Rega Owner's Thread

[Wuss]

Just finished fitting the M Lim top and bottom bracing. I epoxy'd them to the plinth as advised. This has to be the final upgrade to my 30 year old Planar 3 / RB300. So far it's had an arm rewire by AudioOrigami. Tangospinner sub platter and double pully, Ruby bearing. 24V dc motor with Rega TT PSU to give switched speed change, GrooveTracer Acrylic Platter. Michell counterwieght, and finally the top and bottom bracing. (no affiliate to any of these suppliers.). Very happy with the result. It's gone from a very average deck to one I'd never consider selling. Sound is so detailed and precise but that is also helped by the Nagaoka MP500 at the end of the arm.

 

[euromut]

Some very nice upgrades and a beautiful TT. Many of the same are on my short list. Next up is either the Michell counterweight, or Groovetracer acrylic platter.

 

[Wuss]

Some very nice upgrades and a beautiful TT. Many of the same are on my short list. Next up is either the Michell counterweight, or Groovetracer acrylic platter.

Thanks for the kind comment's. Both the upgrades you mentioned had a big effect on the sound. The Mitchell counterweight is very good as it provides 2 counterweight's that make it easier to set up different cartridges. The order of my upgrade was bearing, motor, arm rewire, counterweight, sub-platter / pulley, cartridge, platter, finally bracing.

I also polished the lid after my wife spilled nail polish remover on it, but that's another story.

 

[euromut]

I fitted some new legs to my RP3. Machined aluminum ones I got in an action. They were designed to have a machine screw thread into the top of them. But I drilled through and countersunk the hole from the bottom to accept the factory Rega screws. They are sitting on 30mmx5mm Sorbothane pads.

The 3/4 inch axcrylic sub plinth is sitting on 50mm Sorbothane hemispheres.

 

[euromut]

Finally joining the Groovetracer family. I added an acrylic platter today. Loving the results. I cant believe how improves this package is over a Standard RP3.

Over the last couple of weeks I also added the TangoSpinner Brass drive pulley and Edwards Audio Little Belter blue drive belt.

So far:
RP3 with both cool grey and white plinths (Depending on Mood).
Denon DL-110 MC Cartidge.
Ceramic main bearing w/ Motul 300 75-90w gear oil.
Mystery alloy / stainless sub platter.
Groovetracer acrylic platter.
J A Michell Rega clamp.
Tango spinner brass pulley and Edwards Audio Little Belter.
Custom Aluminum feet with Sorbothane pads.
Custom 3/4 inch acrylic sub plynth on 2 inch sorbothane hemispheres.
Pro-Ject Phono Box S.

Next, either a TT-PSU or Phoenix Engineering - Falcon Digital PSU.

Playing with a blue LED under the platter.

 

[Wuss]

Nice... You will love the TT PSU. So much easier will all the 45rpm doubles that are appearing nowadays. All you need is the Mitchell counterbalance and you're done

Just a point the TT PSU works with the Rega 24v DC motor and (I may be wrong) but I think the Falcon works with the older style AC motor,

 

[euromut]

My local dealer was sitting on a brand new pre face-lift TT PSU, So I was able to pick that up very reasonably. That and the addition of a good Furman power conditioner has really cleaned up the sound.

I am waiting for my Tangospinner dual pulley, Ill be trying to run dual Edwards blue belts with that.

I also added a J A Michell technoweight over the weekend. I have only been able to listen to about 5 albums since, but it really seemed to add some detail to the bass. I am very happy with how my RP3 sits at this point, though I am working on "upgrading" the plinth

On a side note, I was a little disappointing as to the finish on the Technoweight. Not that it was made poorly or anything. Its a very nice piece or equipment. I just wanted a little more flash. So I took it back off and spend about an hour polishing it up on a 10 inch buff wheel.

Before

After

 

[Wuss]

WOW that is so neat. I wish I could do that with mine! What more can you do to the plinth. You have the bracing already, I used M Limm top and bottom bracing on my plinth and epoxy'd it in place. Only other thing I could think you could do is move to a Quest plinth.

 

[euromut]

Thank you.

I am sure you could find a local metal finisher that could do it ( and probably better than mine). I did not remove the stub shaft, just the 2 piece weight, and the adjusting knob. I just run a 10 inch buff polishing wheel attached to my bench grinder and some red rouge compound. The stainless parts are very easy, and nearly impossible to damage. The aluminum knob is a little more fiddly, and you have to work slower with less pressure to get the finish right. After it was all polished up, I just put a coat of alloy wheel wax (for cars) on to keep the finish bright.

If you can be without your table for a few days (This is the hard part) I am sure you could take it to a finisher who could turn it around very quickly.

 

[Wuss]

Thank you.

I am sure you could find a local metal finisher that could do it ( and probably better than mine). I did not remove the stub shaft, just the 2 piece weight, and the adjusting knob. I just run a 10 inch buff polishing wheel attached to my bench grinder and some red rouge compound. The stainless parts are very easy, and nearly impossible to damage. The aluminum knob is a little more fiddly, and you have to work slower with less pressure to get the finish right. After it was all polished up, I just put a coat of alloy wheel wax (for cars) on to keep the finish bright.

If you can be without your table for a few days (This is the hard part) I am sure you could take it to a finisher who could turn it around very quickly.

Cheers. Why didn't I think of that

 

[euromut]

Cheers. Why didn't I think of that

Oh yes, or you can send it to me in New York and I can do it for you. I think shipping would kill that though.

