TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

davidro · Jun 4, 2014

Ok I'm thinking perhaps I can use some copper coils connected into that abominably small hole and the other end soldered to banana plug posts?

lico · Jun 4, 2014

cleonjr said:
Hi Lico,Were are the instructions on the parellel wiring I am going to do PBTL too in the future .I will coppy the instructions and save.Thanx,found the data sheet,is there something a little easier to understand,Like with Pictures LOL no but for a simple layman like me.ok if you can tell me what INPL INNL OUTPR OUTNR mean I can figure the rest,I think.

MONO MODE (PBTL)
The TPA31xxD2 family can be connected in MONO mode enabling up to 100W output power. This is done by:
• Connect INPL and INNL directly to Ground (without capacitors) this sets the device in Mono mode during
power up.
• Connect OUTPR and OUTNR together for the positive speaker terminal and OUTNL and OUTPL together for
the negative terminal
• Analog input signal is applied to INPR and INNR

I added a single jumper to the red boards to do it (it's somewhere back in this thread). For a complete mod there is a post on DIY audio that has pictures. I would have followed it but didn't know about it at the time, and I tend to shoot first and ask questions later. I don't think the LCR output filters on these amps is that important, unless you worried about power efficiency or EMI snubbing. I'm not.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-68.html#post3715550

phalanger · Jun 5, 2014

davidro said:
Ok I'm thinking perhaps I can use some copper coils connected into that abominably small hole and the other end soldered to banana plug posts?

Using a shielded copper wire to connect the circuit board with your speakerposts is fine. Keep the wires short and as thick as the circuit board takes. It's fine that it's thinner than your actual speaker cable, just keep the length of it to a minimum. I used a short (10cm or so) piece of generic speaker cable for it. And then connect that to banana or other speaker cable posts. Make sure you use same length for left and right channel. See the pics of my build on or around page 80 of this thread for an example.

cleonjr · Jun 5, 2014

tim0 · Jun 5, 2014

Poultrygeist said:
The 3116 has better resolution than the Classe amp I had.

I can attest to that. The resolution is phenomenal. This is what I would recommend. Get yourself any one of the TPAs and pair it with a hybrid preamp like this

http://www.garage1217.com/garage1217_diy_tube_headphone_amplifiers_002.htm

I did; you will have a primo amp system for under $250,-!!!

phalanger · Jun 5, 2014

tim0 said:
I can attest to that. The resolution is phenomenal. This is what I would recommend. Get yourself any one of the TPAs and pair it with a hybrid preamp like this

http://www.garage1217.com/garage1217_diy_tube_headphone_amplifiers_002.htm

I did; you will have a primo amp system for under $250,-!!!

Good to hear! I have been looking at the hybrid amps by garage1217, they look very promising and function as high-quality headphone amps as well. And they look a lot better designed and built than the chinese ebay offerings. Although I will probably try atleast one of those as well. Have you had a chance to compare the Sunrise to one of the chinese 6n3 type preamps?

Poultrygeist · Jun 5, 2014

prighello said:
Thanks, but I'd rather just wire a toggle switch so there's something external on the chassis to turn it off and on. I'm sure this is real easy and I'm just missing it. My brain has been in a fog lately.

Maybe you can see how the toggle switch is wired in this picture.

The Radio Shack PS jack is mounted on the left rear side of the case.

I ran the + lead from the jack ( as shown on the Radio Shack package ) to a fuse holder and then to the lower toggle switch connection ( two pole toggle switch from Home Depot ) and from the top connection on the toggle to the + screw down on the board. The negative side of the PS jack is routed straight to the - screw down on the board.

phalanger · Jun 5, 2014

Poultrygeist said:
Maybe you can see how the toggle switch is wired in this picture.

The Radio Shack PS jack is mounted on the left rear side of the case.

I ran the + lead from the jack ( as shown on the Radio Shack package ) to a fuse holder and then to the lower toggle switch connection ( two pole toggle switch from Home Depot ) and from the top connection on the toggle to the + screw down on the board. The negative side of the PS jack is routed straight to the - screw down on the board.

Yeah that's how to do it. Though I'm not sure you really need a fuse in there, it's low voltage and the psu unit should already have overload protection built in. Any specific reason you put it in there?

prighello · Jun 5, 2014

Thanks that's how I thought it was to be done. I just got confused when I saw all the different switches with multiple poles and no directions.

