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Pioneer SX-1010 Recap & Refresh

Update, both power amp boards are completed and all functional, dbt test passed and Idle and dc offset are stable. Bias drifts between 23-28mv, so I hope that is OK???

Next up is the phono board.
I am enjoying doing the restore, taking my time with it, have about 20 hours in it already, so it's slow going

I have not touched the preamp yet, but listening to music on it now, really is a fantastic sounding receiver.
 
I just noticed on my phono board that in Q1-Q4 there are 2SA763 installed, not the 2SA725 as the service manual details although it is listed as an alternate in the part list. Interesting.
I think either way they should go, as the KSA992 are quieter from the threads i have read on it.

Also another question which I thought I would ask. Apologies in advance if it is stupid
I see projects where people added bypass caps to electrolytics and was wondering if this would be an improvement in the phono stage of the amp. I have a bunch of 1uf film caps that I could use, would this be worth a shot???

Is it critical to match the 992's? My tester is poor, so hfe readings not reliable
 
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Phono Board AWF-013

phono original.jpg

Capacitors:
C1 = 2.2 uF, 25v - Replaced with film cap
C2 = 2.2 uF, 25v - Replaced with film cap
C5 = 470 uF, 6.3v - Replaced with Nichicon UKL series capacitor
C6 = 470 uF, 6.3v - Replaced with Nichicon UKL series capacitor
C9 = 100 uF, 6.3v - Replaced with Nichicon UKL series capacitor
C10 = 100 uF, 6.3v - Replaced with Nichicon UKL series capacitor
C11 = 10 uF, 10v - Replaced with Nichicon UKL series capacitor
C12 = 10 uF, 10v - Replaced with Nichicon UKL series capacitor
C19 = 100 uF, 35v - Replaced with Nichicon UKL series capacitor
C20 = 100 uF, 35v - Replaced with Nichicon UKL series capacitor
C21 = 220 uF, 16v - Replaced with Nichicon UKL series capacitor

Transistors:
Q1, 2SA763 - Replaced with KSA992FBU
Q2, 2SA763 - Replaced with KSA992FBU
Q3, 2SA763 - Replaced with KSA992FBU
Q4, 2SA763 - Replaced with KSA992FBU
Q5, 2SC1313 - Replaced with KSC1845FTA
Q6, 2SC1313 - Replaced with KSC1845FTA
Q7, 2SC1313 - Replaced with KSC1845FTA
Q8, 2SC1313 - Replaced with KSC1845FTA



phono complete.JPG
 
Control Amp (AWH-027-A)
1ca original - Copy.jpg
Capacitors:
C1, 0.33 uF, 25v
C2, 0.33 uF, 25v
C7, 100 uF, 10v
C8, 100 uF, 10v
C13, 2.2 uF, 25v
C14, 2.2 uF, 25v
C15, 4.7 uF, 35v
C16, 4.7 uF, 35v
C23 ,4.7 uF, 25v
C24 ,4.7 uF, 25v
C25,10 uF, 16v
C26,10 uF, 16v
C29, 100 uF, 10v
C30, 100 uF, 10v
C31, 4.7 uF, 35
C32, 4.7 uF, 35v
C39, 4.7 uF, 25v
C40, 4.7 uF, 25v
C41,10 uF, 16v
C42,10 uF, 16v
C45, 100 uF, 10v
C46, 100 uF, 10v
C47, 2.2 uF, 50v
C48, 2.2 uF, 50v
C49, 100 uF, 16v
C50, 100 uF, 16v
C51, 100uF, 16v
C52, 100uf, 16v

FIlm caps for everything under 4.7uf and nichicon UPW series for all other electrolytics
(Used wrong cap type see UKL update below)

Transistors:
Q1, 2SA725, KSA992FBU
Q2, 2SA725, KSA992FBU
Q3, 2SC1313 replaced with KSC1845FTA
Q4, 2SC1313 replaced with KSC1845FTA
Q5, 2SC1313 replaced with KSC1845FTA
Q6, 2SC1313 replaced with KSC1845FTA
Q7, 2SC1313 replaced with KSC1845FTA
Q8, 2SC1313 replaced with KSC1845FTA

ca complete.JPG
 
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Looks very good Paul. One note for posterity , in the Signal Path a UKL is the somewhat better choice as it's low noise. But the UPW/UHE is good compared to the originals, and you won't really hear the difference btwn UKL and UPW/UHE, but you'll see it on a scope.
 
Dammit, thanks for the heads up Larry, i think i will change them to the UKL, wont matter if i can hear it or not now, they have to go, just knowing they are not the best choice will have me thinking about it.
Have the unit open still so should not be a big deal, just hate going at the board again, i should have checked twice.
 
Damn Paul, I didn't mean for you to change them, the note was for future reference. Sorry I put you thru another session, man.
 
larryderouin said:
Damn Paul, I didn't mean for you to change them, the note was for future reference. Sorry I put you thru another session, man.
Click to expand...

Not at all Larry I am very glad you did let me know, it did not take long at all, fresh solder much easier to remove than the old stuff.
 
Next up is the LEDs, i am trying to figure out a way of making my own up neatly, would be grateful for any suggestions on how to make up neat bulbs, with tails and resistor ready to solder in.
 
