Tell all - what was that?
It would have been a Sansui, so that's obvious.
GrisPato
Super Member
That's why I had to mention it
Also a testimony to your work. Although you know really well the difference between a simple recap or a restoration you are not trying to proof anything by doing unnecessary replacements and / or modifications.
Good to watch and learn from you!
Also a testimony to your work. Although you know really well the difference between a simple recap or a restoration you are not trying to proof anything by doing unnecessary replacements and / or modifications.
Good to watch and learn from you!
Sorry, can't do that, it's boxed up ready for return to its owner.
From my observations the mains transformers get the hottest, which is normal - but it takes about an hour from power on before they reach their hottest. The power supplies run cool, and the rest of the electronics only moderately hot - nowhere near 'too hot to touch', including the transformers.
JOMARK911
Super Member
Ok this is what i've experienced so far. Transformers get warm, but power supply and line amps get hotter , as time goes by.
Some heat sinks of the power transistors , on the psu and on the line amps , get hot to the touch after 2-3 hours of operation.
That's why i use 3 120 mm fans on top to gently suck the heat from underneath .
Also on my amp most heat is coming from the left side of the grills .
Some heat sinks of the power transistors , on the psu and on the line amps , get hot to the touch after 2-3 hours of operation.
That's why i use 3 120 mm fans on top to gently suck the heat from underneath .
Also on my amp most heat is coming from the left side of the grills .
Yeah, I know that I’ve been fooled like that before.The angle of the picture conceals that fact that there is a convincing fillet of solder behind each pin, the problem is the solder hasn't 'taken' (perhaps due to oxidisation on the pins when originally assembled). This would have fooled a final assembly inspector at the factory as that is all he could see - the top edge of that board, but as you say, it should never have got that far.
Only one pin of that connector is used and is a ground connection to the Protection Board via a 10,000pF capacitor.
Soldering that looks good from one angle, but then later, while doing something else on the unit, you happen to catch sight, and see that you need to revisit.
I like to go for a slightly fatter than normal solder joint on the older Sansui gear.
I think it helps to prevent issues, when these heavy units aren’t eased into position, or when you get a bit of flexing.
Cheap insurance!
Plus, the board design is such that it lends itself to nice solder joints, since the pads are so generous.
Not like the 60 mil pads in today’s electronics.
John, I notice that you seem to garner a lot of work on the high end stuff.
Indicates to me that folks over there really trust you.
Kudos!
Rick
Thank you, it can feel like I'm the only one over here who can do this stuff, so maybe it's 'Hobson's Choice'
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MP984
Member
As one of the UK buyers of the higher end Sansuis, including this C2301 (and the B2301L which is covered in one of Hyperion's earlier threads), I can only say that it isn't Hobson's Choice. You want the best working on amps like this ....... which is what Hyperion is.
I’m kind of trying to parlay my electronics experience into a little restoration business here.Thank you, it can feel like I'm the only one over here who can do this stuff, so maybe it's 'Hobsons Choice'
I enjoy the work immensely, both the bench work and the documentation.
I think that I eventually want to reproduce Sansui boards for a whole unit, just for my own use.
I know that some might think this is heresy, but it would be very satisfying, for me, to be able to have a bit of me inside my own Sansui!
I think that you’re right, too!
I have tremendous respect for John, and several others here.
After my experiences in the field, mostly in industrial electronics, I’ve learned that the guys who know theory, but who can also handle a soldering iron properly, and are willing to share that knowledge, are the guys that have my respect and attention.
Thank you to all those who have commented or 'liked' posts in this thread.
Thanks especially to Rick @bubhardy for his praise, and last but by no means least, the owner of the C-2301 Mark @MP984 for his kind words and also for being so trusting of me, and patiently waiting for me to complete the restoration of this wonderful piece.
Thanks especially to Rick @bubhardy for his praise, and last but by no means least, the owner of the C-2301 Mark @MP984 for his kind words and also for being so trusting of me, and patiently waiting for me to complete the restoration of this wonderful piece.
MP984
Member
Having taken delivery of the C2301 from Hyperion on Wednesday, I thought I'd say a few words. As ever I'd like to highly commend Hyperion for his usual extremely diligent work on this preamp. It's a pleasure to have him involved in these things.
