question about cab building
- Thread starter richd860
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
perchdog
AudioDouchebag
i believe most manufacturers used baltic birch.... marine grade is a completely different animal at 2x + cost, never heard of a speaker manfacturer touting that material in their adds
Yup, marine grade is just about the glue used. If the OP wants to go with bullet proof plywood there's nothing better or more expensive that phenolic plywood, but mdf is "deader".
http://www.knowledgegalaxy.net/phenolic_plywood/phenolic_plywood.html
Another alternative
I've used MDO on one of my builds.
It is plywood with a very thin layer of mdf on the surfaces.
The glues used are graded for outdoors.
It is similar to plywood used for concrete forms, but has more,thinner layers and none I've seen has voids in the plys.
I've seen it used on ceilings of porches and it is also used by the Highway administration for signs because it is durable and the mdo surfaces make it great for paint and reflective stickers.
However it is harder to find.
I got mine thru someone I know who uses it often at his work to make forms for aluminum castings. They use it because of the smooth surfaces and can be abused.
Cuts much nicer than MDF.
www.insidewoodworking.com/mdo-and-hdo-plywood.html
I'm waiting for our contry to get on the ball and make Ecoboard more available.
It is available in the UK.
It is recycled plywood fibers that are molded with recycled plastics instead of glues.
It is supposed to be about 2/3 the cost of normal plywood, more moisture resistant than particle board, doesn't have the ill affects of milling/cutting like mdo.
By what I've read, it seems, lighter, denser, cheaper and more water resistant.
The Uk is promoting this due to the amount of wasted plywood in construction.
Especially for temperary walls you see outside of sites, then is thrown away because plywood's crappy resistance to water if not covered.
I've used MDO on one of my builds.
It is plywood with a very thin layer of mdf on the surfaces.
The glues used are graded for outdoors.
It is similar to plywood used for concrete forms, but has more,thinner layers and none I've seen has voids in the plys.
I've seen it used on ceilings of porches and it is also used by the Highway administration for signs because it is durable and the mdo surfaces make it great for paint and reflective stickers.
However it is harder to find.
I got mine thru someone I know who uses it often at his work to make forms for aluminum castings. They use it because of the smooth surfaces and can be abused.
Cuts much nicer than MDF.
www.insidewoodworking.com/mdo-and-hdo-plywood.html
I'm waiting for our contry to get on the ball and make Ecoboard more available.
It is available in the UK.
It is recycled plywood fibers that are molded with recycled plastics instead of glues.
It is supposed to be about 2/3 the cost of normal plywood, more moisture resistant than particle board, doesn't have the ill affects of milling/cutting like mdo.
By what I've read, it seems, lighter, denser, cheaper and more water resistant.
The Uk is promoting this due to the amount of wasted plywood in construction.
Especially for temperary walls you see outside of sites, then is thrown away because plywood's crappy resistance to water if not covered.
Last edited:
ken kantor
Fowl Humor
Absolutely, it's all about chatoyance. I'm tired of the black piano finish on my NHTs. Curley or quilted maple will be my new veneer of choice.
Are you going to try and resurface you NHT's If so, which ones, and how? I'm inquiring, because I get asked about this fairly frequently.
TIA.
Yes, but not sure just when. Not till after back surgery, I'm too woobly to be using rotating carbide finger eaters these days. I have SuperTwos, a SubOne, SuperOnes and a Center in my main 5.1 system. They really clash with my maple mantle and the rest of my living room furniture.
Funny thing is I've built lots of furniture, but always worked in solid wood. This will be my 1st veneering project. I haven't decided whether to remove the laminate or rough it up and veneer over it. If I go the latter route I'll use plastic resin glue for the first layer of non-show veneer. I figure that'll bond nicely and I won't have to worry about any dark glue bleeding through the blond curly maple veneer.
Funny thing is I've built lots of furniture, but always worked in solid wood. This will be my 1st veneering project. I haven't decided whether to remove the laminate or rough it up and veneer over it. If I go the latter route I'll use plastic resin glue for the first layer of non-show veneer. I figure that'll bond nicely and I won't have to worry about any dark glue bleeding through the blond curly maple veneer.
Last edited:
