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Schiit Fans ?

Schiit is going to outlast Parasound by a long shot. Schiit continues to offer great products for a decent price, Parasound equipment has doubled in price in the last couple years and they are going to price themselves out of existence. I bought my Parasound A21+ amps for $2400 in 2020... they now go for $4600... crazy. I have sold off almost all of my Parasound equipment for what i paid for it new and used the $$ to buy my Schiit equipment and pocket some cash (IMO, the Schiit stuff sounds, especially the Skoll phono amp as I can change the settings to adjust the sound to what I like to hear, not what John Curl thinks I should hear).
 
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I ordered a matched quad of the new APOS Ray Select 6SN7 tubes to go in the Freya+ in the living room system, the Psvane Horizon CV181-AT (6SN7) will go into the Freya+ in the office. BTW, the Horizon tubes are getting better with every use... I have them playing the classical FM station in Santa Fe right now, they have become very well balanced as the bass decreased a bit which sounds better(still plenty of it when called for). The mid range is very dynamic and the highs are just so sweet. Beginning to love these things..

The Ray tubes are supposed to sound better, so I figured I'd get a set before the upcoming tariffs jack the price up 50%...

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Yes, I( know. I really like the various new amps from Fosi, Aiyima and SMSL but I understand Schiit's position on them. That's the whole point in comparing a low watt AB to the D amps.
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I have two Gjallarhorns I run as monoblocks and they sound really good. I also have a 2 watt Rekkr driving a pair of 90 dB speakers and it sounds really good too. I own several class D amps; Aiyima T9 Pro, A07, T8 Pro, Douk H7 and I think that’s about it. They all sound about the same and to my ears not as good as my Schitt stuff including the little Schiit Rekkr.

I also have two gen 1 Aegir that I run as monoblocks, not class AB of course, but man they sound really freaking good. I use the class D stuff in a small bedroom system and it’s perfect for that.

Having said all of that, my best sounding amp is my Dynaco ST-35. Tubes!
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Putting the final pieces of my system together and have been looking at the Snake Oil Mini Links. Does anyone use these or have experience with them?

Looks like a nice idea to keep things neat.
 
Putting the final pieces of my system together and have been looking at the Snake Oil Mini Links. Does anyone use these or have experience with them?

Looks like a nice idea to keep things neat.
I don't have any experience with them but they do look like good quality stuff that keeps your space tidy... If I had a "Schiit Stack" like those shown in the photos I would definitely try them.
 
I found a TV/Stereo repair place here in ABQ that has a Lorenz TV7 A/U tube tester, they checked 8 tubes for me for $40. (I don't know if that is cheap or expensive, probably just paying them for their time). They repair all kinds of vintage equipment -they were working on a couple Magnavox consoles from the 60's and a Beogram turntable with bad capacitors--they don't work cheap but cheap work doesn't last.

My set of Psvane Horizon CV181 AT tubes that I bought as two separate pairs had tags on top that said 9.0 / 9.0 (tubes 1 & 2), and 8.5 /8.5 (tubes 3 & 4):

Tube 1: 88/89 8.6/8.6 mA and 2200 gm (whatever that measures? The tech said above 1250 gm on the TV7 tester is good, as is 50/50 and 6.5 mA)
Tube 2: 89/90 8.6/8.7 mA and 2250 gm
Tube 3: 84/86 8.0/8.1 mA and 2100 gm
Tube 4: 83/86 8.0/8.1 mA and 2050 gm
The tech said these were pretty well matched for a Freya+ as long as I keep the pairs together and not mix them up, plus I should put the stronger pair in the gain side. These tubes sound really really good, though some folks on this site say they must suck because they're Psvane and, Heaven forbid, bought from Amazon. So much for them being junk, I just hope they last for a while, guess I'll find out over time.

The APOS Ray Select 6SN7 were bought as a matching quad directly from APOS, but had no stickers on top, hence the reason for having them tested:
Tube 1: 97/98 9.5/9.5 mA and 2650 gm
Tube 2: 98/98 9.5/9.6 mA and 2700 gm
Tube 3: 98/99 9.5/9.6 mA and 2700 gm
Tube 4: 98/99 9.6/ 9.6 mA and 2700 gm
The tech said these were about as perfect a match as is possible, and they are very strong. They are currently in the Freya+ in the office "breaking in", I'll play them tomorrow after they idle all night. In the mean time, I must search my CD collection to ensure there aren't any Nickelback CDs in there...

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I put new feet on the new Freya+ and moved it out to the main stereo with the Ray Select Tubes- Nirvana ! The PCB is version 1.10 and has a heat sink over a couple of transistors that are close to one of the transformers, also changed from mostly TDk/EPCOS capacitors to half and half EPCOS and Wurth (the red ones).
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Not sure what a Lorenz TV-7 is. I have a TV-7 (like a ton of other people here).

Kinda wondering where that gm measurements stuff is coming from.
 
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Not sure what a Lorenz TV-7 is. I have a TV-7 (like a ton of other people here).

Kinda wondering where that gm measurements stuff is coming from.
They wrote it down like I typed it up... I thought they said the brand was a "lorenz"... The only one I understand is the mA number (higher is better), I don't know what the 98/98 means or the 2700 gm... something to do with gas emission ?

Edit-- I found their scribble sheet, looks like "Lorenz" was a type of tube they were testing just before they did mine (they have boxes upon boxes of old tubes) it also says 50/50 1250gm & 6.5mA min spec TV7 D/U
 
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How tough was it to get the PCB out of the chassis?
Super easy- put some tape on the three buttons so they don't fall out then remove the volume knob and the nut/washer . With a small thin flat bladed screwdriver pry the top loose 1/8" (from the bottom) then slide the top off - there are 4 little flanges that lock it in place. Turn it upside down and remove the small silver screws then put it right side up again, remove all the black screws from the back panel. The PCB will then slide right out. I had to drill the 1/4" foot holes out to 5/16" so that my "ultra thin head" 8mm screws would fit.
Cover them with electric tape just for safety( don't want to short anything out).

When you put the top back on be careful not to slide the top on too far or crank down on the volume control nut- this will slide the top on too far and the buttons will be stuck in like you are holding them down and nothing will work-just blinking light hell ! So make sure the buttons go in & out before to try to use it (I found this out the hard way when putting the feet on my first Freya+).

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Just got an Email from Schiit--lots of stuff on the "Last Call" list for decent money (they are clearing out the non Forkbeard equipment) and the magnificent TYR mono block is going away - replaced by the Wotan (which cannot be run in mono).

 
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Yeah, procrastinators take notice. Freya+ for $749 stands out
I bought a silver one for $849 three weeks ago (damn- I could have saved $50 if I waited). The Tyrs are about $400 off for the pair. I guess they are killing it off because they were not selling that many at $3200 per pair, but they will probably sell a lot of Wotans for $1999 (If I needed a new amp the Wotan would be on the top of my list).
 
I bought a silver one for $849 three weeks ago (damn- I could have saved $50 if I waited). The Tyrs are about $400 off for the pair. I guess they are killing it off because they were not selling that many at $3200 per pair, but they will probably sell a lot of Wotans for $1999 (If I needed a new amp the Wotan would be on the top of my list).
Jason just mentioned that the Tyr will be rereleased, once it's Forkbearded. Plus, he has plans to add a few new tweaks as well. But, there will be a price increase on Tyr 2.
 
Got a Gjallarhorn on the way - early Xmas present. Will pair with the Saga 2 preamp I got last month. I'm interested to see if any noticeable differences between the Schiit and my other Class D smaller amps when paired with the Saga.

I am running the new Saga 2 preamp in front of the Fosi V3 amp. I run the Saga in high gain. My speakers are the new MoFi Sourcepoint 8 speakers. They are 8ohms and not efficient. Class D amps can get bright when driving 8ohm speakers near their limits. With the Saga 2, all is balanced and sounding great.

As a company, Schiit innovates and changes their products often - always punching beyond the price point. I admire them.

Sometimes they misfire, but that's a risk you take when you choose to innovative quickly.

Snade
 
Ordered a Kara and a Skoll on Brown Wednesday. Since I am impatient, I selected overnight shipping and I picked them up at FedEx this morning. Everything is connected up. I am currently listening to a CD thru an Yggdrasil OG > the Kara > Aegir OG > Klipsch LaScala AL3 Speakers. I have about 3 hours on the Kara and all I can say is WOW! The Kara is definitely an improvement over a Freya S, it sounds fuller and more detailed. I will try out the Skoll later today.
 
Ordered a Kara and a Skoll on Brown Wednesday. Since I am impatient, I selected overnight shipping and I picked them up at FedEx this morning. Everything is connected up. I am currently listening to a CD thru an Yggdrasil OG > the Kara > Aegir OG > Klipsch LaScala AL3 Speakers. I have about 3 hours on the Kara and all I can say is WOW! The Kara is definitely an improvement over a Freya S, it sounds fuller and more detailed. I will try out the Skoll later today.
I think you'll love the Skoll once you get the settings worked out for your cartridge ( I have two of them !)
 
I think you'll love the Skoll once you get the settings worked out for your cartridge ( I have two of them !)
I have used the Skoll for about 20 minutes and it is a definite improvement over the Mani 1. Since my cartridge is an Ortofon 2M Bronze, I went with the default settings for a MM cartridge and it sounds amazing.
 
Just went to the site, I was going to pull the trigger on the $749 Freya +. I should have done it when I was looking Monday, they still had black avalible, I do not do silver gear.

Oh well, procrastination is a thing.
 
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