TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

[cleonjr]

Actually when you think about it, what do you suppose the actual cost is for the amplification circuit on a 400.00 integrated amp? I have no idea but if I had to guess, I'd think it'd be somewhere between 15 - 40 dollars. Once you start adding labor, power supplies, multiple inputs, fancy cases and nobs, owners manuals, slick literature/websites, customer support, advertising and the administrative expenses involved in running a large international company, you can see that it might not be hard to start with a 20.00 part and end up with a $400.00 product. Heck, it's not hard for a DIY'er to exceed 100-200 bucks with the 3116 if you start buying new caps, a fancy aluminum chassis and linear power supply right? And in that case, the labor is completely free.

Actually if anyone knows the answer to this stuff it'd be pretty interesting to find out. I could be way off, I just don't know.

I think You are pretty close on your calculations,I have priced all the parts and hardware needed to complete some of these projects,yes if you stick to your guns and go as frugal as possible you can stay under 200 dollar range,but Myself I tend to get going and want to build it with all the bells and whistles,and before you know it you have spent a small fortune.

doing these projects takes a lot of disiplin.they pretty much have them set up to were not much skill is needed unless you get the kits and customise the components,again geting into more money. but to me I like it as a hobby to keep me occupied.there are threads on 4 different boards,I have read allmost all of them,PG and a Couple more guys are on all of them So I would say they get the credit or blame for this here thing.

it is what it isnothing more nothing less,but one thing you cant deny is that they do sound damn good.I hope to get good enough at these to move on to a 300 watt class AB,yea they have those also in diy,as with any type of Diy it is about self satisfaction and saving a buck or two.

 

[natger]

Not exactly the same but I have an integrated that uses the 50ASX2 icepower board. A quick search yields that one can buy it for $99. So may it costs the manufacturer $50?

You are not buying it from manufacturer, so it is shipped to a reseller that then will roughly double the price selling the part, I would guess, unless it is surplus maybe.

 

[J English]

Thinking of having a blue board build next (probably with SirByrd, he does nice enclosures) - what would be the best way would be to approach volume attenuation? I have a passive pre but have read some negative comments here about going that route?

 

[phalanger]

I just hooked up my 3116 to a pair of old Mordaunt Shorts, after a quick multimeter measurement. It works well. Its kinda hard to really judge its performance at this point because the Epos speakers I have at home are so much better (even though these Mordaunts were my primary speakers for many years and I never held it against them). Also, instead of a preamp I've just connected my phone to the input (HTC One, beats 'enhancement' disabled).

First impression before first plugging in my phone was a soft but very noticable (even by my girlfriend, unasked!) background noise. But this seems to have entirely disappeared now. Maybe it was because the cable was dangling in the air instead of being connected, or maybe it was because it was its first run. Probably the first, its easy to forget that without a volume attenuator, it's running at maximum volume all the time (as a poweramp should). So source cable noise will also be amplified maximally when no preamp is present.

Impression with music: quite good, no real mishaps except it lacks punch, its a little flat sounding, as I would expect when not using a preamplifier.

I will try it on my Epos Epic 5's and with a nice preamp and proper hifi source later this week, For now I'm very happy that it seems to work well, and that the sound quality is quite promising, especially considering it has to work with a smartphone, mediocre speakers and no preamp, it already shows some potential.

 

[Jadran]

I just hooked up my 3116 to a pair of old Mordaunt Shorts,....

Which model/version: blue, red, green?

 

[phalanger]

Which model/version: blue, red, green?

Black board with blue components:

 

[Jadran]

Oh right :thmbsp: totally forgot your post on page 80

So it runs now on 12V/6A PSU?

 

[prighello]

I notice a lot of people aren't using a volume pot or power switch. Any reason for this? Am most planning to use preamps?

 

[phalanger]

Oh right :thmbsp: totally forgot your post on page 80

So it runs now on 12V/6A PSU?

Yep. It works just fine although I may try a higher voltage sometime to see if there is any difference. Can't wait to try this thing in my primary system and see how it compares to the HK3490 which is currently doing the poweramp duty.

I notice a lot of people aren't using a volume pot or power switch. Any reason for this? Am most planning to use preamps?

I know I am.

 

[natger]

Some people have reported some "burn-in/setling" improvements with blue/black boards.

12v6a PSU is enough for me too. How loud can you play with mobile phone? I expect loud enough, 3116 doesn't need much. Maximum is 6V input btw, so your Marantz doesn't have to work hard.

You already explained the hiss you heared, the small package can make a lot of noise and needs some care, everything can be an antenna, but is without too much trouble less then the Marantz's or any reasonable priced component/system, my fathers Bang&Olufsen top of range Beolab speakers have more hiss/noise when automute isn't engaged, never tried to unplug them from preamp/source, but I guess best not try that with power on

Switching AC power is better then switching DC power, so that could be reason for not seeing too many switches?

 

[m_boone]

Very cool. Think that's the first one here in a clear box. Did you make or buy the case?

Thanks. I built it myself from spare plexiglass I had leftover from another hobby. I didn't have enough of one particular color so that's why I used clear and light blue transparent 1/8 inch sheets. The idea really came from the Little Bear 6N3 preamp. It sounds great by the way.

 

[cleonjr]

Thanks. I built it myself from spare plexiglass I had leftover from another hobby. I didn't have enough of one particular color so that's why I used clear and light blue transparent 1/8 inch sheets. The idea really came from the Little Bear 6N3 preamp. It sounds great by the way.

hey,May I ask What did you cut the Plexiglass with,for such a smooth cut.

 

[m_boone]

hey,May I ask What did you cut the Plexiglass with,for such a smooth cut.

I cut it with a band saw and then used a file and then sand paper to smooth it.

 

[cleonjr]

I cut it with a band saw and then used a file and then sand paper to smooth it.

ok makes sense,thanx

 

[lico]

I've run the 3116 and 3110 in my second system and have directly compared it to a Nuforce DDA-100, Wadia 151 and a NAD. The 3116 sounds competitive with any of them.

I'd say it's competitive with my Yamaha A-S500 if not better (which is generally highly regarded in the budget amp category). With a tube pre you get a little extra "warmth" over the "natural" sound of the Yammy.

 

[lico]

There was a mistake in TI datasheet concerning the connection between the stereo and mono subwoofer amp in 2.1 configuration. YJ red 2.1 copied TI datasheet and result is distorting mono subwoofer output. Did the other 2.1 amps copy TI datasheet as well? Or did they take a look at TI EVM too and discovered the mistake? Did they repair the mistake once discovered??? Next fun bit: Did TI correct datasheet? No, 6 months later they stll working on it ! So straight copies from TI datasheet still have a bad subwoofer performance!!!!

And what was the mistake?

 

[Alchimista]

What voltage do you suggest for TPA3116?

 

[lico]

What voltage do you suggest for TPA3116?

Depends on your "use case". My only experience is with 19V laptop bricks. They work well. The higher the voltage the more watts you will get. Most folks don't need a lot of wattage, lots of folks are quite happy with 12V supplies.

Anecdotal evidence... was playing with my dual mono PBTL amp (modified red boards) tonight using a 19V brick (10A) that powers both boards. Lots of questions around here thinking a laptop brick isn't good enough. Also posts about why anyone would ever want to run the 3116 in PBTL mode since the TPA is only rated for 2-3 ohm speakers in that mode. I'm currently testing a couple of different speaker pairs (low efficiency 86-87 dB each) to see what I like best, each pair is 6 ohms, and the TPA with the 19V supply will drive either set into distortion and not have any power issues.

Then I said what the heck, let's put them in parallel and dial the volume up. Good grief, the 3116s deliver when pushed to the limit. Heat sink hardly warm too... didn't run for a long duration but I will With higher efficiency speakers that what I have I can't imagine power supplies are even an issue.

 

[davidro]

So I've got the charger adapting plugs. None of them fit. Frustrated, I hammered in the fatty one. It got into the hole but the case cracked a little. Oh well. I wanted to see how it sounds anyway. But I can't seem to fit in the speaker cables into those square inputs. What do I do about them?

 

[phalanger]

So I've got the charger adapting plugs. None of them fit. Frustrated, I hammered in the fatty one. It got into the hole but the case cracked a little. Oh well. I wanted to see how it sounds anyway. But I can't seem to fit in the speaker cables into those square inputs. What do I do about them?

You sound pretty impatient, a dangerous trait when DIY'ing..
For the speaker cables, just use proper speaker connectors and wire those to the board.