I am considering splurging for a Hakko FR301 for a recap project. Is it worth it or can I get by with something less spendy?
Desolder Tool Recommendations
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I bought one to recap my Onkyo M-508 amp, it was worth every penny, but be careful about staying on too long, you can lift a trace that way.
restorer-john
Addicted Member
You're going to buy a Hakko FR301 for a one time recap project?
In all my years of doing electronics, even now with a small Electronics business, I have never needed a dedicated desoldering tool.
I guess if you do a lot of repairs as a business or hobby, meaning lots of desoldering, then a desoldering tool makes economical sense.
Here's a desoldering tip. Instead of trying to suck the solder out of the holes with the component installed, in the solder side of the PCB, use a small piece of solid lead wire, bridge it across the leads, fill with solder so both leads get hot and solder flows, pull the component out. Then remove the left over solder blocking the holes. I use an old soldapullt, it works just fine.
In all my years of doing electronics, even now with a small Electronics business, I have never needed a dedicated desoldering tool.
I guess if you do a lot of repairs as a business or hobby, meaning lots of desoldering, then a desoldering tool makes economical sense.
Here's a desoldering tip. Instead of trying to suck the solder out of the holes with the component installed, in the solder side of the PCB, use a small piece of solid lead wire, bridge it across the leads, fill with solder so both leads get hot and solder flows, pull the component out. Then remove the left over solder blocking the holes. I use an old soldapullt, it works just fine.
I have a ZD-915 as well, and am happy with it. The only issue I have is that it’s very hard to find replacement filters, especially the larger one for where the vacuum tube attaches to the base unit. Does anyone have any suppliers for those?
I haven't seen the larger ones (Duratool D00760) but mine originally came with a few spares and they don't seem to get dirty so I have yet to change it out. The smaller ones (Duratool D00759) are available at Newark.com for about $0.18 each and i change that one out regularly . . . .
Thanks for all the replies!
Yes, I would initially buy the tool for this one recap project, but who knows where this hobby will take me. I'm a bit of a tool collector anyway and I also work on pinball machines which require the occasional desolder. Also looking at recapping my KG-4s and a pair of Pioneer CS-55s.
Right now it's on sale on Amazon for about $210. I did read on the page that it's only intended to be used at 100V and that if run on US 120V for too long, the pump will die. I can get a step-down transformer for $60 or so but that just adds to the cost. Are there 120V versions that I'm missing?
Yes, I would initially buy the tool for this one recap project, but who knows where this hobby will take me. I'm a bit of a tool collector anyway and I also work on pinball machines which require the occasional desolder. Also looking at recapping my KG-4s and a pair of Pioneer CS-55s.
Right now it's on sale on Amazon for about $210. I did read on the page that it's only intended to be used at 100V and that if run on US 120V for too long, the pump will die. I can get a step-down transformer for $60 or so but that just adds to the cost. Are there 120V versions that I'm missing?
You are looking at the ones for Japan, they do make U.S. models, mine shows 120V to 140V:
can't post ebay link. drop this into google
79-5519
or drop this into ebay search for a usa seller. zd985 uses same filters
Large (21 mm) Filter for Desoldering Station ZD-985, Pack of 10
Get one direct from Japan ($160-180 last time I looked) and run it off your variac set to 100V. You do have a variac, don't you? If not, you need one. You're welcome
Alternatively, there's a mod that lets you convert your 100V unit to 120V operation by swapping a couple resistors. It's been discussed here, but the variac is so convenient I haven't felt the need to do the mod (yet)
restorer-john
Addicted Member
I gotta agree with this. I use/used handheld solder suckers for 99.5% of my work and have done for over 50 years. Wick is so rarely used, I sill have the original first roll I bought maybe 40 years ago. About 10 years ago I bought a Hakko desoldering unit and it doesn't get used to be honest. Too heavy and awkward. Then I got a nice Chinese one which sits on the bench, looks good, works fine (actually really good), but again, it very rarely gets used. Mainly for multilayer boards or lead free multilayer desoldering- which is rare in vintage to modern HiFi.
Sure, for some PbFree through-hole, but again, that is rare- most is PbFree SMD and that's better handled with adding some 60/40 and using a conventional iron and sucker/tweezers or hot air rework.
There's nothing more precise than a soldering iron and various suckers you have got to know and love. I probably have about a dozen and three or four are always at hand. I can take out a 40 pin DIP with an iron and a sucker faster than any vacuum station and with way less clean-up and time wasted later with filters, glass cleaning and unblocking.
A solder sucker in the right hands (not mine) can definitely do a perfectly fine job, and you gotta respect folks who get the job done with simple tools from another age. Like lumberjacks felling giant trees with a two-man saw, or guys framing an entire house with hammers.
I use my Hakko for 99% of my desoldering tasks - but, for the record, everything the Hakko does I can do with solder wick (I had a sucker once, it promptly ended in the trash can). Wick is great, but the Hakko is faster.
If I ever have to desolder another vintage Krell PCB, nothing but the Hakko will do. However, wick does a better job cleaning out the pads after components have been removed.
Different folks have different experiences and preferences and it's all good.
But the point of this thread is that OP expressed interest in not only the Hakko but also in the hobby in general. So why not encourage him to get the best tools for the job, ensuring he has a positive experience doing his first big project, so that he joins the hobby for good and we get to read his threads here on audiokarma for years to come?
I use my Hakko for 99% of my desoldering tasks - but, for the record, everything the Hakko does I can do with solder wick (I had a sucker once, it promptly ended in the trash can). Wick is great, but the Hakko is faster.
If I ever have to desolder another vintage Krell PCB, nothing but the Hakko will do. However, wick does a better job cleaning out the pads after components have been removed.
Different folks have different experiences and preferences and it's all good.
But the point of this thread is that OP expressed interest in not only the Hakko but also in the hobby in general. So why not encourage him to get the best tools for the job, ensuring he has a positive experience doing his first big project, so that he joins the hobby for good and we get to read his threads here on audiokarma for years to come?
restorer-john
Addicted Member
That's a very good point. A truly excellent tool in the hands of someone learning can only serve to help.
I remember my first temperature controlled soldering iron- it was a revelation.
Great thoughts, everyone, and excellent points. I appreciate all the input.
Um...no... and now I am lost in all the various Variac models. Which one is recommended? The 500VA model? 1000? 2000? So much to learn.You do have a variac, don't you? If not, you need one. You're welcome
Will dig around some more, thanks!
An inexpensive Chinese red one like this will do. Get one with a digital voltmeter because the analog ones are useless, and free shipping because they're heavy. There are tons of them on eBay too.
Bear in mind that a variac's output is not regulated, so voltage will drop as current increases. After adjusting for Chinese ratings tolerances, a 2000VA unit will probably power a 1000W load at 120V. But that should cover 99% of devices you might be testing.
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Great, thanks. What else would I need to drop the voltage for besides trying to run a Japanese model of a Hakkor?