If I put the board in a metal case do I need to isolate it or any of the connections to avoid shocking a user when touching the case?

Poultrygeist · Jun 5, 2014

Using a slow blow fuse with powered gear makes sense to me.

phalanger · Jun 5, 2014

prighello said:
Thanks that's how I thought it was to be done. I just got confused when I saw all the different switches with multiple poles and no directions.

If I put the board in a metal case do I need to isolate it or any of the connections to avoid shocking a user when touching the case?

Yeah if you use a metal case you need to isolate the board and all connectors from the chassis, not just for shock but also for avoiding short circuit/grounding/hum issues. Wooden and plastic cases are easier/quicker to do with less chance of problems for that reason. Though metal is fine (i like it) it just requires some extra care that you can skip with nonconductive materials.

rogerfederer · Jun 5, 2014

just picked up my green board at the post office. have a st120 i bought cheap at the AK-fest so will gut it and install the board. should be fun!

i may need some advice re the wiring...:yes:

davidro · Jun 5, 2014

phalanger said:
My TPA3116 board arrived a few days ago. Today I had a day off from work so I got some connectors and a project case at the local electronics shop and got busy!

Here are some pics. Unfortunately I left my multimeter at someone else's house and I only have my good speakers here, so I have not yet dared to connect it. I will probably testdrive it tomorrow and share my impressions.

Quick question: Would 12V/6A be a good power for this board or will it perform better @19V?

phalanger said:
Using a shielded copper wire to connect the circuit board with your speakerposts is fine. Keep the wires short and as thick as the circuit board takes. It's fine that it's thinner than your actual speaker cable, just keep the length of it to a minimum. I used a short (10cm or so) piece of generic speaker cable for it. And then connect that to banana or other speaker cable posts. Make sure you use same length for left and right channel. See the pics of my build on or around page 80 of this thread for an example.

Thanks mate that helps a lot :thmbsp:

Orthodynamic · Jun 5, 2014

tim0 said:
I can attest to that. The resolution is phenomenal. This is what I would recommend. Get yourself any one of the TPAs and pair it with a hybrid preamp like this

http://www.garage1217.com/garage1217_diy_tube_headphone_amplifiers_002.htm

I did; you will have a primo amp system for under $250,-!!!

I have the Project Sunrise II and will attest to the way it complements my YJ TPA3116. It adds a nice bit of tube-y warmth and soundstage without detracting from the strengths of the amp.

natger · Jun 6, 2014

When wiring the pcb, twisting the wires could improve noise. I don't mean twisting the power with signal or speaker wires, but both power together, both left speaker together, both right speaker together and if input signal wires are seperate those too.

Jadran · Jun 6, 2014

twisting the wires could improve noise

Twisted pairs do help reduce electrical interference, and noise, distortion.

Even better or best for internal wiring/rewiring is something like this;
Shielded Silver Teflon Wire Coax! I always use these kind of wires for my mods.

Jadran · Jun 6, 2014

rogerfederer said:
just picked up my green board at the post office. have a st120 i bought cheap at the AK-fest so will gut it and install the board. should be fun!

i may need some advice re the wiring...:yes:

You got it from that 'audiobah' right? How fast was the shipping? I paid mine on May,31. yet no confirmation of shipping, and no answer to my question when will they send it. don't like when they play like that :no:

cleonjr · Jun 6, 2014

Jadran said:
You got it from that 'audiobah' right? How fast was the shipping? I paid mine on May,31. yet no confirmation of shipping, and no answer to my question when will they send it. don't like when they play like that

It is just luck of the draw,I got one board in 4 days once and my last order I ordered on May 8th it showed no progress and Like you i Emailed took a week to respond,he said be patient sometimes takes a while.just showed up arived in NewYprk yesterday so maybe Mon. Or Tue. I will get it. that is why it is good to note the good sellers that want to please the customer,and let the others go,

to me Customer service is #1 I sell on the bay too and I take care of my customers,and I want the same curtousy when I buy too.

cleonjr · Jun 6, 2014

Any one ever thought of using a EQ in the preamp stage to balance the tones out to the room accoustics,I know this is a can of worms but I have not seen anything on the subject.hhmmm I was just looking not much on the DIY side,

cleonjr · Jun 6, 2014

My uncle has a SAE 180 parametric,he said hardly no use since he bought it,gonna mail it to me.He said it sould do what I whant plus more.

TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

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