• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

EPI 601's

If I bypass the 5 ohm resistor and the poly cap...will that be a good test? I can run a wire around each of them. Doesn't current take the path of least resistance?
 
I would not recommend bypassing the capacitors. That will allow low frequency energy to pass through the tweeter voice coils. This can damage or destroy the coils.

You could bypass the 5 ohm resistor, but I haven't done the math to see how much that will affect the load seen by your amplifier. If you lower the impedance significantly, it could damage or destroy the output transistors on your amplifier. At low volume, for a short duration, you could probably get away with it. Just don't crank it, or leave the resistor bypassed.
 
I was only going to do it as a test. Getting the front speakers to play would be huge. This is the biggest issue as i know replacing the poly cap will fix the highs not playing correctly...but the resistor is the weirdest part of this whole issue. i tested the working speaker twice and it also read OL for the 5 ohm resistor. When I get home i will get two metal clips and a very short peice of wire and play at a very low volume just to see if the front woofer starts playing. If that works i will be sur it is the resistor and will aos order the caps too. Did you see my drawing? I posted it. Thaks for posting the parts I need. What is a Lpad? I saw that in your posts.
 
An lpad is essentially a special pair of rheostats used to reduce the output volume of a speaker while keeping the impedance seen by the amplifier constant. Lpads are typically used to attenuate the output of tweeters and mids on speaker systems.

Dave
 
IT WORKED!!!!! bypassing the 5 ohm resistor made the front speakers work. At first it wasn't working and i was really bummed and baffled then I thought duh flip the switch!!! also the tweeters now work too!
 
According to the diagram the front tweeter connects to the 10 ohm resistor on the switch....maybe its a bad resistor. I would think if I flipped the switch from high to normal or normal to high I would have one of them work...or maybe both 10 ohm resistors are toast...
 
Yup, I agree. Just order all the parts for your crossover (caps and resistors) and eliminate those old components as potential problems.
 
MeatInStereo said:
According to the diagram the front tweeter connects to the 10 ohm resistor on the switch....maybe its a bad resistor. I would think if I flipped the switch from high to normal or normal to high I would have one of them work...or maybe both 10 ohm resistors are toast...
Click to expand...
You can run a jumper wire and bypass the switches and resistors, too.
 
Once they come in...how do i replace them? Would you try and replace them in the box? Would you try and remove the crossover first and then do it? I know doing it ouside of the box would be the easiet to replace the old parts but how do you remove the crossover its glued in there pretty good.
 
There's the rub. I intend to finally recap my speakers this weekend - much simpler crossover than yours. I may try to push the lpad/crossover assembly out of the front baffle and will let you know, but I will not apply very much force at all. A fellow aker was able to pop his out relatively easily, which is encouraging.

Another alternative for you is to simplify your crossover significantly. It would be a fixed system, without all of the options for turning on/of or attenuating various drivers. Really, all you need to accomplish the "wide open" circuit are the 10uf capacitor, the 10 ohm resistor at the bottom of the crossover diagram and the 5 ohm resistor. Everything else can be straight wired, eliminating the potentiometer, switches and 10 ohm resistors associated with the switches.
 
I would have to push mine into the speaker to remove it. I understand the second method of wiring it as a wide open circuit but part of me wants to keep the orginal logic in place....even though I would have it on normal with the tweeters turned on halfway all the time. Whats a good glue remover? maybe I'm thinking out loud...i can soften up the glue...push it back intot he speaker, disconnect all the wires....pat myself on the back for drawing a diagram of how its all hooked up....work on it outside the box and then glue it back in and re-connect all the wires. I guess the scary part for me is the first step of taking out of the box. I'm not worried at all about replacing the caps and the resistors. then I have to do it all over again on the working speaker.
 
FWIW - I left the attenuators in place on my 202's and if I ever go in again I will take it out. Even though I cleaned it with Deoxit it has dead spots and I can't help but think the signal transfer would be best without it in the circuit.

What I don't know is what is the resistance of the L-Pad? As it may be important to insert a resistor in it's place to keep the crossover freq constant.
 
My lpad is flush mounted to the baffle, and the face is exposed with the grill removed, so cosmetics are an issue for me when I try to press it out. Is your crossover mounted to the speaker terminal board on the back of the cabinet? If so, you could probably get away with a little more force. The glue should be brittle. If you did crack or break the mounting plate, you could always cut a new one.

I hear you about wanting to keep the circuit topology original - I tend to go that way myself, although I am seriously considering bypassing my lpad. Oh, I have heard that heat guns go a long way to loosening old glue.
 
I have heard both speakers working and they sing....the main complaint was the one speakers front speakers not working. If the new caps and resistors fix them just fixing the front speakers I would be very happy....them improving the sound of the already working speakers is the cherry on top.
 
Thanks, I bet the heat gun combo with a small tap of a hammer to a small puddy knive would work....heck maybe just running a razor along the the edge of the glue. I guess I'm just scared too of messing these babies up :)
 
Cap's and resistors are in from Parts Express! I will try and take the crossovers out of the cabinets tonight....I'll take some pics too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom