboards were replaced with 3/4" thick aluminum plates that were machined to except 1/4 thick aluminum plates that are retained by (6) 10-32 machine screws. I can take the arm and plate off as a unit and swap in another one in 5 minutes and be ready to play.

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BillWojo

Victor tables are great, before I settled on the DP80 I wanted the 101. I'd be happy with the 81 too if I knew it would be turning for the next 20 years but some online posts about their IC's made me rethink about it.

Which one you have? Is the plinth similar to this?

 
KostasP the JVC aren't the first or last turntable that we are warned will end up being a door stop. Any table worth fixing there will be a solution and the JVCs are no exception. A good example were the Technics SP-15. Much of this doom and gloom is from folks that want to sell you rheir new turntable. That aside the DP-80 is an excellent choice that was marketed for the professional and high end consumer market and if maintained and treated well you will be passing on to your grandchildren.
 
KostasP the JVC aren't the first or last turntable that we are warned will end up being a door stop. Any table worth fixing there will be a solution and the JVCs are no exception. A good example were the Technics SP-15. Much of this doom and gloom is from folks that want to sell you rheir new turntable. That aside the DP-80 is an excellent choice that was marketed for the professional and high end consumer market and if maintained and treated well you will be passing on to your grandchildren.

Ι don't disagree but being in Greece I know no one who would touch the 101 even though I've seen a local guy who owns one but I've failed to get in contact with him. Actually I know no one in Europe who would attempt to service such a complicated table like the 101. On the other hand I have an expert on Denons who's local so that made me turn to the Denon tables.

Owners of the SP-15 are lucky because (if I'm not mistaken) a new chip was created for the SP-10MK3 and since the SP-15 has the same chip was benefited too. I wish someone would do the same for the 101 and other tables. It's a shame seeing otherwise mint tables not working because of a chip.
 
Key to this is that tables like the JVC 101 were mfg in significant enough numbers to make this practical to make replacement chips when the cost of a new table equal to the JVC 101 is many times a lot higher to purchase. As for skill if someone is able to work on a Denon no reason they can't work on a JVC, Sony Technics etc.
 
Made them myself, tool maker in my early years and now a machine tool service tech. Still love designing and building things though. Used my buddys shop.

@KostasP , that is the exact same plinth that I have, I'm using the TT71 motor drive that I purchased from an AK member here. Before he put it up for sale he went completely through it, replaced the caps and tuned it up. Nice thing about the TT71 drive is that they are not near as complex as the TT101 yet the specs are very close. Victor (JVC) made some of the best turntable motors and drives with a reputation for longevity and speed accuracy. Plus there are a lot more of the TT71 out there in the world and a good tech can repair them if needed. The TT101? I know of one guy in the states and he really doesn't want to work on them anymore.

BillWojo
 
Owners of the SP-15 are lucky because (if I'm not mistaken) a new chip was created for the SP-10MK3 and since the SP-15 has the same chip was benefited too. I wish someone would do the same for the 101 and other tables. It's a shame seeing otherwise mint tables not working because of a chip.

101 doesn’t really have a chip problem. Most of the component failures are due to folks working on them and not fully understanding the ramifications of certain actions. For the clock IC specifically, if you hot plug the clock line while troubleshooting or calibrating, it will blow. I could create a replacement, but it’s just not worth the time. The only reason the FA6042 became worthwhile was due to SP-15s.

The board itself is where all the gremlins in the 101 hide.
 
Because these systems are primarily digital.

I guess one could argue that the clock is digital, and some units do employ logic circuits for some functions, but for the most part they are analog electronics, particularly the servo and drive systems. Excluding units like the new Technics models, of course.
 
I guess one could argue that the clock is digital, and some units do employ logic circuits for some functions, but for the most part they are analog electronics, particularly the servo and drive systems. Excluding units like the new Technics models, of course.
Yes. My experience is many techs who are good with analog will not touch digital. I have not found the reverse to be true.
 
Yes. My experience is many techs who are good with analog will not touch digital. I have not found the reverse to be true.

I’ve not found the reverse to be true, but I’m guessing our definitions of what digital, and therefore a digital tech, is, is likely different.
 
Other than the needs of professionals in broadcasting/recording/transcribing with added torque for quicker start up and pitch control is there a noticeable difference in SQ between the Denon DP-80 that has these features and the DP-75 that lacks them? This based on using the same plinth/tonearm/cartridge for comparison. Seems like the DP-80 is the pro model and the DP-75 was geared for the consumer market. As a good friend put it the succeeding model (DP-75) usually is the result of further development being able to get just about equal results but in a simpler/cheaper method.
 
And I thought the only difference between the DP-75 and DP-80 is (like the Yamaha D8 & D10) the quartz-lock feature of the DP-80 (and D10).
 
As you might recall, my DP-80 was professionally serviced by Peter Noerbeck as it had issues beyond rotted foam and such I might have dealt with myself. Peter has rebuilt many of these drives so perhaps I will send him a message and ask him about spring adjustment in the platter. My drive was "virgin" when I got it, if electronically-challenged.

Good idea (and hello again). I thought of a new analogy, and you might use it with Peter — there are 15 screws in total, securing the 2 parts to each other, and if all 15 are torqued-down hard, you might as well WELD the 2 parts together... in which case, why not just use a 1-part platter, a single piece of metal? Why have those leaf-springs at all?

I also refined my "instructions" a bit — loosen 2 and 4, and push down on the rim — the upper platter will sink down just a bit (maybe 1mm) and it should have a "soft landing" on the foam pads. The foam is there to damp vibrations at the rim, which is most prone to vibrate.

If your foam pads are rotted, you will feel a metal-to-metal contact when you push the upper-platter down.

You'll let us know what he says, won't you Fid?

Did we ever hear back from Peter on this?

When I got my DP80 from Japan it was in incredible condition with the transport screws in place etc, all the original foam was rotted, and the spring screws were tightened down as tight as possible. When I replaced my foam I tightened the screws down but the whole time I was doing it I couldn't help but think "how can these possibly be doing anything close to suspending this inner platter if they are completely tightened?"
 
Regarding the DK-2300 plinth: The front position accepts 9" - 12" arms, the back position accepts a 10" or only 9" arms?
 
Hi everyone, I've been thinking of getting a DP 75.One question I have is about the 401 and the 402 tonearms. How good are they? I know the 401 is an ultra lightwieght arm, but thats about it. Finding info on these is difficult
 
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