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Sir.Byrd's Push-Pull 6V6GTA tube build

Gotcha, I thought you were insinuating that there was some benefit to have tolerances of .0001 compared to something like .001 or even .01 with these parts. If you are simply talking about having some good metal finishing done on the parts, that's an expectation that would need to be set up front with the machine shop. There is no excuse for sloppy work if requirements are defined adequately.
 
There are degrees of finish and care taken with stuff. Some people are better about making things good and clean than others, but sometimes it doesn't matter as much either. The company I work for typically uses this outfit in California for fabrication work and it often comes in so-so as far as fit and finish. My boss has a lathe and a mill in his basement and he's done some work on various things for the company that look a lot better than the corporate-ordered stuff. On the other hand, the corporate stuff is plenty fine for what it has to do, but nobody is going to look at it and go "wow, thats clean work". For something sitting in a living room, I'd want "wow, that looks nice" rather than "well I guess it gets the job done".
 
Working today at the shop, had to inset the back panel and drill relief holes, and also modify the top plate a bit since I made a mistake in my drawing.
 
Sir.Byrd said:
Working today at the shop, had to inset the back panel and drill relief holes, and also modify the top plate a bit since I made a mistake in my drawing.
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Now that "perfection" is out the window, perhaps you should be satisfied with well-earned subjective happiness? ;)
 
Squidward said:
Now that "perfection" is out the window, perhaps you should be satisfied with well-earned subjective happiness? ;)
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You can't even tell I had to work on them. The only thing I had to do was enlarge each tube socket hole by 1.2mm in diameter. Totally covered up. ;)
 
Squidward said:
Are you bothering to get them re-anodized?
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One of these photos will answer that question.

Inset the back plate
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I had to dado a trough that extended the whole width, minus 1/4" on each side.
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This is after adjusting all of the tube socket holes, see the shiny aluminum?
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You can't see it at all, after I top-mount the sockets
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Clamped up (this is the answer to the "Are you bothering to get them re-anodized?)
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Relief holes drilled into the back.
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Squidward said:
Are you bothering to get them re-anodized?
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I don't think I'd re-anodize if it's hidden completely under a component. Too much can go wrong when you try to reverse the first process. As far as quality machine shop work, I've seen 30 years of careless work along side of quality craftsmanship, and there is a huge difference! You should see what a poorly programed tool path does for fit and finish. Or even the proper use of a file on burrs that get left behind by someone less respectful of a quality project. By all means .010 tolerance should be used when possible unless you have a requirement for a slip fit no shake. This project is a statement for putting your best foot forward, including tactfully finding solutions to small miss steps. Keep up the excellent work and problem solving!:thmbsp:
 
I was typing my last comments as you posted the new pics, nice work. I did notice one thing though, the inside corner of your wide dado stops right on a pith in that board. That could become an unstable corner over time, you normally should avoid using a board with a pith unless it is buried deep inside. Other than that, you're doing a fine job!!!!!:yes:
 
1978_DREAMER said:
I was typing my last comments as you posted the new pics, nice work. I did notice one thing though, the inside corner of your wide dado stops right on a pith in that board. That could become an unstable corner over time, you normally should avoid using a board with a pith unless it is buried deep inside. Other than that, you're doing a fine job!!!!!:yes:
Click to expand...

Ah, I just noticed that, in the last photo?
I think it should be fine, I'll double check it though.
 
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