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Improving the Fisher X-101C

Coryk;

C133 can be a 50VDC rating. A rating of 63VDC or 75VDC would be OK too. Just make sure that the capacitor you select will be easy to mount in the space you have available for it.

Joe
 
Dave or Joe, For resistors R127 and R128, Would it be ok to just use one 270k 1Watt? Thanks!
 
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I would say to use a 270K 2W resistor if you want to use just one resistor. Also make sure that the resistor you choose has a high voltage rating (600V would be OK, but at least 475V to allow for high initial turn-on B+ voltage at turn on). Yes resistors do have voltage ratings - important to consider in applications where voltages could exceed the resistor's voltage rating which has to do with potential to arc-over.

Joe
 
njcanuck said:
Dave & Joe,

If you email the hi-res schematics to ak.pdfs@gmail.com I will upload them to the AK database. There is a 20MB size limit per document. This is the best way to distribute high quality documents.
Click to expand...
njcanuck said:
Got it and . . . Done.
Click to expand...
Hi, would you provide me a link to the posted hi res schematic & BOM - I looked / searched but had no success and am not sure where to look - thanks in advance for direction. Steve
 
Doubler caps.JPG Sprk Rerm frt.JPG Spkr Term rear.JPG POT bracket frt.JPG

Buzz couldn't resist this fun, complicated project.

Here are a couple of photos:

1. I like gluing modern doubler caps with JB weld to the old style phenolic cap spacers. One of the original doubling cap cans contained a 500V cap, which I migrated to the remaining can (I restuffed it with all new caps).

2. I stole the idea of installing 3-way binding posts on the two speaker terminals that I plan to use (i.e. 8 ohm and common);

3. I don't guess you can see it very well, but I simplified the Tape Head / Phono Hi / Phono Low input terminal strip into one RCA plug for MM phono only;

4. I had some reservations about drilling down into & removing the long terminal strip connecting to the bias and phase pots (the drill's torque forces can make a mess of things) so I decided to mount the three pots on a bracket. It's a lot more accessible that way, and it leaves LOTS of space for the 24V tranny & other stuff below.

More later, if Dave doesn't strangle me first . . .
 
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Top View.JPG Bracket.JPG Perf board.jpg

Here are some pics of the mounting bracket installed. Moving the pots to the top makes them accessible, and leaves enough real estate beneath for a decent-sized perf board for the filament and doubler supplies.
 
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I plan to install a small PCB inside of the tone control L-shaped cover. I'll post some pics.

In the meantime, I shrunk the attachments on my other posts to thumbnails. The full-sized shots seemed like shouting. :)
 
Here's the layout for the EFB PCB. It's the board that I laid out for the Eico ST-70, but it can work in this application. I have to make a minor mod, so it's not completely soldered. Note the compact size.
 

Attachments

  • X101 PCB.jpg
    X101 PCB.jpg
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I messed up the brown vinyl strip on the control door. I suppose that one man's disaster is another's opportunity.

The original plan was to have a black background with gold letters. This is what I got instead. I think I'm going to see if Plan A is still a possibility.

Thoughts?

Buzz

New Plate.JPG
 
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Buzz; If THAT is the only thing you messed up, you're 1/2 a continent ahead of 99.99999999994% of us. Nice job.

Larry
 
BuzzK said:
I messed up the brown vinyl strip on the control door. I suppose that one man's disaster is another's opportunity.

The original plan was to have a black background with gold letters. This is what I got instead. I think I'm going to see if Plan A is still a possibility.

Thoughts?

Buzz

View attachment 722558
Click to expand...

Jon that is very tasteful and stunning.

Frannie
 
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