On the plinth. I am actually trying to acquire a RP6 plinth. I like the gloss look so much more.

 

[skillace]

My Rega Planar 3 (bought second hand) have some speed variation issue. It never touches 33.3rpm. It rotates like 32.6-32.9, continuously varying up and down. Any idea?? It has an AC synchronous motor and a simple PCB.

 

[Sandbar92]

My Rega Planar 3 (bought second hand) have some speed variation issue. It never touches 33.3rpm. It rotates like 32.6-32.9, continuously varying up and down. Any idea?? It has an AC synchronous motor and a simple PCB.

Have you tried a new belt? Also, the subplatter may be out of round. Hold a pencil tip to the subplatter while it is spinning. If it is a sort of rough ride you need a new subplatter.

 

[skillace]

Yes, i've tried different belts. Now using the red silicon belt and prior to that it was even worse!
Not sure about the sub platter shape. But i have checked the pencil tip test and found no issues.
I have even replaced the motor suspension belt and stick the motor directly to the plinth with thick double sided tapes, but no noticeable changes.
This model is using a 110V AC motor but i measure only 91V across. Does replacing the current 12K Ohm resister with a higher value resistor
bring it closer to 110V and improve speed or replacing the plastic pulley with a metal pulley helps ?

 

[Wuss]

I put the 24v motor upgrade on mine and never looked back.

 

[euromut]

Ok, now Ive done it.

Made it a complete Bastard and a Liar....

It all began, a modest Rp3 (Nothing wrong with that at all).

Decided I wanted Cooler Grey

And Then......

Sorry for the crappy cell pics...

Questions is, Is it an RP3, or RP6?

Parts are as follows...
RP6 Plinth
RB303 Arm
J.A. Michelle Counterweight
Denon DL-110 Cart
Rega Main Bearing with Silicone Nitride thrust bearing and dampining rings
24V Motor
IsoKinetik motor thrust bearing
Gen-1 TT-PSU
Dual 33 1/3 Tangospinner brass pulley
Dual Edwards Audio Little Belters
Machined Aluminum/Stainless Sub Platter (RP3 height)
GrooveTracer Acrylic Platter
J.A. Michelle Rega Record Clamp
Machined Aluminum feet on 5mm Sorbothane Pads
3/4" black acrylic sub plinth on 2" Sorbothane hemispheres

Oh yeah, and the cool under platter lighting. Note, this makes it all sound about 5 times better 8)

What kinda of freak have I made here?

Big thanls to Gary at http://www.Analogueseduction.net for putting up with all my weird requests.

 

[euromut]

I am working on my own version of a filtered power supply for my Turntable. I was looking at the Swagman Lab versions, and figured I could pull something like that off.

I found a regulator circuit out of an old time clock at work, a power socket from a PC power supply, and ordered up a 24V toroidal transformer and 2.5/5.5mm plus from Parts Express. So far I have it wired up and tested at 28V AC with no load, which is perfect. I am just waiting for the enclosure and I'll get it finished up.

Ill be sure to update when its complete.

 

[Floyd15]

I've had the PEEK Bearing Sleeve since around April this year. I'm happy with it although I freely admit I havent done direct
comparisons as doing so is a bit of a pain in the arse. There seems to be improved detail especially in the lower frequencies.

One note of caution - when I first fitted it, the Groovetracer Sub Platter wouldn't sink into the PEEK Sleeve as it should. I determined
the problem to be the actual spindle hole in the plinth was a bit too tight. So I rubbed the inside of the spindle hole down slightly
with a piece of fine sandpaper until the PEEK Sleeve dropped in easier. The Sub Platter then dropped down slowly into the sleeve
as it should. Job done.

My deck also sits on a custom made wooden frame that has adjustable legs.

This is the Michael Lim Motor Isolation Base as I was fitting it. He designed it for the Rega Premotec Motors so I had to change
some of the parts used in it to fit it to my deck, namely the hex spacers. The GT Ref Sub Platter can be seen in the background.

This is the motor in position via the Michael Lim Isolation Base. The black bolts are loosely finger screwed into the top hex spacers
to simply act as placeholders - I can tell by their position when the motor is in the right place, they dont even touch the holes in
the plinth. The increased hole in the plinth is the result of the Origin Live motor kit not functioning as it should've in the past - I had
to increase the hole and force the position of the motor back as far as I could in order to get it to run slow enough. As I mentioned
already, the kit has worked fine for the last two years.

And, for the last few years I've been using the AT450E cartridge I bought back in 1993. I have a variety of stylii to use with it, and
there's still quite a few more I've got to try and get my hands on yet...

James H

Love that surround,where did you get it from and how much? Thanks

 

[euromut]

I received my enclosure. I should have gone for something a little nicer. But this one is functional. The unit is now fully functional, and I believe it cleaned up the sound a little bit. It may be a placebo, but at least I know the TT is now getting fully filtered and fused power.

It seems like the turntable starts up stronger now. I still give it a spin to save on belt wear, but It feels like it has more torque.

I have listened to about 15 albums using it. I love the added start up torque, and it tends to slow down a lot less when using a brush on the record. Speed it dead stable, if still a little Rega typical fast at 33.37rpm.

I couldnt deal with the silver, So I took it apart and painted the case black. I wanted it to virtually disappear into my system.

I also replaced the unknown alloy sub-platter with a Groovetracer Reference. Still not a true RP6, but I like it.

 

[Frank Sol]

Really cool stuff , euromut