Rega Owner's Thread
- Thread starter Art K.
- Start date
Floyd15
New Member
Floyd15
New Member
Hi people
I'm a bit confused so could do with some advice please, At the moment im using Rega Ela half fluted speakers which sound really nice and have no problem with. But i have just been offered a pair of Rega R3's the problem is they are miles away so i cant get a demo,now they are a good price. So would it be worth me buying them are they an upgrade over the Ela's or sideways step or not as good? Or should i just stick withe Ela's? Thanks
I'm a bit confused so could do with some advice please, At the moment im using Rega Ela half fluted speakers which sound really nice and have no problem with. But i have just been offered a pair of Rega R3's the problem is they are miles away so i cant get a demo,now they are a good price. So would it be worth me buying them are they an upgrade over the Ela's or sideways step or not as good? Or should i just stick withe Ela's? Thanks
mikeybc
Listener
Just became a Rega owner last week, I picked up a factory sealed RP3 with Elys2 for less than what an RP3 used to sell for without the cartridge .
I'll do the subplatter and belt mod in the new year though mine runs true thankfully. I had fears of the dreaded IGD but haven't detected any yet.
I'll do the subplatter and belt mod in the new year though mine runs true thankfully. I had fears of the dreaded IGD but haven't detected any yet.
euromut
Active Member
Looks good. As many other will tell you, sub platter makes the biggest difference in reducing the noise floor and speed stability. Ive used both the DeepGroove and the Groovetracer reference, Nothing wrong with either, but the Groovetracer is way nicer. If you change the belt, use one of the aftermarket ones. I like the Little Belter from Edwards audio $20 us, from analogue seduction, Or eeebay.
euromut
Active Member
I'm back again, This time with a custom made off board motor mount.
Machined from white Delrin, it holds the motor snugly in a cup with no hardware, and is trimmed to fit inside the Rega motor pocket without making any contact.
I have it sitting on 1/2 inch Sorbothane feet, and it rests on my acrylic sub plinth.
I also upgraded my TT table, the top is now made of a 20x20x1.5 inch butcher block.
I was honestly suprised by the difference. After a quick session with Billy Joel's - the Stranger. The background is now dead silent. I never even realized how much noise was coming from the motor.
Machined from white Delrin, it holds the motor snugly in a cup with no hardware, and is trimmed to fit inside the Rega motor pocket without making any contact.
I have it sitting on 1/2 inch Sorbothane feet, and it rests on my acrylic sub plinth.
I also upgraded my TT table, the top is now made of a 20x20x1.5 inch butcher block.
I was honestly suprised by the difference. After a quick session with Billy Joel's - the Stranger. The background is now dead silent. I never even realized how much noise was coming from the motor.
ppaul
New Member
Hi all, P7/9/RP6 feet need to be dremeled to fit on a RP3, power switch, I didn't want to redrill holes in the plinth
http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/ppaul01/media/IMG_1690_zpsgi0lcpci.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/ppaul01/media/IMG_1690_zpsgi0lcpci.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
CDinMB
Active Member
Thanks, it looked parallel to my eye, but since it isn't easy to change, I couldn't test to see if my slight hi end brittleness (I am being very critical here) was the angle or just the new cart. Using a HIFi test record, it gets through the third bias track with almost no perceptible buzz in the left channel, none at all in the right. Natural Harmonic was down about 10 hz so I assumed these are going to work well together. So I am happy with the setup and the sound overall. Took too many hours to get there!
I am running through a Schiit Mani, set for 47k impedance, and their recommended low output MM/hi output MC gain setting. Not sure if lowering the gain to the default MM setting on the Mani would affect the softness in the upper end? That is easy to try. Eventually I want a Mac tube preamp but budget considerations dictated something less expensive for now.
Using stock pad, looking at clear acrylic Perspex mat on eBay. Are these worth it?
System:
Rega RP6 totally stock
Denon DL110
Schiit Mani
Little Bear P5-1 (for iPhone input buffering)
McIntosh MC30s (rt ch on my bench for rebuild)
McIntosh MC40 (right channel stand-in for MC30)
Klipsch LaScala - Crites AL-3 crossovers
I am running through a Schiit Mani, set for 47k impedance, and their recommended low output MM/hi output MC gain setting. Not sure if lowering the gain to the default MM setting on the Mani would affect the softness in the upper end? That is easy to try. Eventually I want a Mac tube preamp but budget considerations dictated something less expensive for now.
Using stock pad, looking at clear acrylic Perspex mat on eBay. Are these worth it?
System:
Rega RP6 totally stock
Denon DL110
Schiit Mani
Little Bear P5-1 (for iPhone input buffering)
McIntosh MC30s (rt ch on my bench for rebuild)
McIntosh MC40 (right channel stand-in for MC30)
Klipsch LaScala - Crites AL-3 crossovers
euromut
Active Member
I would try the 42db gain setting. I ran mine at 43db with great results. 48db might be a little high. 47k loading is correct. Gain can definitely affect the brightness.
As others will attest, if your going to keep the glass platter, a cork mat would probably be best. I think in your case, an acrylic mat on top of the glass would exaggerate the brightness and ringing.
As others will attest, if your going to keep the glass platter, a cork mat would probably be best. I think in your case, an acrylic mat on top of the glass would exaggerate the brightness and ringing.
CDinMB
Active Member
The gain setting makes a big difference. At 48db the sound is pronounced like a loudness contour button but increases the sound stage placing the treble and bass far forward and also harsh treble. At the 42db setting the sound flattens and the drums recede to the stage. However, with the 42db setting comes a loud hum that I can partially defeat by holding the unit. I narrowed the cause down to putting the Gain2 switchs in the high position.
- G1 in low and G2 in high (42db) there is hum but music sounds good.
- G1 in high and G2 in low (48db) dead quiet but music is forward and harsh.
I expected the normal setting to be less prone to hum or artifacts. So is this something all Manis do or do I have a defective unit?
- G1 in low and G2 in high (42db) there is hum but music sounds good.
- G1 in high and G2 in low (48db) dead quiet but music is forward and harsh.
I expected the normal setting to be less prone to hum or artifacts. So is this something all Manis do or do I have a defective unit?
euromut
Active Member
Sorry, cant help you with that one. I have only used a Project Phono Box S and now a Creek Audio OBH-15 Mk2.
Do you have your TT-PSU Grounded to the Phono Pre? I didn't see a huge change from this, but some people have said it gets rid of hum.
The positioning of your Phono Pre-amp can have a major affect on hum also. I run a HH Scott LK-72 tube integrated amp, and if my Creek is too close, I get a ton of hum. Move it a few feet away, and it goes away completely.
Do you have your TT-PSU Grounded to the Phono Pre? I didn't see a huge change from this, but some people have said it gets rid of hum.
The positioning of your Phono Pre-amp can have a major affect on hum also. I run a HH Scott LK-72 tube integrated amp, and if my Creek is too close, I get a ton of hum. Move it a few feet away, and it goes away completely.
CDinMB
Active Member
The fact that it was dead quiet at max volume at 48db and loud hum at 1/4 vol for 42db told me this was not something I was going to fix. I contacted Schiit and got a label to return the Mani. They are shipping a new unit. I tried moving it and grounding it multiple places. Nothing helped, most things made it louder! So no vinyl for a day or two.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Thanks for the suggestions!
