Gaerisch
Member
And I thought I was crazy having 3 pairs! Nice collection!my M7 collection
KLH version on the right, they're too similar not to include them
Realistic Minimus 7 ID Thread
- Thread starter Grainger49
- Start date
Gaerisch
Member
N
Now if I only had my realistic sa1000a integrated amplifier to go with them! That was a good little amplifier.
They can sing with only a few CLEAN watts. My 3.5WPC SET amp sounds great on them. There are smaller amps than the SA 10000 that power them well.
Gaerisch
Member
The
early ones had screw terminals. They also had a slotted hole on back to hang them on walls. Later models had spring clips for terminals. They also came with brackets to hang on walls, but the brackets allowed you to rotate them to face in different directions.
I now have a pair of vintage Minimus 7s mounted either side of the double windows in my work room using the brackets above. I have to slide back to the table behind my work table to get a good image. But it is beautiful.
They are driven by an Eagle 2C.
BTW, the line on my avatar you can't see reads, "are finally asweep."
They are driven by an Eagle 2C.
BTW, the line on my avatar you can't see reads, "are finally asweep."
Maxamillion
Super Member
Hello all,
I have two nice pairs of Minimus-7s, each grabbed for $5/pr. One set is an original 40-2030 with screw terminals, made in Japan, serial#s 00736 and 00737. The other is 40-2030C, made in Korea, spring clips, no serial#.
Here's my dilemma. I will use one pair as my shop speakers and build the Zilch crossover in a little project box attached to the back so I can use large parts and not affect the internal volume.. Which pair should I choose? I think folks feel the originals sound a bit better (tweeter especially) so I'm leaning that way, but another part of me says leave the originals stock for preservation reasons and hack up the 2030Cs instead.
I realize these 2030s aren't super valuable but I'd hate to defile a true classic...
Thoughts?
Pic attached of one of each set.
I have two nice pairs of Minimus-7s, each grabbed for $5/pr. One set is an original 40-2030 with screw terminals, made in Japan, serial#s 00736 and 00737. The other is 40-2030C, made in Korea, spring clips, no serial#.
Here's my dilemma. I will use one pair as my shop speakers and build the Zilch crossover in a little project box attached to the back so I can use large parts and not affect the internal volume.. Which pair should I choose? I think folks feel the originals sound a bit better (tweeter especially) so I'm leaning that way, but another part of me says leave the originals stock for preservation reasons and hack up the 2030Cs instead.
I realize these 2030s aren't super valuable but I'd hate to defile a true classic...
Thoughts?
Pic attached of one of each set.
Pondered that dilemma myself. Have a minty set of 40-2030 with original packaging and paperwork. Though tempted, I've declined to mod them, opting to preserve them for historical reference. Performance is so vastly improved for those I've PZ-2.X modded that there's little point. I can, on a whim, hear either the best that were made or the best that they can be.
I would go with Zilch on the Japanese pair and the Korean ones in the shop.
Maxamillion
Super Member
Whichever pair I mod will be going in the shop. The other will be on the shelf for now.
You can swap the tweeters BUT of the 4 I removed a wire broke on 1. They are taped to the magnet assembly but the tape stuck to the faceplate.. On my 7w pair I removed the tweeter and glued a Dayton 5/8" tweeter in the hole with black silicone. I got some nuts for the screws, metric, to fill the screw holes. I have a Silver one w/metal faceplate but it has spring clips. The xover is the same but has a full size .4mH coil. I would have to take one of yours apart just to see what's different. I've had Japanese, Korean and Malaysian ones and all had small coil except that one. It's Japanese.
Noticed the date code printed on your 40-2030 shows it was built in 1978, but digit(s) for "month" of manufacture is missing -- which occurs on occasion.
Any chance the other with serial no. 00737 has the full date code? Every data point helps refine the chronological history of these little speakers, but reports on this rare original model are scarce.
Maxamillion
Super Member
00737 has a 3 before the A8.
March of '78 then, thank you. It's fortunate yours have consecutive serial numbers that assures the date of one is same as the other.
Gaerisch
Member
I would leave the originals alone. I have 3 pairs. One pair are the originals, with the screw terminals. They’re still working fine. The other 2 pairs are the ones that came with the wall brackets. They’re still working fine as well. I’m the original owner of all of them. If I had to modify, I would do the later models.
Scott66
Active Member
A little late to this thread and I'll admit I didn't read all 13 pages...
Where do you find the serial numbers? I see the catalog number on the back, but no serial number.
I had a set of these back in the day and they were awesome. I even used them in the back of my 1984 Honda Civic hatchback for a while! Loaned them to my brother and we got into a fight when I asked for them back. I don't remember whatever happened to them.
I found a pair of the 2030C's at the flea market this weekend for $15. Didn't really need them but couldn't pass them up. I promptly got on eBay and found an Optimus STA-20 receiver for $15.80! For less than $0, I'll have a rocking little system!
Where do you find the serial numbers? I see the catalog number on the back, but no serial number.
I had a set of these back in the day and they were awesome. I even used them in the back of my 1984 Honda Civic hatchback for a while! Loaned them to my brother and we got into a fight when I asked for them back. I don't remember whatever happened to them.
I found a pair of the 2030C's at the flea market this weekend for $15. Didn't really need them but couldn't pass them up. I promptly got on eBay and found an Optimus STA-20 receiver for $15.80! For less than $0, I'll have a rocking little system!
Serial numbers appear on round paper stickers found only on those made in Japan.
Korean 7's are stamped with a circle containing just the date code and a two-letter code.
Malaysian 7's have a small rectangular paper label bearing only a date code. These are prone to falling off and are sometimes missing.
Nancy K
New Member
So happy to have found this thread and wealth of information! I am setting up a DAW and needed monitors. I remembered I had a pair of the Minimus 7s from yonks ago. I have a couple of questions that I'm sure (or at least hopeful) someone here can help me out with:
- First, would anyone happen to know the age of the speakers (Cat. No. 2030B - No. 44877 - pic attached) I think I got them in the 90s but I'm not sure.
- Secondly, I was going to power them with my dad's ancient Pilot amplifier (Pilot 230) which was probably bought in the 1960s. Only problem is there was a ton of noise. There's a place here in Seattle that can clean it up and, possibly, find the missing tube, but in the interim I thought I'd invest in a new amp to power the speakers. I picked up a Fosi Audio unit with the following specs (below) . As I don't know my Ohms from my Hz, I would appreciate any advice as to whether this might be an adequate pairing or not. Thanks!
Description
1. SNR: ≥ 98dB
2. Input Sensitivity: ≤ 280mV
3. THD: ≤ 0.04%
4. Output Power: 50W + 50W
5. Power Supply: 19V 4.74A
6. Power supply range: 12v-24v
7. Input Mode: Analog
8. Terminating Impedance: 2Ohm -8Ohm
9. Frequency Range: 20Hz - 20kHz (±1dB)
10.Product Size: 130 x 100 x 35 mm
- First, would anyone happen to know the age of the speakers (Cat. No. 2030B - No. 44877 - pic attached) I think I got them in the 90s but I'm not sure.
- Secondly, I was going to power them with my dad's ancient Pilot amplifier (Pilot 230) which was probably bought in the 1960s. Only problem is there was a ton of noise. There's a place here in Seattle that can clean it up and, possibly, find the missing tube, but in the interim I thought I'd invest in a new amp to power the speakers. I picked up a Fosi Audio unit with the following specs (below) . As I don't know my Ohms from my Hz, I would appreciate any advice as to whether this might be an adequate pairing or not. Thanks!
Description
- Adopt TI TPA3116D2 chip to get clear and clarity sound, no pop, no audible noise, dead silent when nothing is playing through it.
- 50W X 2(4 ohms, 20Hz - 20kHz, 0.04% THD), best for bookshelf/ computer/ desktop speakers, can use Phone/ MP3 player/ DC/ TV/ Echo Dot as input.
- Simple compact design but practical and powerful, ship with power adapter and power cord, you can use directly.
- Home Hi-Fi integrated amplifier, Exclusively designed for the customers who pursue HiFi sound.
- What You Get: V1.0B amplifier x1, power adapter x1, AC cord x1, user manual x1, 18-Month global warranty, and 24-Hour quick customer service.
1. SNR: ≥ 98dB
2. Input Sensitivity: ≤ 280mV
3. THD: ≤ 0.04%
4. Output Power: 50W + 50W
5. Power Supply: 19V 4.74A
6. Power supply range: 12v-24v
7. Input Mode: Analog
8. Terminating Impedance: 2Ohm -8Ohm
9. Frequency Range: 20Hz - 20kHz (±1dB)
10.Product Size: 130 x 100 x 35 mm
Attachments
Hi, and welcome to AK!
The date code on the one shown is "2A7."
"7" represents year of manufacture, and since this is a 40-2030B that would be 1987.
"2" is the month, which is of course February.
TPA3116D2 chips make nice sounding little amps. With the 19V power supply described, you should expect to get clean output up to 20 Watts per channel into these 8 Ohm speakers.
More than enough to drive them. Amps Tandy marketed specifically for Minimus-7 didn't offer as much power. The Fosi amp should make a splendid pairing.
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