Nice SL-1700 to fix....

[jleon92f]

John you bugger you, you sucked me in here I thought I was going to see a repainted 1700 and what do I get BLING.................

The Black and Gold looks really nice.. I am moving my storage to a bigger unit, been busy. I am done sanding the Platter, have to polish it now.

Then to the repaint... It still sounds real nice.


Thanks,
John.

 

[jleon92f]

Had to replace the power cord, the insulation is hard and stiff.
And one Capacitor looks puffed up.:scratch2:
Seems it was over heated at some time?

Thanks,
John.

 

[Stanton681EEES]

PLZ tell me your not going to paint the platter gold? Och............... ya best to get things that need attention done before you paint it...........

 

[jleon92f]

PLZ tell me your not going to paint the platter gold? Och............... ya best to get things that need attention done before you paint it...........

OK, has a new power cord, and I replaced the Fat Capacitor. 50v 470uf axial.

Need to return the paint I bought, was for different surface,color was , Eh... No, I am not painting the platter Gold..I am going to polish it to its normal brilliance.

Thanks,
John.

 

[1973BuickGS]

Nice project! I love these turntables.

 

[relaximus]

I love this thread! I also have a 1700 that has the same cueing problem, but otherwise works flawlessly and is in beautiful condition. Is there a thread that outlines refilling the fluid reservoir?

Cheers!
Dave

 

[SteveH]

I love this thread! I also have a 1700 that has the same cueing problem, but otherwise works flawlessly and is in beautiful condition. Is there a thread that outlines refilling the fluid reservoir?

The service manual for the SL-1700 details how to do this. You can get it from Vinyl Engine. It's a pretty simple job.

Steve

 

[relaximus]

The service manual for the SL-1700 details how to do this. You can get it from Vinyl Engine. It's a pretty simple job.

Thanks Steve, I have that manual but it merely shows an exploded view of the table. There is nothing in it outlining the dis-assembly process nor accessing the damping fluid reservoir.

Dave

 

[cjacek]

I apologize if this was answered before but I also have that same 1700 as the OP and wanted to know how to safely remove / lift the platter off? Also, what is the least intrusive way to gain access to the speed adjust pots to clean 'em out? I did this sort of thing on belt systems, pretty easily (just spraying some Caig F5 into pots and working them to solve touchy speed problems) and was wondering how to gain entry on the 1700. Great thread, thanks!!:thmbsp:

 

[jleon92f]

I bought "Nevr-Dull", It is a lot harder to polish than I thought by hand, I need MORE POWER! I am going to attach the cotton wadding to my drill some how. Then we shall see, as of now there is very little difference for a lot of elbow grease...Long day today.

Still moving storages..

Thanks,
John.

 

[jleon92f]

I apologize if this was answered before but I also have that same 1700 as the OP and wanted to know how to safely remove / lift the platter off? Also, what is the least intrusive way to gain access to the speed adjust pots to clean 'em out? I did this sort of thing on belt systems, pretty easily (just spraying some Caig F5 into pots and working them to solve touchy speed problems) and was wondering how to gain entry on the 1700. Great thread, thanks!!:thumbs:

I use PB Blaster penetrate oil, let it soak and then lift it off, applying pressure with thumbs on the spindle. Lift the top off to get to the speed pots. There is a picture in this thread.

Great TT BTW.

Thanks,
John.

 

[jleon92f]

Thanks Steve, I have that manual but it merely shows an exploded view of the table. There is nothing in it outlining the dis-assembly process nor accessing the damping fluid reservoir.

Dave

Here is the tonearm removed and cuing taken apart. There is no Reservoir, just dip the cuing shaft into the 500k goop.
Good luck,
John.

 

[relaximus]

Thanks John! Can the tonearm be removed without having to disassemble the chassis?

Dave

 

[jleon92f]

Thanks John! Can the tonearm be removed without having to disassemble the chassis?

Dave

No, you have to flip it over after securing the tonearm and removing the headshell and weight, and take the feet off. Then the top will lift off, unplug the wires carefully. You will see everything then. (3) screws on the tonearm, machine screws, don't mix them up. One is under the rubber cap.

Take your time.

Thanks,
John.

 

[relaximus]

John:

Thanks so much!

Dave

 

[jleon92f]

Up and running!


IMG_1789 by jleon92f, on Flickr

Sounds Great! with the AT3600 cart too...

Thanks,
John.

 

[WCFR Jock]

Nice project. I did one of my SL-1800s in gloss black years ago and was happy with the result. Nice, simple tables to disassenble and get back together.

Bill

 

[jleon92f]

Nice project. I did one of my SL-1800s in gloss black years ago and was happy with the result. Nice, simple tables to disassenble and get back together.

Bill

Thanks, this one was in rough shape. Good back up TT for now.

Thanks,
John.

 

[montelatici]

Looks like the innards of a 1500

It's completely different from an SL 1500. The 1500 has a solid plinth. This one is suspended.

 

[creeve]

Sorry to dig up a year old thread but I can't seem to figure out how to remove the top half of my 1700. I need to access the pitch pots and speed switch for cleaning, which as it seems to me that circuit board has to come out in order to do so. I have removed the plastic feet, knobs and platter but something is still holding it together. I downloaded the service manual but it does not give any instructions but rather exploded view diagrams that are not very easy to read. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks