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Yamaha M4/C4

Replaced my burned out lamps with incandescent on M4 I like the original look. Ordered them thru dwojo who I think is an AK member.
 
just a crappy pic (camera wouldn't get everything right so the pic is noisy) showing the colors of the incandescent in left lamp and white 10V leds in the other two. Dave (avionic) will know exactly how close any of these are.

C-4 lights.jpg
 
Put green leds in the two right buttons for a richer color. I grind down the top of the led so it is flat and diffuses the light better. When left round, you get a hot spot like in your photo above. I've had my C4/M4 combo for about a year now. Love them, but they require maintenance to keep them singing.
 
just a crappy pic (camera wouldn't get everything right so the pic is noisy) showing the colors of the incandescent in left lamp and white 10V leds in the other two. Dave (avionic) will know exactly how close any of these are.

View attachment 805329
About as close as your going to get with LED. For the orange I use and amber LED.Whites don't work well with the yellow filter.
 
I've done a lot of trial and error on LED upgrades on several M-4, C-4 and M-2's and think I found the perfect LED and resistor combination to match the original colors.

For the orange one I use a 5 mm 120 degree orange LED (400 mcd and 1,26 lm) with a resistor of 470 Ohms in series. The yellow socket doesn't need to be intact.

For the green ones I use a 5 mm 140 degree warm white (800 mcd) with a resistor of 620 Ohms in series. This with the green sockets intact.

I will try to make pictures, but the color in the pictures is always off.

I've done comparison between one unit with bulbs and another with LED's.
 
if the led is too brite U an always turn them down with a larger value R, such as 470 to 1k or more.
it should adjust the color itensity/shade to anyones likeing.
Just a thought.
 
Orange has a little "hot spot" . No biggie. But what if the green grommets are history ?......
 
Yeah that hotspot is visible in the picture, but actually not in real life. I'm currently doing some tests with green leds, because the sockets are very often turned into dust. The green ones I have are too bright with 620 Ohms, but the color is great. Ordered some bigger resistors. I'll come back with the results later.
 
For the orange one I use a 5 mm 120 degree orange LED (400 mcd and 1,26 lm) with a resistor of 470 Ohms in series. The yellow socket doesn't need to be intact.

For the green ones I use a 5 mm 140 degree warm white (800 mcd) with a resistor of 620 Ohms in series. This with the green sockets intact.

What brand/reference have you used for those leds? thank you.
 
What brand/reference have you used for those leds? thank you.

For the warm white I use this: click

And for the orange one I use an unbranded one from a local Dutch webshop, but I'm currently testing these amber ones from the same manufacturer as the warm white: click, but it's too bright even with 620 ohms, so I need to up the resistance.
 
Got my C4/M4 yesterday.
found the C4 heatsinks.
the TO-220s are screwed to the heatsinks.
Have not yet determined if they are glued to PC bd.
Next step will find out and do the work to clean and re grease.
Then check all TPs for correct readings. Adjust if needed.

heatsinks are screwed to the PC bd so must pull the to220s to do the job.
No worries.
 
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Ah, hot reg prob fixed. cleaned, new HS grease.
Only get warm to the toucch.

How much disassembly needed to replace the power Lite?
Looks like a real bear.
 
new inc. replacements are $10 plus shipping for 3.
gotta think on that.
I can go either way.
I like leds tho so we'll see.

I've bought a box of 10 for like $3, just have to build a larger order to make the shipping nearly invisible.
 
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