Sansui AU-217 Restoration
- Thread starter dedero
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- au-217 recap restoration sansui
I've been using an AU-217ii for years and daily the last two as my 517 & 417 were getting work done. It's paired with JBL L19's and performs well above it's weight as a entry level *17 model. At 40W per channel it sounds much meatier, great clean Bass and Mid and happy with the high range. With the bigger boys back from rehab, you can easily hear the smaller amps' "heritage" in the *17 range. That reliable, recognizable Sansui sound that delivers so well in these 1978 & 79 units.
Nothing done to it but this great thread has me thinking it should benefit from some upgrades. <<<<<<<< It's in the Avatar on the left, below the timer.
For those of you that have an AU-317 as well, apart from the power increase, how would you rate their respective performance?
Nothing done to it but this great thread has me thinking it should benefit from some upgrades. <<<<<<<< It's in the Avatar on the left, below the timer.
For those of you that have an AU-317 as well, apart from the power increase, how would you rate their respective performance?
I agree. I have an original (unmolested) 317 that sounds very much like the 717 that has been fully restored. The 317 is slated for a rebuild somewhere in the next few months. I don't expect the sound to change very much. The 317 runs out of gas at a point, but that point is far louder than I ever listen for more than a few seconds.
Jefft91
Active Member
I'm not sure how I missed this post until now. I'm in the process of restoring a 217 as well - having completed a recap and other unreliable components. Leestereo, you've inspired me to use this unit to test out changes before committing them to a more expensive unit.
peanutbutter
New Member
Its glue... the caps aren't leaking... did you measure them?
kgwrocks
New Member
Hello. This is my first post (reply I guess) here. I have an AU-217 that I got for $70 in a pawn shop around 1981 (I think). It has run since then just fine. But last fall it died (power light went off and no sound).
So glad to find this thread.
I have the schematics.
I am going to replace all of the electrolytics and any resistors whose values have drifted. Should I replace the power transistors as well (the 4 large ones)? Is there anything else that I should replace? I am putting together a parts list so that hopefully I can get what I need with one order.
Thanks in advance
So glad to find this thread.
I have the schematics.
I am going to replace all of the electrolytics and any resistors whose values have drifted. Should I replace the power transistors as well (the 4 large ones)? Is there anything else that I should replace? I am putting together a parts list so that hopefully I can get what I need with one order.
Thanks in advance
Jefft91
Active Member
I think your approach of shotgun replacement of capacitors, ect, might make it difficult to determine the cause of the problem with your amp. You should first diagnose the issue, fix it, then consider a restoration.
1) Check the fuse(s) first. If blown, check for shorted output transistors. Search the forums if you don't know how to do this.
2) If outputs are not shorted, you could try bringing it up on a dim bulb tester. If it glows brightly, you have a short to track down. If it dims and the relay clicks proceed to step 3. If not, check for DC offset at the output of the amp stages (search forum for descriptions on how to do this. You're probing where the emitter resistors for the PNP and NPN outputs connect together).
3) Even if the relay clicks, you should check that there is no DC voltage on your speaker terminals before connecting speakers.
4) Try running a signal through the amp.
Take this a step at a time and feel free to report back and ask more questions.
1) Check the fuse(s) first. If blown, check for shorted output transistors. Search the forums if you don't know how to do this.
2) If outputs are not shorted, you could try bringing it up on a dim bulb tester. If it glows brightly, you have a short to track down. If it dims and the relay clicks proceed to step 3. If not, check for DC offset at the output of the amp stages (search forum for descriptions on how to do this. You're probing where the emitter resistors for the PNP and NPN outputs connect together).
3) Even if the relay clicks, you should check that there is no DC voltage on your speaker terminals before connecting speakers.
4) Try running a signal through the amp.
Take this a step at a time and feel free to report back and ask more questions.
Welcome!
Sage advice from @Jefft91 - figure out what is wrong before just going all in on new components (that may not even need to be replaced in the case of a proper restoration). Sounds like fuse(s) or some kind of power supply issue. And you should not need to replace outputs during your restoration, unless they've failed.
The AU-217 is a fantastic amp. Love mine. Have many many hours listening to it. Paired up with sensitive speakers, it just shines. This is my restoration thread here -
Sansui AU-217 restoration
Starting on my Sansui AU-217 restoration. This particular unit is in great condition. It is all original. And really no cosmetic flaws. When I received the unit it did not power up. I found a cut in the power cord and one of the conductors was fully sheared. I temporarily repaired the cord with...
audiokarma.org
If you are wanting a BOM that is of exceptional caliber and well supported you could contact @Leestereo and inquire with him to see if he can offer some guidance. Use the mail icon in the upper right of your screen.
You can also start posting pictures and asking for troubleshooting help - you will find much support and camaraderie here. I would suggest starting your own thread for your project as well. You'll get the best participation rate that way.
Keep us posted!
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kgwrocks
New Member
I was not going to replace components willy nilly. But since it is over 40 years old, replacing the electrolytics is sort of a given. I'm pretty sure that it has lasted so long it that I leave it on all of the time (not sure if that is a good thing, but I had heard that leaving SS amps on helps the components last longer). And it ran fine up to the end of last year.
I've been super busy, so I have not had time to dig into it yet.
But initially, I did open it up and take a look. Fuses are good and I recall that the relay still clicked.
Also note that I have build Hifi tube gear (my main system for the last 24 years), tube guitar amplifiers and SS guitar pedals and power supplies. I'm a little intimidated about working on the AU-217, but am confident I can do it.
And great idea to start a new thread. I will do that.
thanks - Kevin
I've been super busy, so I have not had time to dig into it yet.
But initially, I did open it up and take a look. Fuses are good and I recall that the relay still clicked.
Also note that I have build Hifi tube gear (my main system for the last 24 years), tube guitar amplifiers and SS guitar pedals and power supplies. I'm a little intimidated about working on the AU-217, but am confident I can do it.
And great idea to start a new thread. I will do that.
thanks - Kevin
kgwrocks
New Member
Thanks for the tips. I do plan to go over everything when I get time. I need to build a bulb tester (been meaning to anyway). I do have a oscope, signal generator and other goodies.
- Kevin
Jefft91
Active Member
@kgwrocks I think with your background fixing this amp will be pretty easy. Everything in this amp is easily accessible and the component count is low. Also, in my experience, these amps don't get abused like some of the higher end units, and generally don't suffer from massive failures. Hopefully yours follows that trend. We'll look for your new post when you get started.
they are both good caps. The main thing you want to do is clean all the glue off the PCB before you start installing new parts. Have done quite a few 217s, not too difficult to work on. I use one 217 on my PC speakers which has been on for 24/7 for the last 14 years without any issues.
tough to say. There are three areas with these units to be concerned with.
1. the physical age of the unit.
2, the conditions it was stored in (i.e. a house or out in a barn or garage).
3. The amount of the infamous Sansui Glue that was used during original assembly of the unit.
If you get lucky and get one of the copies that has less Sansui glue on it, you may be able to plug and play for a while. I have seen a few 317s like that.
Quite a few years ago I found a really clean 217 series 1. Tons of glue was used in it. The glue had corroded through the legs of one main filter cap. But somehow the thing was still functional at some level. I cleaned all the glue off (a time consuming process that you can't rush).
Very slim, even if the seller says it's been 'serviced' - this means nothing in many cases, but rarely you can find one that has been 'restored' - rather than only 'recapped' two different things in my book. - good luck with your search.
Update:
Just read the post above +1 from me.