The B2301 which Hyperion overhauled a few months ago has been hooked up to the Pre Out of an Octave V110SE KT150 valve integrated. Slotting in the C2301 in its place revealed a few things when running my usual repertoire of test tracks. Soundstaging and imaging are both excellent. And the bass response ....... phenomenal. It's not artificially exaggerated, but when the music calls for it then it can hit so hard you feel it in your chest. Certainly at the slightly antisocial volumes I tend to listen at.
I will say that it seems to be highly revealing of any upstream deficiencies. For the first time I became aware of a bit of 'digitis' when listening to some of the flac files on my laptop. A bit of treble glare and hardness. After a bit of trawling around the various hi fi forums I became aware of the Fidelizer software. I've been playing around with the trial version, using both Music Bee and Audirvana, and I've been so impressed that I've spent the $69 on the full Pro version. It has successfully removed the glare without any downsides that I can hear (and I do A-B-A-B test these things fairly relentlessly).
I've also listened to vinyl, and the phono stage is also excellent. My turntable has an Ortofon MC cart and is connected to an Ortofon ST80 SE SUT. I've used this with the MM setting on the preamp. I did take the ST80 out of the chain, and use the MC Trans High setting: to my ears there seemed to be a touch more surface noise. But I'm not fully sure about that, and quite possibly I could leave the ST80 permanently out of the equation, and be very happy with the sound. I'm going to spend more time on that.
Anyway, the Octave is shortly to be part exchanged for some new speakers.
The B2301 which Hyperion overhauled a few months ago has been hooked up to the Pre Out of an Octave V110SE KT150 valve integrated. Slotting in the C2301 in its place revealed a few things when running my usual repertoire of test tracks. Soundstaging and imaging are both excellent. And the bass response ....... phenomenal. It's not artificially exaggerated, but when the music calls for it then it can hit so hard you feel it in your chest. Certainly at the slightly antisocial volumes I tend to listen at.
I will say that it seems to be highly revealing of any upstream deficiencies. For the first time I became aware of a bit of 'digitis' when listening to some of the flac files on my laptop. A bit of treble glare and hardness. After a bit of trawling around the various hi fi forums I became aware of the Fidelizer software. I've been playing around with the trial version, using both Music Bee and Audirvana, and I've been so impressed that I've spent the $69 on the full Pro version. It has successfully removed the glare without any downsides that I can hear (and I do A-B-A-B test these things fairly relentlessly).
I've also listened to vinyl, and the phono stage is also excellent. My turntable has an Ortofon MC cart and is connected to an Ortofon ST80 SE SUT. I've used this with the MM setting on the preamp. I did take the ST80 out of the chain, and use the MC Trans High setting: to my ears there seemed to be a touch more surface noise. But I'm not fully sure about that, and quite possibly I could leave the ST80 permanently out of the equation, and be very happy with the sound. I'm going to spend more time on that.
Anyway, the Octave is shortly to be part exchanged for some new speakers.
JOMARK911
Super Member
I like that you liked it. John's work , and your combo set.
Actually , this set sets new standards on music repro even , so many years later ,, for a lot of people. I am one of them . Since 2013.
At first i bought B2301 , from Germany , on 2012. Then some months , or even a year later i got C2301. I had to wait , for some time.
In the mean time pre amp's duties were done by AU-X911DG. modified to pre out the signal after the vol pot.
It was a very good combo.
When C2301 arrived and hooked up , i could not stop my ear to ear stupid smile.
This set is just unbeleivable.
Imagine for a moment what i get by having , an active cross (cd10) after the c2301 and after it a B2301 for bass , a B2302 for mid, and the AU-X911DG for treble , driving the CORAL units i own.
Divine.
Actually , this set sets new standards on music repro even , so many years later ,, for a lot of people. I am one of them . Since 2013.
At first i bought B2301 , from Germany , on 2012. Then some months , or even a year later i got C2301. I had to wait , for some time.
In the mean time pre amp's duties were done by AU-X911DG. modified to pre out the signal after the vol pot.
It was a very good combo.
When C2301 arrived and hooked up , i could not stop my ear to ear stupid smile.
This set is just unbeleivable.
Imagine for a moment what i get by having , an active cross (cd10) after the c2301 and after it a B2301 for bass , a B2302 for mid, and the AU-X911DG for treble , driving the CORAL units i own.
Divine.
