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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

GordonW said:
Speaking of Advent...

There's one Advent I would LOVE to see someone E-wave... the Advent 2. The one with the double-dihedral mounted twin cone tweeters. Those were always disappointments, IMHO. The small E-wave flare (6x6) in those could make a huge difference, I'd think!

Regards,
Gordon.
Click to expand...

I always look for Advents. They're easy to work with, a known quantity, typically have decent performance and respond well to mods. I'm most familiar with the Larges, New and Original, and with teh Smaller, which I like more than most people.
I'll be on the lookout for a local pair of 2s to fool with.

I've considered doing a temporary '.5 Stacked' Econowave Advent setup. I'd use a pair of Utilities on the bottom with a large choke driving the woofer below 50 hz or so. This sounds like overkill but my room is 900 sf and very dead. It sucks up bass like Shamwow mops water off a car hood. Every bit of cone area helps.
 
GordonW said:
Speaking of Advent...

There's one Advent I would LOVE to see someone E-wave... the Advent 2. The one with the double-dihedral mounted twin cone tweeters. Those were always disappointments, IMHO. The small E-wave flare (6x6) in those could make a huge difference, I'd think!

Regards,
Gordon.
Click to expand...

I have a pair of 2W and they stink on ice stock. I've been seriously thinking of doing them with the kit I have here or letting someone else have a whack at them since they are useless as anything but utility check-out speaks as-is.
 
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Unfortunately, I don't think anyone is going to get up to defend an Advent 2. The woofer is OK (a lot like a Small Advent woofer), but the tweeters, well, "stink on ice"...

We know how to fix that, though... :thmbsp:

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Test fitting the 10 buck Aztec's

The cab's came back to life so I started to ewave them. It looks like they had a port cut in the front but then covered it up? The woofers are CTS I think (137-705 on the back) I have no info on them at all. The cab's were nicely made but the rest looks like it was done with old plywood and a jigsaw. Must have been a couple of first ones made. (#12 and 27) I picked up some black grill cloth to finish them off.
 

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They certainly fit in there, Roy. :thmbsp:

Be sure to use foam tape to seal the rear panel well.... :yes:
 
Hi Zilch, how much is the db(value) for the <95db econowave xover using R1 - 30 ohms, R2 -16ohms?

and for the >95db xover how much is the db(value) when using R1 -16 ohm, R2 - 25ohms ?
 
Thank you Zilch, I see in the second post by Wayne - "You'll understand why I like to have the loudspeaker equivalent of four-bolt-mains on the crossovers."

Im not sure what Wayne means by four bolt mains on crossovers. Can you or Wayne explain a bit more on this one with the loudspeaker.
 
Altec Model Three speakers for ewaving?

I have a pair of unrestored Altec Model Three speakers here in nice condition. They have very heavy cabinets and look well made. I wonder if these are a good candidate for ewaving but I can't find out anything about them. The 10" woofer looks like an ordinary stamped basket Alnico.
Anybody familiar with them?

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jrock7 said:
Thank you Zilch, I see in the second post by Wayne - "You'll understand why I like to have the loudspeaker equivalent of four-bolt-mains on the crossovers."

Im not sure what Wayne means by four bolt mains on crossovers. Can you or Wayne explain a bit more on this one with the loudspeaker.
Click to expand...

Wayne builds his crossovers and such in what many home stereo users would call
"over build" especially on the resistors used. He will connect 4 resistors in order to quadruple the watt rating. many of these systems here and definately Waynes, are using very efficient drivers and are easily capable for uses like PA or SR where insane volumes may be encountered. Here, the 40 watt rating is called for and necessary. In home use, most crossover call for around 10 watts. My E'waves use a 15 inch JBL driver and of course the highly efficient compression driver, and if I blast it louder than is way past reasonable, I can just feel the zobel resistor beginning to warm, the ones on the board are ever so slightly warm, and this is WAY loud.

Now if you take them into a setting where the typical listening room isnt there to contain the sound, e.g. outside or in a large club, you will use much higher volumes, and being High efficiency speakers they still sound very good as you increase volume. This is where Waynes 4 bolt mains build description comes from. I dont believe its actually called "4 bolt mains", I think that was just a descriptor of Waynes build quality. Its not a bad idea, but it does take 4 times as many resistors. If you think you may encounter this type of use, I would do it! Wayne does know his stuff.

