• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Yamaha newbie A-700 resto thread

1000009055.jpg
So is there anywhere on the boards I can drill holes to put more WIMAs in?

I just listened to it for two hours straight and it didn't even break a sweat. The phono section is working too, but my Darlington Labs MM6B blows it out of the water so I quickly switched back. Glad I finally won the fight against this thing.
 
Wowzers...congrats!
:beerchug:
Thanks man. I appreciate you sticking around the whole time and encouraging me, and for helping out with all the advice. It was dicey for a bit but we are almost to the finish line...
Like I said earlier... Just paint the top cover red and call it a Wimaha. Maybe fabricate some red square bottom feet.

I'd put the cover on and haul ass quick!
I got something on the way, stay tuned lol. I was actually thinking about top cover painting. The Kenwood I got has some rust spots. Any suggestions on what paint to use or methods?
 
1000009106.jpg
I just listened in Class A mode for a while with my headphones. The difference is very subtle but I can tell, with the cans anyway. Boy did those heatsinks get HOT. I measured 60°C... How hot is too hot?

I unironically might use this thing as a headphone amp at work.... My DT770s have NEVER sounded this good. Might flirt with getting some nicer dropping resistors for the headphones. One thing at a time, though. I still got more work to do first...

Here's a before pic again for reference...

20240224_175052.jpg

And after...

20240330_014654.jpg
To do list:
  • MT-200 Mica insulators avionic recommended... Although the sil-pads seem to be doing very well I still want to get them
  • New bias trim pots
  • Transformer top foam
  • Make dummy load, just to have, but also to set Class A switching per service manual
Tinman is about to sell me a scope too, so it's been an exciting night. Thank you again to everyone who watched, laughed at my red rectangles, offered advice and some tough love encouragement when I got bummed out about blowing the damn thing up, and for helping guide me through the process. Shout-outs to @Soundscape, @avionic, and @Nashou66. Thanks fellas. @eiraved haven't seen ya in here in a minute, pinging you to let you know it's alive now lol

Extra special thanks again to @Bratwurst7s for graciously gifting me the unobtanium outputs... Glad I didn't blow them up (yet).

I'm going to be chasing this high for the rest of my life, aren't I?
 
Thanks man. I appreciate you sticking around the whole time and encouraging me, and for helping out with all the advice. It was dicey for a bit but we are almost to the finish line...

I got something on the way, stay tuned lol. I was actually thinking about top cover painting. The Kenwood I got has some rust spots. Any suggestions on what paint to use or methods?
Paint the transformer red...It'll look like a big humming Wima.
 
I have never bought any NTE parts but I question that they are actually as bad as their AK reputation.

I still need to put some of those KTA/KTC parts on the bench and see how many amps they can take before they blow up. Have to do it when Wife is at work so she doesn't see me use one of her glass bowls as a containment barrier.

James
 
I've noticed a commonality over the years from dudes fixing blown up amps, including myself:
1. The output trannies & brown resistors get replaced
2. Couple pages later, oops I missed an open emitter resistor cuz it wasn't visibly fried
3. Aw **** it still won't bias right
4. 5 pages later after a bunch of testing & shotgun replacements later we find...
5. A bad diode farm toward the front end

Just observations & not to pick on anyone
 
I've noticed a commonality over the years from dudes fixing blown up amps, including myself:
1. The output trannies & brown resistors get replaced
2. Couple pages later, oops I missed an open emitter resistor cuz it wasn't visibly fried
3. Aw **** it still won't bias right
4. 5 pages later after a bunch of testing & shotgun replacements later we find...
5. A bad diode farm toward the front end

Just observations & not to pick on anyone
I know that "repair it first" is a good rule for a reason. I often have a difficult time doing that because my electronic theory skills and being able to understand a circuit are still quite limited.

When, as is often the case, my initial theory proves to be wrong, and the second, and the third, more and more it seems like that is the time to simply stop.
And ask for help, and use the time to try to learn more.
But it gets really tough to just sit there and wait, especially since a lot of people just don't have the time to help all of us. I get impatient.

But I also know that at some point I am going to have to re-solder every damn part in the unit.
So I have a tendency to choose a section and one at a time remove each part, test it, document the result, and either replace it (carbon film resistor, diode, zener diode) or re-install it.
Move on to the next section...repeat. I test and document every single part and measurement, including new parts. Adding dates to the notes helps, especially when I re-measure something at a later date.

I make a couple of copies of the schematic and highlight the good parts in green, bad parts in pink on one. Another copy of the schematic has every shown voltage highlighted in yellow and every measurement is recorded in a notepad and also written directly on the schematic.

Some of this is probably not a good practice, especially the getting impatient part. Some of it has proven to be useful.
I need to learn how to use the damn oscilloscope.

Also just observations, and self critique. Load, lock and fire away...
James
 
I get impatient.

But I also know that at some point I am going to have to re-solder every damn part in the unit.
So I have a tendency to choose a section and one at a time remove each part, test it, document the result, and either replace it (carbon film resistor, diode, zener diode) or re-install it.
Move on to the next section...repeat. I test and document every single part and measurement, including new parts. Adding dates to the notes helps, especially when I re-measure something at a later date.

I make a couple of copies of the schematic and highlight the good parts in green, bad parts in pink on one. Another copy of the schematic has every shown voltage highlighted in yellow and every measurement is recorded in a notepad and also written directly on the schematic.

Also just observations, and self critique. Load, lock and fire away...
James
I get impatient too. Most days my mind is going 10000mph so I like to try and get things done faster when I'm focusing on them. Slowing down is something I've had to be mindful of my entire life, a constant struggle.

Sometimes I get ahead of myself and mess up, sometimes it pays off. I think we saw examples of both throughout this thread. Lol.

I like the idea of writing everything down. I'm going to start doing that. I kind of like taking everything off of the board if it's not going to be crazy to put back together. You can clean it so well when it's naked. On the power amp boards on my Kenwood, I took after someone else here that I saw and printed the board diagrams out and stuck the parts through the paper to keep track of where they go. It was really helpful and the boards got so much cleaner after:

1000008836.jpg

In summary...Good thead & good times. Captain Wima fixed his hog. I feel like high school buddies on graduation day parting ways toward the corporate whoredom known as life.
:beerchug:
Except we get to relive it again if someone has another thread or starts a new one... Get to work on that 1020 :whip: LOL



I'm in love with the Yamaha sound. I've literally been listening to this A-700 all day. It's really been put through its paces, glad to see my work is holding up so far.

I'm gonna start exploring Yamaha more now. Did they ever make an integrated with true dual mono transformers and power supplies?
 
Last edited:
Look at the Yamaha A-1 . I have a bunch, I kinda collect them. Not dual mono transformers but hey have 2 used in I believe parallel . Cant remember exactly but
they have a super great Phono Section and sound awesome. Very heavy as well.
A lite hard to work on with respect to disassembly .


The two beefy transformers are connected in parallel to cancel their respective leakage flux and the two big 18,000µF Nichicon caps are bypassed with two 2,2µF metallized mylar film caps.

3316b2dce41bd14b6e863ebc39d53248.jpg

A favorite of mine.

Nashou
 
Back
Top Bottom