I fumbled a D220 TI while handling it attached to leads and now it's dead. Apparently when I dropped it the lead pulled the terminal lug. There's zero slack in the lead from the lug internally to the VC and when the lug moved the internal lead snapped. Sheared off where I can't even see the end of it. I'l lprobably tack solder the break and keep this for a 'spare' diaphragm. I don't usually break things. I'm surprised that a pro audio piece wasn't designed with a little tolerance for mishandling. I've seen pro drivers that were really hammered up and still worked.
The same thing happened to me. I couldn't see the end of the lead under the silver ring on the diaphragm, but I managed to push the other end of the lead back to the spot where it broke and using a meter to tell when the two were making contact I glued them together with some super glue. This actually worked for a couple months until I started to messing with them again and last week I replaced the Diaphragm with a new one.
The first person who heard my ULA ewave 'protos' called me over and over until I sold them to him to use as monitors.
The ewave just works for me in my listening environment. It's a 900sf room that's 36' wide. I move around here a lot, and speakers with high directionality, no matter how 'accurate', just sound wrong and unbalanced through most of the area. Wide dispersion waveguides may have some downsides, but they excel at providing good balance across a large area. I'll sacrifice some straight ahead technical performance (though not much compromise is necessary in this case) for a speaker that's compatible with a residential living space. That's a feature that's not easily derived from specs and measurements.
I have a LOT of speakers in and out of here to listen to, including some costly and exotic ones. The bottom line is that I have some kind of ewave rig running 70% of the time because it sounds good to me.
I'm definitely open to following an upgrade path for better performance in the future though.
You wouldn't believe the stuff we stumble across. Barons, Viscount, Harkness, Valencia, Madera, Bolero, Seville, 604s, 605s, etc. All kinds of Wharfedales, Bozaks, EVs by the carload. JBLs get noticed because they're a current brand but who wants a pair of old 15" Altec coaxials in 6 cu ft cabinets in their house?
Besides us, of course.
Russell, maybe I missed something here, but why can't you replicate/purchase Wayne's Pi 4 crossover? Need the L-Pad?
DIY is approx. $200 in parts from PE. Wayne's are $250 a pair.
I fumbled a D220 TI while handling it attached to leads and now it's dead. Apparently when I dropped it the lead pulled the terminal lug. There's zero slack in the lead from the lug internally to the VC and when the lug moved the internal lead snapped. Sheared off where I can't even see the end of it. I'l lprobably tack solder the break and keep this for a 'spare' diaphragm. I don't usually break things. I'm surprised that a pro audio piece wasn't designed with a little tolerance for mishandling. I've seen pro drivers that were really hammered up and still worked.
I've repaired a lot of open tweeter leads but this is a lost cause. can't even see the buried end and it's sandwiched between aluminum. I have 4 D220Ti here and 2 D210 Ti so I'm not mono. I'll just order replacement 'fragms with my next PE order.
Good lord you get some good diving around there! I never find crap. Once I found a neat little stereo from western auto, two wooden boxes, one with a turn table in it that has about 6 different speeds, and a big receiver with a little tube amp in it. That's it.
russellc
The same thing happened to me. I couldn't see the end of the lead under the silver ring on the diaphragm, but I managed to push the other end of the lead back to the spot where it broke and using a meter to tell when the two were making contact I glued them together with some super glue. This actually worked for a couple months until I started to messing with them again and last week I replaced the Diaphragm with a new one.
Well, its only a 40 dollar piece, I guess some corners have to be cut somewhere! Fortunately, new diaphragms are only 12 buck or so! somewhere in this thread someone, maybe Zilch or Skywave had to replace a diaphragm, and if I remember correctly, they can mount 4 different "orientations" and they are likely to play better one way than the other. That's really been a ways back, way back.
russellc
:scratch2:And Ijust got a call from my garage sale pal that he bought large Advents with boxes and packing for $20. Gotta go pick that up and see.
Did it require any tweaking or repositioning to get the same response?
Russellc
I do wish there were a pair of econowaves with DE250s and sussed out crossovers on hand to show their real potential.
And Ijust got a call from my garage sale pal that he bought large Advents with boxes and packing for $20. Gotta go pick that up and see. I already have 3 pairs here, but what the hell.
I came home from work today and someone - I think I know who - had dropped off a nice Technics SA-500 rcvr. by my garage. 55 WPC. Seems to work. That's typical. I'm buried under '70s - 80s SS rcvrs.
I think I'll plug some headphones into that & see if the FM works.
And Ijust got a call from my garage sale pal that he bought large Advents with boxes and packing for $20. Gotta go pick that up and see. I already have 3 pairs here, but what the hell.
*EDIT*
NLAs in boxes for $20. Gotta love garage sale season.
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The leads are connected to the diaphragm and have to go through openings on the cover on the back of the driver so they will only go in one way. The only way to adjust it is turn it 180% unless you start turning the back cover to each position of the screws. Do you really think it would make a difference?