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EPI 601's

Hey what kind of caps do I need? There were 3 different 10uF caps at Radio Shack. Also they were only 35W max...wouldnt that be an issue?

Same thing with the resistors...

I am decent at soldering a speaker connection, but this crossover inside the box is going to be a pain.

Again, Thanks for all of your help. It nice to talk with others who feel the same way about vintage gear.
 
Order your caps and resistors from Parts Express. And yes, you want higher than 35v caps. You can get 250v caps from PE. Anything from inexpensive Dayton poly caps on up.

Dave
 
relaximus said:
Order your caps and resistors from Parts Express. And yes, you want higher than 35v caps. You can get 250v caps from PE. Anything from inexpensive Dayton poly caps on up.

Dave
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Thanks a ton! I would have been mad spending all that time using those 35w max ones and blowing them in about 3 seconds.

Any kind of poly cap in particular? When I was at the "Shack" they had 3 different types. Will the one from Parts Express look like the one in there now?

I also need a switch too. i need to find out what resistance range these bad boys have.

Also will i have to work in the very tight and close quarters of the speakers? I have XXL gloves...my hands dont fit to well.

You know what they say about guys with big hands right....hard to buy gloves.... thank you, thank you I'll be here all week...try the veal! haha!
 
Also when I get them working and polished up I will also post some better pictures then the ones with my phone. After all this help I wish you guys could all come over for some listening.
 
Just your standard 5%, non-polarized, metallized polypropylene caps will work fine. If you want to spend a little more coin, you can go for 1% tolerance.

Dave
 
Haha...71 cent cap...9 bucks shipping. If I could only talk my wife into spending 99 more bucks for free shipping...
 
Mike:

The key to ordering from Parts Express is anticipating future needs. With your acquisition of the 601's, you have now been assimilated into the fold of vintage speaker reclamation. You will need more caps in the future as you venture deeper into the hobby. An assortment of 5% caps is always good to have on hand. They're cheap and keep in mind that cap values can be paralleled and their effective values are additive. That is, 2 x 5uF = 1 x 10uF. And, a 2.0uF + 0.1uF = 2.1uF. An assortment of 20-30 caps in various values will hold you for a while. If you'd like a list of suggested values, just post up. You'll get replies that will range from "OK, I can deal with that" to "OMG, you buy that many caps at a time?!?". And don't be afraid to stock-up somewhat. These things are not like a loaf of bread. Newer poly caps have a very long shelf life.

Dave
 
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Also I would like to replace the switch as I think the switch is part of my issue witht he front woofer and tweeter not working...the cap makes sense for the tweets only working when I crank the volume. What type of switch does this speaker use? I believe the pot does work because once i have the tweetes going while the volume is cranked the pot does in fact change the treble.
 
MeatInStereo said:
OK....the drivers are good. the 6 inch woofer is 3 ohms, 8 inch woofer is 4 to 5 ohms, and the tweets are 3 ohms.
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Are you certain about the woofers? The 8" drivers I got from a pair of gutted 601's are 2-ohms. I believe the crossover had the pair of these wired in series.

The 2-ohm woofers are unique in the EPI/EPICURE line. Only other speaker that specs them are the much later Genesis 66. The Genesis is one that I plan on cloning with these drivers. Luckily the Vifa mid dome is still available.
 
jwalker said:
Are you certain about the woofers? The 8" drivers I got from a pair of gutted 601's are 2-ohms. I believe the crossover had the pair of these wired in series.

The 2-ohm woofers are unique in the EPI/EPICURE line. Only other speaker that specs them are the much later Genesis 66. The Genesis is one that I plan on cloning with these drivers. Luckily the Vifa mid dome is still available.
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Once I get another DMM I will double check.

If they were 5 ohm and not 2 ohm would that make them no work?
 
MeatInStereo said:
Once I get another DMM I will double check.

If they were 5 ohm and not 2 ohm would that make them no work?
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They will still "work", but not optimally. Do you have pictures of these woofers? Any chance they got replaced with non-originals at some point?
 
I have a pic earlier in the thread of the 8 inch woofers in the back...I can get a pic of the 6 inch woofer in the front. As far as replacement's go i don;t know. I just got them this weekend.
 
Pal, do yourself a favor and remove the entire board the crossover components are mounted on before you start replacing stuff. You'll damage your parts and your fingers with that hot iron and things will never be secured properly. You're going to want to swap out the spring clip speaker connects with some decent binding posts too, so just build a new board. After all, that's the way those hippies in Newburyport built those things anyway, outside the cab.
 
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fixtillbroke said:
Pal, do yourself a favor and remove the entire board the crossover components are mounted on before you start replacing stuff. You'll damage your parts and your fingers with that hot iron and things will never be secured properly. You're going to want to swap out the spring clip speaker connects with some decent binding posts too, so just build a new board. After all, that's the way those hippies in Newburyport built those things anyway, outside the cab.
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Ok, thanks for the post! I never have done anyting like this before so I didn't know how to go about all of this. So I will also be rebuilding the working 601 as well.

thaks also for watching out for my fingers...You only get 10 of them for your whole life.

None of this will make the sound different then the sound its known for?
 
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