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TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

After a casual search, I noticed two types of green boards, the audiobah version and one other, the second having far more components that project up above the actual board. The audiobah version claims to be the only board with "speaker protection", while the other boasts of name brand components. Can anyone comment on other differences, and if one is intrinsically better? Why, Poultrygeist, did you choose the audiobah version?
 
I just bought 2 of the 100Watt boards for 63 million yaun =$10.66 with shipping.lots of new boards or ones I have not seen on the site,O boy her we goo.
 
After a casual search, I noticed two types of green boards, the audiobah version and one other, the second having far more components that project up above the actual board. The audiobah version claims to be the only board with "speaker protection", while the other boasts of name brand components. Can anyone comment on other differences, and if one is intrinsically better? Why, Poultrygeist, did you choose the audiobah version?

What other green board has more components?
 
After a casual search, I noticed two types of green boards, the audiobah version and one other, the second having far more components that project up above the actual board. The audiobah version claims to be the only board with "speaker protection", while the other boasts of name brand components. Can anyone comment on other differences, and if one is intrinsically better? Why, Poultrygeist, did you choose the audiobah version?
He's already answered few pages back:
The guy that made the post regarding the green board being superior is a friend of mine. Quite an electronic whiz kid as well as a profession violinist.

He builds Aikido's, resells them and has done mods for me on other gear. He knows his stuff so if he says the green board is better I trust his judgement. He's the reason I bought the green board.
Here's post from the other forum about it
I just bought 2 of the 100Watt boards for 63 million yaun =$10.66 with shipping.lots of new boards or ones I have not seen on the site,O boy her we goo.

How? You do Chinese? :scratch2:
 
Audiobah green board is designed with 8 ohm speakers in mind, YJ blue/black board according to TI recommended 4 (to 8) ohm speakerload. Standard red YJ boards bought today have similar outputfilter as audiobah and is designed for 8 ohm load.

There is 1 review comparing red with green on diyaudio forum, conclusion was reviewer thought he liked red better. But all these boards cost next to nothing, not a big deal to buy all:)
 
After a casual search, I noticed two types of green boards, the audiobah version and one other, the second having far more components that project up above the actual board. The audiobah version claims to be the only board with "speaker protection", while the other boasts of name brand components. Can anyone comment on other differences, and if one is intrinsically better?
Actually there are more 'green' and all other colors and models. A lot info on DIY forum


407232d1395370097-tpa3116d2-amp-3116-140320b.jpg


The another one with 'speaker protection' or as they call it 'silent sleep design'
with a great price - http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free...50-W-with-Silent-Sleep-Design/1586764360.html
I wish I saw this one before ordering from the lazy and expensive 'a'bah', though
 
the silent sleep design is reached by component selection, not by transistor, in this overview both audiobah board and Chengzi2.0 board have transistor controlled mute-circuitry, which also is a jumpered option feature on the TI EVM original I believe
 
OK,were can I get the 1.0 board neither Hiamp or autobagh,has them listed.It seems that would be a hot seller 100 watt mono board,they are out there there is 3 on the chart.
 
Email the sellers and ask them befor they ship your order:) Both sellers you mention have delivered 1.0 amps befor, but it is for both these boards 4 or 5 solderjoints, both are fully prepared. If you only want to use them as 1.0 I am also sure Hiamplifier can sell you pcb's without the parts you won't be using in 1.0.

post crossed: Yes I think taking a break and not trying to do 7 amps at 1 time could be better:)
 
Email the sellers and ask them befor they ship your order:) Both sellers you mention have delivered 1.0 amps befor, but it is for both these boards 4 or 5 solderjoints, both are fully prepared. If you only want to use them as 1.0 I am also sure Hiamplifier can sell you pcb's without the parts you won't be using in 1.0.

post crossed: Yes I think taking a break and not trying to do 7 amps at 1 time could be better:)

yea I have emailed them,i just cant see buying a stereo board and turning it into mono if there is one already and a 3116@ 100 watts ,oh my.
 
Autobah replied back with this,Dear cleonjr,

"I have one tpa3116 based board that is mono but is still under development. This is a very cheap board, It costs $ 12,00. Size is .3.3x6cm. Minimum order of 4 pieces. Photo attached.

