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Thorens owners group

Sonus Blue Gold or Sonus Gold Blue???

Hi Dave,
Yes, there is much info on the Gold Blue buried here on AK. I see that you refer to it as the Blue Gold. I've heard it both ways, but the two cartons I have say Gold Blue. :dunno: It doesn't matter. We all know what we're talking about.

Hi classic carl,

The Vinyl Engine cartridge database calls it the Blue Gold but the box it came in calls it the Gold Blue! I say the manufacturer wins by default so Gold Blue it is!

Best,
Dave
 
Those of you who have mounted SME with a solid mounting plate: did you have any problems with the job?
I am trying to do this, but it seems like there isn't enough space for the "screening can" to be "dropped" in. It is the subchassis that is blocking that area. Any ideas what to do? Unexpected issue to say the least! Picture taken from above, shows the part of subchassis which is causing the problem.
 

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I am trying to do this, but it seems like there isn't enough space for the "screening can" to be "dropped" in. It is the subchassis that is blocking that area. Any ideas what to do?

No idea, looks like a pain in the neck. I have never mounted an arm on either my 160 super or 165, I bought them pre-fitted. But where there is a will there is a way, I'm sure someone in this forum would have a solution for you.
 
The 160 super and a few others were designed from the factory to use the SME. But not all 16x or 145 was able to use an SME without cutting the chassis.
 
I had to do this to fit my Rega arm. The idea scared the crap out of me til I actually went to do the work: it was no big deal. I just used a Dremel tool with a heavy duty cutoff wheel. I started with a grinding wheel but that was going too slow, so I switched to the cutoff wheel and used that like a grinding tool. Took about a minute.
 
Thanks folks.
I got it mounted now, but not sure if there is enough space for the arm base to move back or forwards. Must check this with a protractor.

The cartridge mounting with a fixed headshell is a bloody pain in the arse too!

Took a picture below the plinth. Where should I put the ground wire? I have not checked the manual for this thing.
 

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Ground wire? Hmm. My SME did not have one attached either so what I did was as opposed to dealing with soldering I just sorta attached it to one of the mounting screws at the top then ran the other end to my phono pre. Works fine, looks a little goofy but works.

Thorens + SME is a win win.
 
The screw that holds the black cover or sleeve what ever you call it. Put the ground wire there.
 
Oh and one more thing. You are going to have to cut the chassis so the arm can move back and forth. You will need that adjustment.
 
The screw that holds the black cover or sleeve what ever you call it. Put the ground wire there.

Yes, I assume the one screw that is "at the back" of the screening can opposite to the phono plugs?

Hopefully I don't need to cut the subchassis. There is very little space for the arm base to move though. But I will need to check this with the cartridge aligment protractor. Will know more then.

Just had a first spin with the new arm. Everything seems to be working.

Loads of adjusting and learning for me though in the next few days and weeks.

By the way, how do you set the tracking weight and antiskate for their correct places? The scale "ends" at 1,5 grams and I should set these for 2,5?

I think I will purchase the RCA conversion kit at some point and rewire the arm. The original wires, cartridge tags and phono plugs should be changed, they are not in the best condition after all the years.
 

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Go to Vinyl engine and download the manual. It will only go to 1.5 Fixed Headshell SME's are not designed to run heavy tracking cartridges.
 
Go to Vinyl engine and download the manual. It will only go to 1.5 Fixed Headshell SME's are not designed to run heavy tracking cartridges.

Yes mate, have just dowloaded that one.
AT-95 is mounted temporarily right now, I am still waiting for Shure M97xE to arrive by post. Ordered that two weeks ago from lpgear. Will be more suitable for lower tracking weight with this arm.

Many thanks again for all advice. Keep up the good work. :thmbsp:
 
Don't be too hasty:-)
I went and up graded my 150 II once. I removed the oem wires and carefully installed some Hi Bucks heavily hyped wirings. Bit of a pain as I remember it. Truth was.. after a year I removed it and reinstalled the OEM wiring..Happily I stored them away carefully. Sounds better !
Be careful in what you wish for.
 
Thorens TD-146

Hi all,

This is the group to ask!
One owner, used sparingly, totally stock...MINT, cover and all.
Been in storage for years! Have not auditioned yet so uncertain about
belt condition - could be brittle, stretched, etc?

Is this something worth pursuing as a secondary deck? I'm not a tinkerer at all and maybe this deck is too finicky for me, I don't know.

I realize it's not one of Thorens heavy hitters, but a mint original owner table doesn't come around everyday.

Thoughts??

Thanks,

3kitty
 
I believe it would be worth buying, I have never used one of that model, I have a 160 super and 165, but it looks very similar to the 165 I have. Thorens tables are great, I have not seen a bad one yet. Go for it and make sure you lube the bearing and replace the belt/stylus. Good luck. :music:
 
Hi all,

This is the group to ask!
One owner, used sparingly, totally stock...MINT, cover and all.
Been in storage for years! Have not auditioned yet so uncertain about
belt condition - could be brittle, stretched, etc?

Is this something worth pursuing as a secondary deck? I'm not a tinkerer at all and maybe this deck is too finicky for me, I don't know.

I realize it's not one of Thorens heavy hitters, but a mint original owner table doesn't come around everyday.

Thoughts??

Thanks,

3kitty

If the price and condition is good, go for it +2
 
Alright. I've managed to rewire my SME 3009 S2 Improved, done the RCA conversion kit too. Shure M 97xE is mounted and I have been running its first hours during the last few days.

I am more than happy with everything, except for one thing:

Every now and then when lowering the cartridge on to the outer groove with cueing mechanism, the needle takes a sudden movement towards the spindle, I mean it slides or takes a little skip making a horrible sound. Not outwards, put inwards. The arm has a little horizontal movement towards the same point when lowering.

Any idea what to do with this annoying thing? I have cleaned the rubber thing there in the cueing system, and also the underside of the arm. The TT and platter are in balance, I have checked this with a bubble leveler. I have set antiskate and tracking force for 1,5 grams, everything done according to manual.
 
Every now and then when lowering the cartridge on to the outer groove with cueing mechanism, the needle takes a sudden movement towards the spindle, I mean it slides or takes a little skip making a horrible sound. Not outwards, put inwards. The arm has a little horizontal movement towards the same point when lowering.

I experience the same thing with my TT from time to time. I think it is the record that causes this to happen and not the tone arm or stylus. It may have to do with where the stylus lands when it is being lowered. I want to slow down the decent of my tone arm while queuing to see if the problem goes away. I don't think it does any harm but that is only a guess. I could be wrong.
 
Just got my first Thorens today: a TD 160 from ebay. I just couldn't resist.
The pic is from the ebay listing. I'm at work today but tomorrow I'll spend some time assessing it. I know I need a headshell but the the rest of it looks pretty good. There's a broken arm rest, but that's no big deal.
I'll planning a full rebuild of this: I'll make a new bottom board right away, clean up the bearings, probably replace the springs, and I'm working on a trade for an SME arm for it.

Well, that was my post "back when".

Now the work is (mostly) done and the table is up and running.
I applied the Chadwick mods with Dynamat on the top plate and cork on both sides of the subchassis.
I installed a Moth MKI tonearm (a Rega 251), built a bottom plate out of 3/4 birch plywood, and painted the plinth black. I've always liked the look of black plinths and I didn't fancy the look of the stock Thorens plinth anyway.
Here she is, running an AT OC9ML/II cart:

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I still need to dial in the suspension but even now, I am very, very happy with this table.
 
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