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Sansui 5000

I can see two ways to interpret your question, answers are:
1: Just fine. I've had a unit stable for a couple of years with my aforementioned combination.
2: Zip tied to the heatsink. Epoxy is a viable alternative.

If you're asking about how it works electronically that is way beyond my level, but most SS amps do have something somewhere in their architecture for this purpose.
 
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Ok Ill try those transistors as they are easier to find....

on another note I am getting around 60 vdc now instead of the 70+ vdc I was getting earlier. I did put in a 60 watt bulb in the dbt and no change so now to figure what controls the high voltage across the driver boards. Isn't it the tr 807 and those transistors responsible for the voltage into the driver boards?

The TR803 I think I'll try the KSC1845
 
It'll take me a bit to process your question fully but on the short of it I think TR807 gets the same voltage as the board as they are both fed off the line from the fuse. I'm not trained in electronics but as I understand it voltage through a circuit is like water in a pipe, restrictions on either end can affect how fast it passes through. Does it go back up to 70+ when you take it off the DBT? I get about 70V through a 75W DBT. About 78V directly plugged into a 120V socket.
 
I am getting a large voltage drop on incoming voltage to the unit while using the dim bulb…. 120 down to 95 so I need to find if I have an issue with that…
 
jnl1105 said:
while using the dim bulb
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Probably normal while connected through a dim bulb. The bulb is a series resistance. It's meant to act as a current limit, and should be used at idle only. You should have the volume at zero. Any attempts to test with an audio signal will most likely result in clipping and distortion.
 
jnl1105 said:
I am getting a large voltage drop on incoming voltage to the unit while using the dim bulb…. 120 down to 95 so I need to find if I have an issue with that…
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That's why you're getting 60V at the transistor. As I said before: " I get about 70V through a 75W DBT. About 78V directly plugged into a 120V socket." That means 78V without the DBT. I'm not surprised running a 60W bulb would be even lower.
 
Guido57 said:
That's why you're getting 60V at the transistor. As I said before: " I get about 70V through a 75W DBT. About 78V directly plugged into a 120V socket." That means 78V without the DBT. I'm not surprised running a 60W bulb would be even lower.
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yeah absolutely correct...verified tested and proven
 
I was just inventorying what all components were used on my boards and the tr801 supposed to be the same as the tr803 2sc984 are not the same the tr 801 is actually a c1000
 

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1845 for TR803, 1815 for TR801. 1845 can sometimes have issues in the TR801 spot, from what I've read. 801 and 803 do not have to be the same.
 
I wonder if the problems associated are with the boards that had the c1000 for the tr801 instead of the same as the tr803
 
jnl1105 said:
what problems have you heard about?
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IIRC,(unlikely), the speculation on the 1845 was it wasn't as stable with the lower voltage TR801 sees.
jnl1105 said:
I wonder if the problems associated are with the boards that had the c1000 for the tr801 instead of the same as the tr803
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You are over thinking this. Simply put 803 and 801 have different purposes.
 
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I ordered sall the transistors for the drivers as well as capacitors so everything but a few capacitors will be replaced so if it doesn't work after this it will be on me LOL
 
While you're at it replace the wires to the fuses and to the output transistors with something better. Silicone or Teflon insulation, more resistant to heat. 18 (min) or 16gauge, leave enough length to work with, factory length is a harder to work with minimum. Take your time, those circuit traces can be fragile.
 
Guido57 said:
While you're at it replace the wires to the fuses and to the output transistors with something better. Silicone or Teflon insulation, more resistant to heat. 18 (min) or 16gauge, leave enough length to work with, factory length is a harder to work with minimum. Take your time, those circuit traces can be fragile.
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yeah I noticed the traced and I normally use solid non insulated silver solid wire to redo the traces that get loose.... I hate those 2 wires that feed the boards from the inboard side
 
I believe you're referring to the signal input and its shield(ground). I've come up with a shoe-maker way of dealing with that. On the shield I cut a notch to release the black and blue wires, allowing me to move the shield and have more room to work. Another way is to remove those wires from the F-1038 boards, difficult because it's a wound wire connection; those being a grand PITA to remove cleanly. Another way is disconnect the signal wire from the F-1051 board, untangle them from the wrappings holding them in the bundle, work them through then back when you're done. This last approach is what I'll take next time I get my hands on one of these receivers. Note the shield is not connected at the 1051 board.
 
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