Regards - audiobah"
 
Audiobah green board is designed with 8 ohm speakers in mind, YJ blue/black board according to TI recommended 4 (to 8) ohm speakerload. Standard red YJ boards bought today have similar outputfilter as audiobah and is designed for 8 ohm load.

There is 1 review comparing red with green on diyaudio forum, conclusion was reviewer thought he liked red better. But all these boards cost next to nothing, not a big deal to buy all:)

Not exactly true but close enough on the output filters. I posted before how the red board has inductor sizes tuned for 6 ohm, you need bigger inductors for 8 ohms if you follow the TI docs. It's all a moot point anyway to me - the output filtering on these boards does not affect anything in the audible pass band, unless the filters cause peaking at 20 kHz, which nobody is going to hear anyway. I bet I could run these cards without any output filter and they would sound pretty much the same. Heck they might sound even better... if one is to worry about the quality of inductors on the card (impedance at different frequencies or DCR) then why not remove them. The DIY audio guys stress too much on things that for most don't matter IMO.
 
Lico you may have posted befor that 22uH with 680nF is an optimal 6ohm load filter for this amp, but you were mistaken then and repeat that mistake now. SLOA119A can refresh your memory, as many other documents.

The statement that it will not be audible might be true if you add some tube amp to reshape the frequency respons. An outputfilter used on these boards starts visably affecting frequencies from 2000hz and up when looking at a frequency respons curve and remember those are most often made with a constant resistor.

Will the 3116 be better without an outputfilter, yes. Ferritebeads have less problems, distortion is always lower, speakercords should be short however (<1.25 meter I believe) if longer they become antennas for transmitting radiowaves, that might disturb other electronics and several countries have rather strict laws about that. Skip the ferritebeads and you might have a very powerfull radiotransmitter:) And I almost forgot, some people have very sensitive tweeters that might not like 8A at 400khz:)
With a peaking filter that 8A peak current could be at filterfrequency, google TDA7498 Trevor Marshall to see that that does happen.

TI itself has a document about filterfree operation, with twisted 60cm speakercords with ferritebeads the tested 2watt amplifier produced 0.5 watt at chip operating frequency (~400khz), conclusion: your laptopspeaker is probably able to handle that. Isn't that nice, now use a 50 watt amp in this setup.....
 
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Lico you may have posted befor that 22uH with 680nF is an optimal 6ohm load filter for this amp, but you were mistaken then and repeat that mistake now. SLOA119A can refresh your memory, as many other documents.

The statement that it will not be audible might be true if you add some tube amp to reshape the frequency respons. An outputfilter used on these boards starts visably affecting frequencies from 2000hz and up when looking at a frequency respons curve and remember those are most often made with a constant resistor.

Will the 3116 be better without an outputfilter, yes. Ferritebeads have less problems, distortion is always lower, speakercords should be short however (<1.25 meter I believe) if longer they become antennas for transmitting radiowaves, that might disturb other electronics and several countries have rather strict laws about that. Skip the ferritebeads and you might have a very powerfull radiotransmitter:) And I almost forgot, some people have very sensitive tweeters that might not like 8A at 400khz:)
With a peaking filter that 8A peak current could be at filterfrequency, google TDA7498 Trevor Marshall to see that that does happen.

TI itself has a document about filterfree operation, with twisted 60cm speakercords with ferritebeads the tested 2watt amplifier produced 0.5 watt at chip operating frequency (~400khz), conclusion: your laptopspeaker is probably able to handle that. Isn't that nice, now use a 50 watt amp in this setup.....

Visible affects in a frequency response curve of any of the LCR output filters certainly isn't audible starting 2000 Hz. No way, no how. It's in the noise.

I was talking about at 20 kHz where typically you might get a couple of dB change if things aren't matched right. I can't hear 20 kHz and I am pretty sure you can't either. I'm pretty sure nobody on this forum can as well. Once again, in the noise.

Agree that running a TPA 3116 without any output filter might be a power hog at the switching frequency. I'll take your word on that TI document without posting a link.

But running a TPA 3116 even with mismatched output filters for a particular speaker impedance is still going to attenuate the switching frequency down where it doesn't matter much at all. It's negligible and worrying about inductor values is silly. Try spicing it up sometime and you'll see what I mean.

Oh... forgot to add I don't use laptop speakers. Filter free would make perfect sense for active monitors, no?
 
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