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Full Recap or Partial ??

That should cover the inside I will now take some pictures of the bottom
 

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Okay bottom photos
 

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As suggested previously, use a DBT next time you plug-in the receiver.
I would reflow the solder of C701 and C702.

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Resoldered them didn't do anything before I had at least some popping in the speakers I have nothing I mean it turns on there's no FM there's no am only the lights come on no sound whatsoever.
 
701 and 702 both beep on meter. I dont know what else to check. Every part i soldered in test good on meter, ??????????? im at a loss.
 
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The continuity test was only to check the one trace you thought you damaged. It's telling you nothing about the caps you installed (unless you're just trying to check the integrity of the solder joints.)

It might be best to let this project (and yourself) rest for a while, build yourself a dim bulb tester, and spend some time familiarizing yourself with the unit you're working on and the parts you're replacing, as well as learning some more electronics basics. We all have to start somewhere with our knowledge and it's enjoyable to learn, but it's all too easy to make critical errors when on the early part of the learning curve.

Giving the soldering iron a rest and not plugging the unit back in before you have a dim bulb tester and a little more knowledge may help prevent possible further damage. (Being in a hurry to get something done is never a good way to work.)
 
This is 701 and 702 in photo when I put the positive and negative probes from the multimeter on 701 it beats when I move over to 7 02 it beaps , am I doing something wrong?
 

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Not in a hurry, so the meter was only for the trace and does nothing to tell me whats going on with the parts i soldered in. Isnt this how you get knowlege ?, think maybe its best to take it to a shop and have it fixed and i will practice on some pile of junk soldering. I think at this point no one here is going to be able to know whats wrong to help me without seeing it for themselfs, im putting it in a shop.

Thanks for all your help i will come back when its been repaired and start over, i thinik now its just unfixable, THANKS AGAIN EVERYBODY.
 
Califmike33 said:
Not in a hurry, so the meter was only for the trace and does nothing to tell me whats going on with the parts i soldered in. Isnt this how you get knowlege ?, think maybe its best to take it to a shop and have it fixed and i will practice on some pile of junk soldering. I think at this point no one here is going to be able to know whats wrong to help me without seeing it for themselfs, im putting it in a shop.

Thanks for all your help i will come back when its been repaired and start over, i thinik now its just unfixable, THANKS AGAIN EVERYBODY.
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Practice on junk boards is a great idea and a perfect way to gain skill without damaging something you care about! There are a lot of great videos online about electronics basics that can help you gain basic knowledge - which will make working on projects easier and more enjoyable, and well as make it easier for people here to give solid suggestions, because you'll be able to provide more information.

If you do take it to a shop, please post back here and let us all know what the issue turned out to be!
 
Mike,

Don't be disheartened. Your decision to have a pro look at it might not be a bad one; you kind of jumped into a biggish project for your first go at this kind of thing. Believe me, I know the feeling.

Just a quick note regarding using your meter for cotinuity testing ...

The traces an your board are really just flat pieces of copper substituting for point to point wires. What you're checking for is that the traces carry signal along their length, until the trace doesn't continue any more. The components that connect one trace to another, i.e., the resistors, capacitors, transistors, diodes, ICs., all "interfere" or change that signal in some way, and many will not show continuity by design. Think of the traces as wire...you're just checking to make sure there are no breaks in the wires.
 
Okay I thought because of meter was beeping when I was touching the capacitors didn't meant they were good for all I know I overheated the solder and fried some of those capacitors I put in some of those capacitors may not even be working which is probably what it is I only changed out five parts I bet you I barbecued something because I put everything in facing negative the correct way and I know the parts I bought were good I bet you I barbecued one of the capacitors.

It's $110 for a diagnosis to look at it that 110 is then applied towards the repair I only paid $150 for the receiver I'm beginning to wonder at this point if it's even worth it.

Yeah and I bit off way more than I can chew I didn't think it was going to be that difficult I don't know what the hell I'm doing I have learned some stuff though from all you guys definitely don't know if I want to fork out 110 and then that goes towards repair but what's the repair going to be $200 don't think it's worth spending $200 on a receiver that I paid $150 for maybe maybe not.

Is there a way to test the capacitors that I put in themselves the five of them and see if any of them are bad is there a way to do that that's the only thing that can be it worked perfect before I did that and I haven't gotten very far on the recap it has to be one of those five capacitors?

I appreciate all the help and encouragement I can be a little short fused sometimes and I get frustrated and I was thoroughly enjoying myself I know it's something I want to do do you think there's anything I can do at this point myself since I haven't put the whole restore kit in to figure out what's wrong?
 
Tell me what you think of my plan, pull the 5 caps out i put in, test them and if there is a bad one in the bunch which logic says there is then replace it with a new one and try again ?. In the mean time while waiting for the parts i will watch videos and practics soldering. Im not sure about spending that much on repair in the shop at this time, if after removing the 5 caps that dont fix it then i will go shop, feedback ?
 
Before removing caps. Are you seeing any DC offset on speaker jacks. https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/amplifier-distortion-dc-offset-and-you.5634/

I notice you have STK power paks for outputs. Those could of shorted out at this point. Be sure to unplug receiver before soldering and maybe even discharge main filter caps, not all soldering stations are good at eliminating ESD. Personally I wouldnt spend $110 on the evaluation, it will only go up from there. Just use this item to hone some skills on at this point. I would reflow solder before pulling those 5 caps.
 
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Okay I'll reflow solder does that mean add more solder or just heat up the existing solder and make it nicer?

I agree 110 dollars is only going to go up from there it might end up being 200 $250 at that point I can just go on eBay and buy another one.

Is there a way to test those five capacitors well they're soldered into the board to see if they're good?
 
Okay I understand Google the resoldering reflow soldering I will try that on all five of them try it again see what happens going to build myself a dim light tester and go from there I've decided I'm not taking it into a shop I happen to agree with the last poster it's not worth it it's going to cost me more than the whole thing's worth I could just buy another new one off of eBay.
 
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