The term 4 bolt mains, refers to hot rodders preference for the 4 bolt main( usually small block Chevy) instead of the standard 2 bolt main block. The 4 bolt main had main bearing caps held with 4 bolts, the 2 bolt only had 2. Thus, the 4 bolt main block was much stouter for racing use. For drag racing, in the day I figured I would build the 2 bolt main as there was a lot less drag on the engine ( I figured) and just being blasted down the strip didnt test the durability like road racing, and if it did blow, the blocks were cheap....but I digress...



hope this helps

Russellc
 
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jrock7 said:
Thank you Zilch, I see in the second post by Wayne - "You'll understand why I like to have the loudspeaker equivalent of four-bolt-mains on the crossovers."

Im not sure what Wayne means by four bolt mains on crossovers. Can you or Wayne explain a bit more on this one with the loudspeaker.
Click to expand...
Wayne's systems are sometimes used in sound reinforcement, and he quadruples the wattage of R1, R2, and the Zobel resistor he also uses in his designs, also discussed about the same point in this thread.

Doubling the resistors is easily accomplished with the existing E'Wave crossover board designs. If more than that is required in certain applications, I would argue in favor of using high-power resistors with a heat sink on the outside of the cabinet....
 
Coming to an Ewave near me soon....

I've been very, very bad................:naughty:


Russellc
 

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Bauhausler said:
I have a pair of unrestored Altec Model Three speakers here in nice condition. They have very heavy cabinets and look well made. I wonder if these are a good candidate for ewaving but I can't find out anything about them. The 10" woofer looks like an ordinary stamped basket Alnico.
Click to expand...
With that much HF real estate available, I'd be considering 18-Sound XT1086 elliptical, 10.3125" x 8.5". If the woofer sucks, there are plenty of 10" options. :yes:

Russellc said:
I've been very, very bad................:naughty:
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Nice JOB Russell!

I've never built a charge-coupled E'Wave. We'll all be interested in reading your review of the benefits.... :thmbsp:
 
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Bauhausler said:
I have a pair of unrestored Altec Model Three speakers here in nice condition. They have very heavy cabinets and look well made. I wonder if these are a good candidate for ewaving but I can't find out anything about them. The 10" woofer looks like an ordinary stamped basket Alnico.
Anybody familiar with them?

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Is that actual wood veneer? it looks like it is, and in very good shape as well. Have never seen one before.

Russellc
 
Zilch said:
With that much HF real estate available, I'd be considering 18-Sound XT1086 elliptical, 10.3125" x 8.5". If the woofer sucks, there are plenty of 10" options. :yes:

Nice JOB Russell!

I've never built a charge-coupled E'Wave. We'll all be interested in reading your review of the benefits.... :thmbsp:
Click to expand...

I did it once before and it kind of generated a "one side of the fence or the other" sort of deal. I think the differences I noted, like many commented on at the time, are subtle and subjective. I found a brief period of fuzzyness, which soon cleared, resulting in what I perceived as more clarity and detail, along with a decrease in hf fuzz. It seemed to clear up the 220 ti in this regard, and again, in my opinion. For those that dont agree, this is fine. Like I said last time, the standard crossover kicks ass as is.

Russellc
 
Holy cow, I wasn't sure what to expect with the Cerwin Vega 123-W 12" speaker to JBL 2226H 15" speaker upgrade. But I do know I wasn't expecting so much more clarity! I thought Bobby McFerrin was in my room a few minutes ago. These JBL are incredible speakers!!!!

My JBL 4507 enclosure "clone". I created them from an old sub box. The dimensions aren't the same, but the ports & interior volume are identical.
The box is freakin UGLY. :yes:
But it was only a few hours of work to do this. Just a temporary solution I hope. I've got a few other projects to work out and then I'll build something that looks a lot better. Maybe the scoop as I originally wanted.

Damn, these are good midrange/woofers!

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One project is to get rid of these cables. That is rigid fiberglass in the background.
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Since it'll be awhile till I can build the nicer enclosures, I plan to put some cheap vinyl veneer on these next weekend.
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Btw, I haven't done extended listening. But according to REW, the CV's have a tad more bottom end.

Cerwin Vega 123-W 12" in factory 211-R enclosure below:
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JBL 2226H 15" in JBL 4507 DIY'd-clone enclosure (all ports open) below:
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