For the Dial lamps I just buy them at wjoe.com 2-3 packs at a time. (Use them on FISHER, PIONEER, Sansui, etc., when a 8V 25ma is called for. Pack of 10 is something like $9.50 or so. Plus shipping. The Blue is too much blue in the x3x series. I use the white ones. YMMV
http://www.wjoe.com/diallamps_fuse.htm

$1.20ea Fuse

AG3 8V 25ma LED

$9.50 pack of 10

warm_white_led_fuse.jpg


202222 Warm white LED fuse lamp use in vintage HIFI.
 
I just went and ordered a full set of LED bulbs from Dwojo, i actually found it very difficult to make up some neat bulbs and resistors, so i went with the more professional option.
Doing the LEDs in an SX1010 is definitely a pig of a job in my opinion. So far i would consider it the least fun to do.

I also have a question on the tuner board, specifically with respect to access.
Do i have to remove pins to get access to the underside of the board , or will freeing up a bunch of the wiring harnesses allow me to rotate the board for access?
I am going to do the tuner anyway, just a straight up capacitor replacement
 
paultlaw said:
Updated with UKL caps
View attachment 1878238
Click to expand...

What list are you using for this rebuild? In some aspect the full UPW and UKL is half correct. If its not too much trouble you may want to toss a few of those UPWs back in there. However it will probably be fine as is. Here is some info:

If you want to use film caps:
- 0.1uf to less than 1.0 uf: Wima MKP2
- 1uf to 4.7uf: Wima MKS 2
cea >> Nichicon UPW
ceanl, cssa, csza >> nichicon UKL if film not possible - (low noise, low electronic leakage)

For example, here is a snip of the service manual for this board. As you know ignore the mylars and such, just focus on the electrolytic and blue tant caps. Notice the first few letters of the part numbers? They compare to the list above. There are of course other choices for which type of caps to use but at least it gives you an idea on if you should use a UPW type cap or UKL type cap.

upload_2020-5-28_11-1-13.png
 
MIJ_Pioneer said:
What list are you using for this rebuild? In some aspect the full UPW and UKL is half correct. If its not too much trouble you may want to toss a few of those UPWs back in there. However it will probably be fine as is. Here is some info:

If you want to use film caps:
- 0.1uf to less than 1.0 uf: Wima MKP2
- 1uf to 4.7uf: Wima MKS 2
cea >> Nichicon UPW
ceanl, cssa, csza >> nichicon UKL if film not possible - (low noise, low electronic leakage)

For example, here is a snip of the service manual for this board. As you know ignore the mylars and such, just focus on the electrolytic and blue tant caps. Notice the first few letters of the part numbers? They compare to the list above. There are of course other choices for which type of caps to use but at least it gives you an idea on if you should use a UPW type cap or UKL type cap.

View attachment 1880821
Click to expand...

:oops: damn. Thanks for the heads up, I'll pull the low leakage caps that should be upw. Thank you for spotting that, yet another silly mistake, Larry corrected me and I still done it wrong. I'll fix it tomorrow and edit the post

And to be clear I absolutely knew the required caps to use in each position, especially from all of the pioneer units being explicit in where to use low leakage caps, I just had multiple brain farts, and basically stopped using my brain a bit. Twice. I do apologise, I certainly don't want to lead anyone reading this astray.
Keep on top of me if I am doing anything wrong, your comments are all extremely helpful, I'll try keep my myself on point.
 
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I had to also undo wiring harness some to do my 1010, and got it to lift the back up to about 75deg. Otherwise(especially if you don't have 6 elbows and rotating joints) you can wrap a small piece of tape around each pin, mark with pin number, and de-solder them and remove the pins and the tuning wheel with the dial cord taped down. Cord should be taped down in any event, unless you really REALLY enjoy (and who doesn't) re-stringing the dial cord.
 
Tuner was a pig to access, found it quite tight to solder this board, but it can be done.
Sorry i do not have a before picture, the ones i have are all disjointed.

tuner complete.JPG

Tuner (AWE-040-0)

Capacitors:
C8 - 4.7 uF, 25v, - Film Cap
C10 - 10 uF,16v - Nichicon UPW series
C11 - 0.47 uF, 50v - Film Cap
C16 - 10 uF,16v - Nichicon UPW series
C18 - 1 uF, 50v - Film Cap
C19 - 100 uF, 16v - Nichicon UPW series
C21 - 100 uF, 16v - Nichicon UPW series
C23 - 0.33 uF, 10v - Film Cap
C24 - 1 uF, 10v - Film Cap
C25 - 0.47 uF, 10v - Film Cap
C28 - 2.2 uF, 50v - Film Cap
C29 - 2.2 uF, 50v - Film Cap
C30 - 0.47 uF, 50v - Film Cap
C31 - 0.47 uF, 50v - Film Cap
C32 - 4.7 uF, 25v - Film Cap
C33 - 47 uF, 25v - Nichicon UPW series
C45 - 10 uF, 16v - Nichicon UPW series
C48 - 0.1 uF, 25v - Film Cap
C49 - 220 uF, 16v - Nichicon UPW series
 
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