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The best phono preamp under $1000 (aka the Hagerman Bugle upgrade thread)

Starting another Bulge build. Using a bugle3 pcb and starting with the best resistors and capacitors for the c4,c5,c6 positions. I have several options for opamps and will start with opa2210 in the U2,U3 positions and various options for the U4.

My system has changed so much since this first build that I think a new build would help with some fine tuning. Would like to put up a few pics as I go along with the build.
 
Hey Jim I have a question about resistor values. Do you think I can use a 9k1 for R10 instead of the 8.82Kohms that was needed with the Neumann pole removal?
 
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WizardWG4 said:
Slightly less accurate RIAA but I doubt you'll notice. Assuming C5 is exactly 10nf, 8.82K gives a 2,140 Hz treble rolloff and 9.1K works out to 2,084 Hz. RIAA spec is 2,122 Hz.

I think matching between channels is more important than ultimate precision to the RIAA curve.
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I don’t remember but didn’t you calculate the Neumann pole removal way back when we first started talking about it? What would 8.2k produce?

Reason is that I can obtain the 8.2 or 9.1 in a single Takman metal film resistor. Could buy an 8.2 and 620 ohm Takman to make the 8.82k w the pair in series?
 
WizardWG4 said:
Slightly less accurate RIAA but I doubt you'll notice. Assuming C5 is exactly 10nf, 8.82K gives a 2,140 Hz treble rolloff and 9.1K works out to 2,084 Hz. RIAA spec is 2,122 Hz.

I think matching between channels is more important than ultimate precision to the RIAA curve.
Click to expand...
Well put and good suggestions.

desertrat748 said:
Reason is that I can obtain the 8.2 or 9.1 in a single Takman metal film resistor. Could buy an 8.2 and 620 ohm Takman to make the 8.82k w the pair in series?
Click to expand...

FYI, Mouser has 8.81k 1% metal oxide resistors available. Personally, I'd rather have the value be accurate and matched on both channels than worry about using audiophile resistors, especially for resistors that aren't involved in cartridge loading, but it's up to you.
 
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WizardWG4 said:
Nice! This may motivate me to start populating my Bugle 3 board. I have all the parts for a standard build but have not gotten around to it.
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desertrat748 said:
Starting another Bulge build. Using a bugle3 pcb and starting with the best resistors and capacitors for the c4,c5,c6 positions. I have several options for opamps and will start with opa2210 in the U2,U3 positions and various options for the U4.
Click to expand...

Just to update the thread, I've been playing a lot with opamps in DACs which has sparked an interest in reviewing the opamps I am using my Bugle. I'm not going to list the number of devices I've tested as its bordering on silly, but I can tell you that nothing has changed my recommendation for U2 in the Bugle, still preferring the excellent OPA2210. That said, I really like the way the LT1358 performs in U4. Those are the two I would start with if I were beginning a new build. From there, I would use consider another OPA2210 for U3 if I felt my system needed energy. However to complement my system, I've been using an LME49723 for U3. Somewhat similar to the LM4562 but sounds slightly more accurate and natural to my ears (despite its inexpensive price.) I still have some combinations I am still testing, but that lineup results in the best overall performance I've gotten from the Bugle thus far.

The other recommendations (sliver mica and Amtrans capacitors, Takman REY resistors where available) have all remained the same. Looking forward to hearing about your builds!
 
I believe flipping in the direction of the arrow is "ON", so the picture you show is "OFF".

What's your desired Load and Gain?


Per the SPA datashee:
1738861081953.png

1738861058660.png
 
To preface, this build is for my own personal A/B testing purposes to compare different caps in C4,C5, C6 as well as using Takman metal film resistors, and some additional opamp swaps in U2-U4.

I know that there are some naysayers out there that might feel compelled to dismiss any sonic differences between components of same specifications but built of different materials. For those that are not interested or are thinking there isnt a difference, that they can tell me what I am hearing, this is not the case.

Take comfort from the fact that you were born with a tin ear and don’t have to worry about what you purchase in your audio quest. And if you can’t hear a difference between a silver mica vs pp cap, then you don’t have a dog in this game.

Forward: If I can build one of these than I know that anyone will be able to build one. So more progress on my second Bugle build with the Bugle3 pcb off of Jim’s website (Hagerman). Going with Takman metal film resistors whenever possible and 2 pairs of Dale resistors for the ones that I couldn’t get correct values in Takman.

Putting in Charcroft Auduo Silver Mica caps in C5. Pricey but worth it. Two of them are $53.82 Go back to the original posts on this thread from Oranda and see.

For C6 I have 3 options and for starting out I have chosen Mundorf MCap ZN capacitors. A little bit cheaper at $28 for the pair. These barely fit and probably won’t clear the plastic case used off the parts list. Maybe?

For C4 Using Amtrans AMCG metalized Polypropylene at a low cost of $18.

A few more soldering tasks and then I will be able to check out if I have built it correctly and test out for a trial run. IMG_2824.jpegIMG_2825.jpeg
 
desertrat748 said:
To preface, this build is for my own personal A/B testing purposes to compare different caps in C4,C5, C6 as well as using Takman metal film resistors, and some additional opamp swaps in U2-U4.

I know that there are some naysayers out there that might feel compelled to dismiss any sonic differences between components of same specifications but built of different materials. For those that are not interested or are thinking there isnt a difference, that they can tell me what I am hearing, this is not the case.

Take comfort from the fact that you were born with a tin ear and don’t have to worry about what you purchase in your audio quest. And if you can’t hear a difference between a silver mica vs pp cap, then you don’t have a dog in this game.

Forward: If I can build one of these than I know that anyone will be able to build one. So more progress on my second Bugle build with the Bugle3 pcb off of Jim’s website (Hagerman). Going with Takman metal film resistors whenever possible and 2 pairs of Dale resistors for the ones that I couldn’t get correct values in Takman.

Putting in Charcroft Auduo Silver Mica caps in C5. Pricey but worth it. Two of them are $53.82 Go back to the original posts on this thread from Oranda and see.

For C6 I have 3 options and for starting out I have chosen Mundorf MCap ZN capacitors. A little bit cheaper at $28 for the pair. These barely fit and probably won’t clear the plastic case used off the parts list. Maybe?

For C4 Using Amtrans AMCG metalized Polypropylene at a low cost of $18.

A few more soldering tasks and then I will be able to check out if I have built it correctly and test out for a trial run. View attachment 3436761View attachment 3436762
Click to expand...
Did you consider the Takman carbon film?
 
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