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Yamaha CR-2040 Clean Up

Two things,

Great that you show the unit all lit up. Gear just doesn't impress sitting all dark and such and many do that.

and where are the close up that show the parts from the first post all cleaned up? Missing an opportunity for us to be happy with your clean up skills.
 
Nope, I'm in California. The USD price is like $130. For 100 Elna Audio, Nichicon KZ, FG, Wima or Würth Elektronik parts that price doesn't sound too bad, to me anyway. But I would like to know a little more about them first.

I've always put together my own BOM too, but I've never tackled a job this big before. I was searching the web to see if anyone else had done, and documented, a CR-2040 recap, and stumbled on these guys. I have no idea how legitimate they might be, and I probably won't use them. I have the service manual (from HFE) but it doesn't include a parts list, so I'm looking for any help I can find.

Thanks,
Rick
 
Recently did a full refresh of an 820, deep cleaning, recap, lights and other parts, restring and polishing the rear silver bits. Came out great. Paul was very happy. You are part way there with that cleaning looks nice. I believe you can get the caps from our regular sources for less than that kit cost. Plus you will learn more about the unit.
 
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Enjoy.

I purchased one years ago when they were cheap.

Fiddle with the tone and loudness buttons.

For some reason turning to the left instead of right will increase the treble.

They have great phono stages..
 
Getting ready to recap this CR-2040, and have questions...
I'm starting with the Pre Drive / Power Drive boards, mainly because they look like the most accessible, and I think I may get the most bang for the buck. After that I'll move on to the Equalizer board, the Tone Control board and then the Phono Section. Does this make sense? I'm saving the Phono section for last because it looks like it might be part of the Tuner board which I don't want to mess with, or it might be on the Equalizer board, which will be fairly simple if I can get it away from the Tuner board.

Another question is which caps do I use? I like Nichicon, but KZ, ES, EP, FG, PW, KG, UKL? How do I choose, which do I choose, is there one type that I can use just about everywhere? The first boards I'm recapping, the Pre Driv / Power Drive boards, have all low values, 1 and 3.3 uF at 100V or less. It looks like some Nichicon series don't include low values,so which series?

Also, I'm not finding any replacement for the fusible resistors. The board has Micron FN19151J marked near the part, and the schematic shows values of 41mA 150 ohm. Any suggestion on how to find this part, or for a good replacement for it?

Final question (for this post). All the board to board wiring in this receiver is wire wrap with solder over it. Is there any way to disconnect the boards without cutting the wires? What do other AKers with this type of connection?

PreDrivePowerDrive-A.jpg PreDrivePowerDrive-B.jpg

Thanks,
Rick
 
One last question tonight. Does anyone know how to safely remove the linkages between the three front panel selector knobs and the board mounted slide switches?

Thanks,
Rick

SelectorLinkage.jpg
 
rickknight said:
Does anyone know how to safely remove the linkages between the three front panel selector knobs and the board mounted slide switches?
Click to expand...
Yes. Carefully pry up on the white piece with the curved pry tab. They will unsnap from the metal switch housing.
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Still looking for a source for the fusible resistors. I've only been able to one source for them with a current rating, and the smallest one was 500mA, I need 41mA.

Thanks Avionic for the tip on the linkages. So all I need to do is get a small flat screwdriver under the upward curved part and pry? Almost sounds too easy.

Still wondering what caps to go with. I'm thinking Nichicon, but what series, KZ, ES, EP, FG, PW, KG, UKL? Or should I go with Panasonic, again what series?

Meant to post these PDFs last night, but had to shrink them some. Schematic diagram and layout for the Pre Drive / Power Drive board...
 

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rickknight said:
Still looking for a source for the fusible resistors. I've only been able to one source for them with a current rating, and the smallest one was 500mA, I need 41mA.

Thanks Avionic for the tip on the linkages. So all I need to do is get a small flat screwdriver under the upward curved part and pry? Almost sounds too easy.

Still wondering what caps to go with. I'm thinking Nichicon, but what series, KZ, ES, EP, FG, PW, KG, UKL? Or should I go with Panasonic, again what series?

Meant to post these PDFs last night, but had to shrink them some. Schematic diagram and layout for the Pre Drive / Power Drive board...
Click to expand...
Nichicon VZ and PW are my go-to's, Panasonic FC/FM are also great but more expensive. It's your call - there is no wrong call. Everyone uses their own blend.
You should probably use 105 rated caps however.
 
Hey everyone, I've been away from this project for almost 2 years, but I'm back at it now and want to get it finished. However, I've run into a snag. All of the interconnects in this receiver are wire wrap connections, so I decided to get a wire wrap tool so that I can unwrap, and then rewrap the connections to each board. The unwrap part works great, but it turns out the wire Yamaha uses inside this unit is like a soldered speaker wire, and it doesn't rewrap well at all. Now I'm looking for an alternative. I don't really want to use solder so I'm looking for some sort of header pin connector. I thought the connectors like the ones used in computers might work, but they're too small. does anyone have a suggestion for what to use to reconnect these wires. By the way, the pins measure 1.00 mm, see the photo below.

Thanks,
Rick
 

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