Nice SL-1700 to fix....

[jleon92f]

New RCA cables and ground wire. Mechanicals almost done..

New RCA cables.. by jleon92f, on Flickr

Testing, with some Ray Brown..Right channel/Left channel Good. No Hum.

Thanks,
John.

 

[Isotonic]

 

[Stanton681EEES]

New RCA cables and ground wire. Mechanicals almost done..

New RCA cables.. by jleon92f, on Flickr

Testing, with some Ray Brown..Right channel/Left channel Good. No Hum.

Thanks,
John.

Hey John what cables did you use? I also see you replaced the arm rest as well.
Try wrapping the arm in teflon tape I did that on my 1500 and it seem to tighten up the bass........ Good Job my friend.............

 

[jleon92f]

Hey John what cables did you use? I also see you replaced the arm rest as well.
Try wrapping the arm in teflon tape I did that on my 1500 and it seem to tighten up the bass........ Good Job my friend.............

Hi,

I wanted to use these nice heavy cables but, the way the cable is secured required to much extra work, drilling holes , Etc. Standard Belden gold ends RCA cable, 12ft cut in half.:thmbsp:

I am having a skipping problem as the arm goes towards the center of the LP? I adjusted the anti-skate a few different times to no avail. Also, how far towards the center should the arm move by hand? It stops before reaching the spindle to check overhang? I may have to take apart the tonearm and clean the bearings more closely.:scratch2:

arm_stop by jleon92f, on Flickr

Well it played good for the beginning of the LP.

Thanks,
John.

 

[jleon92f]

I adjusted the bearings, so far so good. Played a complete side 1!
Using the AT3600 at 2 grams, anti-skate at 2 also.

Thanks,
John.

 

[jleon92f]

OK so far, playing Sinatra LP. Bearing was to tight.

Thanks,
John.

 

[jleon92f]

On to the cosmetics...Mechanicals done!

Thanks,
John.

 

[Stanton681EEES]

Hey John I'm curious is the cable hold down like the standard 1500 in that it's a metal strip that goes over the cables securing then to the plinth?

 

[jleon92f]

Hey John I'm curious is the cable hold down like the standard 1500 in that it's a metal strip that goes over the cables securing then to the plinth?

It is plastic two piece type on this model, cable goes between the parts. There are a lot of ways to get around this, I was in a hurry to hear both channels working... It all works now, anti-skate and does not skip. Tonearm moves freely. I have a SL-1500 to be fixed also... another project. Its in bad shape too. I set the over hang at 49mm? Distance from rubber washer to stylus.

sounds_great by jleon92f, on Flickr


Thanks,
John.

 

[jleon92f]

Here is how the hold down looked with old RCAs. There is a link to the SL-1500 on previous page.

Cleaned out dead bugs and webs. by jleon92f, on Flickr


Thanks,
John.

 

[Stanton681EEES]

I see they use the same type as the 1500MKII with that little PC board. it looks to me that they use that hold down ala the 1600 1700 and 1800MKII . Plus it looks like the plinth is the same as the 1500............. just that the hold down is in the spot where the metal strap if you like is used to hold the cable down..........

 

[stewy]

About the corrosion...

I have a 1800mk2 that runs perfectly but does have corrosion on the platter and the dots. I haven't tried this yet but I started to think about how when I was a kid we would use a SOS soap pad with all of the soap washed out of it to clean the rust off of the rims of our bikes. It worked really well.

I wonder how this would work on the corrosion on my platter?

Great thread btw. I love these tables... it's feels good to be able to take something that someone else considered junk and fix it up to make it run like new again.

 

[jleon92f]

About the corrosion...

I have a 1800mk2 that runs perfectly but does have corrosion on the platter and the dots. I haven't tried this yet but I started to think about how when I was a kid we would use a SOS soap pad with all of the soap washed out of it to clean the rust off of the rims of our bikes. It worked really well.

I wonder how this would work on the corrosion on my platter?

Great thread btw. I love these tables... it's feels good to be able to take something that someone else considered junk and fix it up to make it run like new again.

Thanks, I was thinking of something similar, those green sanding pads, or my buffer machine with a pad on it. I am going to get the paint swatches today at Home Depot for a color match.

Once I got the arm problem fixed it works great now. Sounds really good with the AT3600 cart.

Thanks,
John.

 

[jleon92f]

Color match...

paint_match by jleon92f, on Flickr

Thanks,
John.

 

[boreas]

About the corrosion...

I have a 1800mk2 that runs perfectly but does have corrosion on the platter and the dots. I haven't tried this yet but I started to think about how when I was a kid we would use a SOS soap pad with all of the soap washed out of it to clean the rust off of the rims of our bikes. It worked really well.

I wonder how this would work on the corrosion on my platter?

Basically, what you end up with is a hunk of "00" steel wool (maybe "0"). It's not exactly the right material for getting rid of corrosion and pits in aluminum. Since steel wool tends to conform itself to the surface you're working on it'll do a decent job on the oxidation but won't do much to remove the pits. Also, it would have a tendency to get into the black painted areas and remove the finish.

A Better choice would be a succession of grits of wet or dry sandpaper, probably on a rubber sanding block and perhaps lubricated by something like Brasso. It would polish the aluminum and even out the surface at the same time. If the black paint is compromised you could paint the whole rim of the platter in something like Krylon satin black or wrought iron black. Then when you sand the rim it will remove the paint from the strobe marks but nothing else.

John

 

[boreas]

Color match...

What happened to red?????

Another great project, John!

John

 

[jleon92f]

What happened to red?????

Another great project, John!

John

I would love red but, the decals would be on a gray background. Easiest is the color match gray, then clear.

I still have plenty of repairs to go through for another Red one. That Red Sanyo I had went to a nice home.

Playing it now, awesome..:thmbsp:

sl1700_at_work by jleon92f, on Flickr


Thanks,
John.

 

[jleon92f]

Good Morning, anyone know the distance from the rubber washer on the headshell to the stylus setup for overhang? I went with 49mm?

Thanks,
John.

 

[Balifly]

Technics S arm is 52mm.

 

[jleon92f]

Technics S arm is 52mm.

Thank you, I will make the change right now..I could not remember the number, I knew I was close. So now it should sound even better!

Thanks,
John.