Even though that tester says it can test parts in circuit , Its best to at least lift one leg and test again just to be sure. As a matter of sanity, I would test all those small Lytics with one leg lifted to be sure.This cap is no good.
Athanasios
Even though that tester says it can test parts in circuit , Its best to at least lift one leg and test again just to be sure. As a matter of sanity, I would test all those small Lytics with one leg lifted to be sure.This cap is no good.
So power goes to power amp "only".R219,220 - one leg disconnected,
Instability possibly caused by the DBT cycling. Those voltages are not excessive, the low voltage side should be about +1.2V. Q24 looks okVdc on R178 is not stable. It constantly changes. I noticed it going from 1.6 to 2.5 on one side and 0.4 to 1.7 on the other.
Hold on that, R178 voltages look kinda ok.To test the Q24 and Q26 I need to pull them from the board. Should I do that?
Did you mean VR8 and VR9 pre-set potentiometers B 2.2k?Just wanted to recommend turning VR9 & VR10 all the way down while isolating this. The idle current adjustment.
Yep they are the VR's for bias, need to set to minimum resistance between wiper and other not connected leg. I don't think you will get sensible results if you use the bias test points.Did you mean VR8 and VR9 pre-set potentiometers B 2.2k?

One click. DBT off, no flashing.pull the 5Pin connector on the main(7) board then dbt power up. Expect one relay click, dbt to flash then dim.
One click, DBT bright then off. Cycles on that until powered off.reconnect 5P connector on MAIN(7) then lift one leg of R230 and R231 also on MAIN(7)
DBT power up, note if bulb remain bright also any second relay click