In my opinion it doesn't matter how original the surface is on the chassis as far as the need to replace the old components.The electrolytic caps in the power supply and elsewhere are most definitely bad.The bumblebee coupling caps are very likely leaky,and the selenium rectifier can fail at any time.I don't understand wanting to have all of the components original if the plan is to use the piece at or near its' full potential.
Dave
I'm right there with you. :thmbsp:
I'm not building this to collect or sell. It is for me and remember what I always say, "you are the only person who has to like your stereo". So to that end, I like the color look and I will replace every cap in the amp, along with the selenium rectifier. I will be running 7027A instead of the standard 6L6GC.
What was it you didn't like about the 7027A? I was looking to get more power out of the amp for some JBL C50 Olympus speakers, but if the 6L6GC sound better, I may have to rethink my choice.
I have tried Sylvania 7027A's, SED winged C's, RCA blk plates and GE's.
The GE 6l6GC is the best sounding of the bunch followed by the SED's to me.
Steve
Shhhh! If we keep talking up the superiority of the GE GCs over just about anything else on the planet, they're going to start outpacing the blackplate RCAs in price! Right now they're still fairly inexpensive...![]()
In a selfish way, I was regretting the GE comment.
I'm running some black plates in my 70 now. I've always thought them bass shy.
They irritate me like tele smooth plates. :sigh:
Steve
Cool! Where did you find those? Got a link?
These are DIY. The distance between GND & 8 ohm terminals is the same for speaker binding posts. I could have removed the barrier strips and mounted the posts direct to the chassis, but I didn't want to have all the extra holes visible. So, I cut the mounting posts shorter and soldered some solder tabs off some old speaker terminal cups to them.