I presume you need the weight of an armboard, which hasn't been drilled out?
Sony 2251 and/or 2250 owners thread
- Thread starter mackat
- Start date
MisterDK
Addicted Member
Yes, please! Either drilled or undrilled would be fine, thanks.
The skinny Mayware arm I want to use is probably quite a bit lighter than most other arms typically used on these tables and I want to keep suspension closely balanced without over-adjusting anything.. Only armboard I have is the cast aluminum Grace armboard..
MisterDK
Addicted Member
Very pretty!
Mine is quite light (it does have a pretty good sized hole for the SME tonearm (which includes room for adjustments). 550-grams or about 1.2 pounds.
adnick
Addicted Member
MisterDK
Addicted Member
Thanks, Andy!
flavio81
Turntable technician
I came across this post on Jean Nantais web page.
For those who don't know who is the legendary Jean Nantais, he's the one internet forumer who first recognized the potential of Lencos and other idler-wheel turntables and proposed replinthing (and other mods) to improve their performance beyond imaginable. He had a thread, "Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot" on another forum, that (IMO) single-handledly started the Lenco craze and the idler-wheel revival.
Today JN prepares highly modified Lencos ("rebuilt Lencos"], which have many of their components replaced for very high grade components. A Nantais lenco was chosen as the best turntable by noted blogge Arthur Salvatore, over several kinds of noted, very fine high-end tables.
JN is also a proponent of some DD turntables, in particular the Sony. He was selling a PS-2250 years ago. His comment on the item for sale:
I have a rebuilt Sony 2250 in heavy Classic plinth, finished in jatoba veneer, which may not match a rebuilt Lenco but will outperform very high-end belt-drives easily up to the $10K range, and also outperform the famed Technis SP-10 mKIIs in similar rebuilds (being much more fluid and openly dynamic and grain-free), but which has other advantages: it will not hum with unshielded cartridges like the Grados and Deccas, and its piano-key controls are instant and a pleasure to use. It is very heavy-duty, and similar to the Garrard 401 visually. I am asking only $1800, and will mount any tonearm to it if sent to me.
For those who don't know who is the legendary Jean Nantais, he's the one internet forumer who first recognized the potential of Lencos and other idler-wheel turntables and proposed replinthing (and other mods) to improve their performance beyond imaginable. He had a thread, "Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot" on another forum, that (IMO) single-handledly started the Lenco craze and the idler-wheel revival.
Today JN prepares highly modified Lencos ("rebuilt Lencos"], which have many of their components replaced for very high grade components. A Nantais lenco was chosen as the best turntable by noted blogge Arthur Salvatore, over several kinds of noted, very fine high-end tables.
JN is also a proponent of some DD turntables, in particular the Sony. He was selling a PS-2250 years ago. His comment on the item for sale:
I have a rebuilt Sony 2250 in heavy Classic plinth, finished in jatoba veneer, which may not match a rebuilt Lenco but will outperform very high-end belt-drives easily up to the $10K range, and also outperform the famed Technis SP-10 mKIIs in similar rebuilds (being much more fluid and openly dynamic and grain-free), but which has other advantages: it will not hum with unshielded cartridges like the Grados and Deccas, and its piano-key controls are instant and a pleasure to use. It is very heavy-duty, and similar to the Garrard 401 visually. I am asking only $1800, and will mount any tonearm to it if sent to me.
View attachment 2888845
Just ordered a 1/4” piece of - black - walnut to give this table some contrast… Can always change it later on if not to my liking..
That will look nice, once stained.
adnick
Addicted Member
Everyone has their favorite finish, prefer bug juice myself, if it needs to be a bit darker then amber, or orange will do that nicely. Let it dry and wax with your favorite wax….
One note, if buying store bought Shellac in a can cutting it with a bit more alcohol will enhance the ease of application and it will dry faster; about 6-8 ounces of isopropyl alcohol to a quart will work well.
Boiled linseed oil is another quick and easy finish, again just wax and buff after drying…..
With some walnut, especially non-kiln dried, I’ll just use a good wax with multiple coats…
VR
Andy
One note, if buying store bought Shellac in a can cutting it with a bit more alcohol will enhance the ease of application and it will dry faster; about 6-8 ounces of isopropyl alcohol to a quart will work well.
Boiled linseed oil is another quick and easy finish, again just wax and buff after drying…..
With some walnut, especially non-kiln dried, I’ll just use a good wax with multiple coats…
VR
Andy
MisterDK
Addicted Member
I may actually have some shellac crystals and denatured alcohol around here; not sure.. If not, I may try some “tung oil” on a scrap before proceeding..
adnick
Addicted Member
If you can grind the crystals they will dissolve quickly, use a coffee grinder myself, doesn’t seem to flavor the coffee too bad
Tung oil will work, and you can wax afterwards…
MisterDK
Addicted Member
First tried it on on a home-made skate board I made in ‘74, then later on, for French style handlebar tape on a mid ‘60s bicycle I was restoring. It works very nicely.
MisterDK
Addicted Member
Oh, yeah.
The newer piece I ordered kiln dried and hopefully, decent.. never know. Looking outside though, I may have a 55 YO piece of black walnut which could work - if thinned a bit. It’s actually air dried - and very gray in color right now. Going to need lots of sanding on that one..
The old one is a scrap from a black walnut bunk bed my grandfather built for me around 1965.
