Looking for desolder tool recommendations
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I use solder braid with some success; the brands vary a lot, and you have to develop a technique. The suckers, bulb or spring loaded, haven't worked well for me except in rare cases where there is lots of solder to remove.
Basically you have to melt the solder and, while liquid, get it away from the joint. This is complicated by the fact that the circuit loves solder and won't let go of it.
Basically you have to melt the solder and, while liquid, get it away from the joint. This is complicated by the fact that the circuit loves solder and won't let go of it.
qprhooligan
Well-Known Member
Why don't you like the RS solder suckers?
westend
Audiopile
soldapullit is a favorite. I sometimes use braid and sometimes use the Ratshack bulb desoldering iron. Different tools for different purposes.
Echowars posted about the Hakko desoldering station, awhile back, and that is probably the ultimate. A little spendy for a hobbiest doing only a few projects, though.
Echowars posted about the Hakko desoldering station, awhile back, and that is probably the ultimate. A little spendy for a hobbiest doing only a few projects, though.
2nd the soldapullit and solderwik braid..
I hear they don't work after a short time. Something wrong with the tips, they melt or something. I also can't say I have been impressed with Rat Shack stuff or more importantly, their prices. (Although I would not mind picking up a vintage pair of their best speakers or their best vintage receiver on the cheap, but that's a bird of a different color).
Yeah, I'd like to get a desolder station, but yes, too pricey for the hobbiest which is me at best.
I will go with the one you recommended since it seems to be getting votes.
similost
Rockin and Rollin....
Hold item to be desoldered in one hand... heat up joint to be desoldered, then give the part or board a good shake to fling the melted solder off..
Believe it or not, some times that is my method if the part isn't heavy or there isn't places the solder can go into other parts..
Believe it or not, some times that is my method if the part isn't heavy or there isn't places the solder can go into other parts..
jhinkel
Super Member
I completely agree that the soldapullit and solderwik are the best options.
mashaffer
Super Member
Works OK for circuit boards but I have found the technique kind of tricky when working on a 50 pound amplifier chassis.
mike
ohhwell
Mr Edit Button
I have a Radio Shack Plunger Based desoldering tool that I have used for at least 8 years now. I use my Hot Air station and it at the same time and it is very efficient. Even now I still forget myself and tilt it down before clearing the board and little bits of solder fall all over.
On a side note, I went in to Radio Shack yesterday to get a resistor and my wife got attacked by a saesman trying to bully her into switching our cell phones over to T-Mobile or something. Even after she told him that we were perfectly happy with our plan. I pretty much expect to get the Cell Phone sales pitch when I go in there but this was insane.
Radio Shack aint like it used to be...
On a side note, I went in to Radio Shack yesterday to get a resistor and my wife got attacked by a saesman trying to bully her into switching our cell phones over to T-Mobile or something. Even after she told him that we were perfectly happy with our plan. I pretty much expect to get the Cell Phone sales pitch when I go in there but this was insane.
Radio Shack aint like it used to be...
You said it! Nothing like it used to be! I remember back in the day that there was just electronic parts and supplies and the occasional gear of one stripe or another. I also remember there was always some old guy on staff that was an old hand at things electronic who would provide info and such.
Now days it's just overly aggressive sales of garbage and cell phone plans and kids who wouldn't know what a speaker cone is or anything else. You should have seen the confusion that happened the last time I was in a Radio Shack, not 3 months ago asking for spade connectors. Three salesmen and not one of them knew what it was. I had to draw pictures only to be led to an empty drawer!
Rodzilla
Super Member
The tip is amazingly heat resistant actually,not sure what it's made of but in normal use it doesn't melt all that easily...what DOES happen is that it gets easily clogged with solder...i keep a small jewelers screwdriver handy to push it through into the bulb when this happens...works for me
I've seen desoldering referred to as an art, but you
dont need expensive equipment to pull it off.
I always keep plenty of wick handy. But one that
gets used a lot is this one from Scrap Shack.
The angle is a bit odd to work with at first but you get used to it.
It is 45 watt so it does get pretty hot. For some
it might be necessary to rig it to a dimmer outlet
for better heat control.
Also make sure you keep a good tip on it.
These are pretty tough to beat for 11 bucks.
Had to laugh at the lady at the counter when
I bought the last one. She tried to sell me an
extended warranty on it costing about half
the purchase price of a new one.
Here's one that MCM sells, I haven't tried yet but it looks promising.
They combine the iron with the Soldapullt so you
don't loose the heat while trying to suck it off of the joint.
I was thinking that this would work real nice on a double
sided board, we'll see.
dont need expensive equipment to pull it off.
I always keep plenty of wick handy. But one that
gets used a lot is this one from Scrap Shack.
The angle is a bit odd to work with at first but you get used to it.
It is 45 watt so it does get pretty hot. For some
it might be necessary to rig it to a dimmer outlet
for better heat control.
Also make sure you keep a good tip on it.
These are pretty tough to beat for 11 bucks.
Had to laugh at the lady at the counter when
I bought the last one. She tried to sell me an
extended warranty on it costing about half
the purchase price of a new one.
Here's one that MCM sells, I haven't tried yet but it looks promising.
They combine the iron with the Soldapullt so you
don't loose the heat while trying to suck it off of the joint.
I was thinking that this would work real nice on a double
sided board, we'll see.
